Here’s the latest muslin:
I’m not quite sure how to interpret the wrinkles in the back – I think they’re happening because the coat isn’t cut to go over the butt, but I’m not sure how to make the coat gracefully larger at the hips.
I’m not convinced that this is much more flattering than the two previous coats, but I think I’ve accepted that, after being bundled up into a sweater and then a coat, I’m going to look like a shapeless bundle more or less no matter what I do. And the panel construction will show off the lines of the coat MUCH better than the princess style would.
Finally, here is an absurdly bad Photoshop sketch of my vision for the coat:
Collar, cuffs, and buttons in black suede (or Ultrasuede). (If I can pull off covered buttons in something as heavy as suede – otherwise a matte black button). Talk about drama! But I love it.
I toyed with the idea of black welt pockets but decided that horizontal and diagonal welts both distracted from the vertical stripes. I’m still thinking about vertical welt pockets, but (for the sake of simplicity) might just put the pocket in the seam.
And now, off to bed! Tomorrow I have promised myself I will not do ANY sewing OR work at all – I GOTTA PACK!!!!
The panel construction is much more flattering than the flared design. Matte black buttons would look great. In-seam pockets are a good solution. As you mentioned there are still some fitting problems to be worked out. It is difficult to make suggestions via photographs, but this is what I see:
The shoulder seam should be brought forward. This should help make the sleeves hang better.
The front darts should be lowered to be in line with your bust. You may need to make the darts deeper so that the front hangs without pulling up.
Add width to the back side panels so that the coat hangs without wrinkles. If my memory is any good, a coat should have at least 5-6 inches of ease in the body.
Janet
Janet suggestions are excellent, but I think you should remember that the actual coat will look much better cause that fabric will hang so much better than the muslin. But work on the fit until it’s great, you don’t want to make a bad fitting coat with your gorgeous fabric.
I don’t have sewing expertise to offer you, but I did go back and look at the pictures of the older muslins. I do think this current style is generally more flattering….and hopefully other comments will help get the fit perfect.
I love the Photoshopped view of the coat!! It’s going to look fantastic!
Good luck with packing and moving!!! (And of course, with sewing!)
Sue
Listen to Janet and Frida. The difference is absolutely amazing even in the horrible stark white and the horrible muslin fabric. One question: are you fitting this over the clothes you will be wearing under it? Dressmakers always ask that their clients wear what they are going to wear under the dress/coat they are making, down to the shoes and bras. Makes a difference.
Ditto what everybody else says. Make sure the muslin is a perfect fit before you cut into your amazing cloth. I have far too many ill-fitting handwoven garments that make me weep each time I glance at them. That’s why I stick with squares and rectangles.
Janet has the right suggestions, and it does look like you need a little deeper dart in front- the hem seems to be pulled up from the lack of room in the bust.
Love the Photoshopping- the coat will look terrific!
Your design is looking better and better and the fabric is lovely. Consider adding a wide black belt just above the waist. That will create more shape.
If you want to consider a new design – think about a bodice/skirt empire style. The skirt could be A-line or if you prefer to continue with the straight lines make it straight but wider than the bodice and ease it in. It is surprising how many inches of wool you can ease in with a steam iron. Or gather it slightly – which seems to be the current style.
Hope you move goes smoothly and congratulations on your new home.
Stephanie