I’m still experimenting way too much to show off all I’ve been doing, but here are two images that I think are worth posting:
The two photos show the front and the back of the fabric (which, as you may recall, is woven in two layers). This is using Bonnie Inouye’s technique of designing doubleweave on a parallel threading. One layer is threaded on shafts 1-12 and the other on shafts 13-24. You then alternate layers in the threading. This looks complex in the threading and treadling, but has the advantage of a pretty simple tie-up. The southwest quadrant of the tie-up controls the pattern in layer 1, the NE quadrant the pattern in layer 2. The NW and SE quadrants control how the layers interchange. In particular, if top left and bottom right are inverse of each other, you get “clean” interchanging between the layers; if they are not reverses of each other, the layers blend into a single layer. That isn’t necessarily bad, but you need to know how to use it.
Here’s the other interesting draft:
In this particular case, I altered the draft for the SW and NE quadrants to be a plainweave cross set against a 6-end broken twill background. When combined with the cross in NW and SE, this results in plainweave crosses on both sides, set against a 6-end broken twill background. The top section of treadling is (I think) for a tubular weave, with the two weft colors following each other around in a circle; the second section of treadling is (I think) correct for two separate layers. I must confess to being somewhat fuzzy about exactly how that works, though. That’s what I’m weaving samples for!
I’m a bit puzzled about sett. Handwoven’s Master Yarn Chart says that for 10/2 cotton, 20 ends per inch is a lacey sett, 24 is a plainweave sett, and 28 for twills. I had planned to sett it at 24 epi per layer with the intention of doing mostly twills, but now I’m thinking about taking the sett down to 20 per layer (so a total sett of 40 epi for both layers) even though that would technically be way too loose for twills. Any thoughts about what would be an appropriate sett for a mix of plainweave and twill, with some interchange between layers?
Off to bed! Today was exhausting (4+ hours of meetings/training at work), and my brain is fried. I’ll be able to think better in the morning. I hope, anyway!
Nancy Lea says
Hey, Ms Bride-to-be, which software are you using for that?
Personally, I am having a “knitting fit.” This happens from time-to-time.
I keep grabbing people by the scruff of the neck (VIRTUAL scruffs) and dragging them to look at your wedding outfit. That is just amazing! It does bring “fond” memories of helping my cousin bead her lace! Her dress was covered with lace similar to yours ALL OVER and decided to bead it ALL OVER, sort of at the last minute, so sisters and cousins were drafted to bead. It was fun, though, since ’twas a group effort!
Stephanie S says
Consider the purpose of the cloth when contemplating the sett. I usually weave wearables, scarves, wraps, clothing, so I generally prefer a slightly warp dominant sett for the drape. Placemats might benefit from a wider sett.
With doubleweave you could sett one layer at 10 or 20 epi and the other at 10. Which might make sleying a bit complicated but the 24 epi layer would prevent the 10 epi layer from “packing in” too much thread. I prefer not to weave with two shuttles, but my last few projects have been doubleweave and two or 3 shuttles. One of the wefts I used was much finer and the heavier weft on the other layer kept the finer weft where I wanted it . I was actually weaving two picks of the thicker yarn on one layer and one pick of the finer yarn on the other layer. It also made for slightly easier weaving!
It all depends on the look you want. Certainly if what you want is an even cloth with a crisp pattern, (and I suspect that is the look for that draft) you will want to set all threads the same and have the same ppi. Hey, consider one layer 10/2 and one layer 5/2 and do 2 picks of the 10/2/and one pick of the 5/2… anything to avoid the dreaded pick and pick weaving.
Best wishes – have fun!
Stephanie S says
oops the first line of the second paragraph should read ‘you could sett one layer at 20 or 24 epi’ and the other at 10.
Bonnie Inouye says
I would combine structures in another way. Use the SW and NE quadrants to determine the structure in the upper and lower layers of cloth. It generally works best if the structure repeats in the number of shafts used. With 12 or 16 or 24 shafts, you can make a 4-shaft twill or broken twill or basket weave in the green layer and plain weave in the purple layer. Let the other two quadrants determine the amount and shape of the design created by exchanging layers. Bonnie
Teena Tuenge says
I have woven a lot of double weave in two layers of 10/2 cotton and find a sett of 40 overall works well.
I usually sett each layer of double weave fabrics slightly wider than “normal” plain weave whatever the yarn I am using. 5/2 cotton, I sett at 30 overall.
I love double weave and hope that you have lots of fun.