Tien Chiu

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You are here: Home / All blog posts / Piecing
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August 6, 2012 by Tien Chiu

Piecing

I finished the outside shell of the Celtic Braid Coat yesterday, and decided I didn’t like it.  The silk noil is black, all right, but not the deep black of the suede.  So, placed next to each other, the noil looks like it’s charcoal, not black, and just doesn’t play well:

two blacks - "black" silk and blacker suede
two blacks – “black” silk and blacker suede

So I’ve decided to do the entire vest in leather.  Do I have enough?  Not enough to do four solid panels, but enough to do two solid back panels, plus a lot of scraps that I am cutting up to make the side panels.

Now, if you’re going to piece a panel, you may as well make it look intentional.  So I am putting a “braid” pattern into the leather on the side panels:

pieced side panel - pattern piece
pieced side panel – pattern piece

And here is what it will look like in leather:

pieced side panel - in leather
pieced side panel – in leather

The pieces will be smaller, of course (the cut pieces include a 3/8″ seam allowance), and the piping will go between all the pieces, to emphasize the braid pattern.  (If you got it, flaunt it!)

I’m actually on the fence about the piping.  I love the look, but am afraid that it will interfere with flattening the leather seam and also add too much bulk to the side seams.  I’ll probably sew up a small sample to see if it works.

One of the reasons I selected this particular pattern – aside from its fitting well into the theme – is that there are no places where multiple seamlines meet.  I had considered a chevron pattern, but with two seams meeting at the tip, it would have been nightmarish in thick black leather.

Anyway, I’m in the process of cutting out the leather, and will start sewing it up tonight.  I’m thinking I may temporarily revert to the Bernette – the Bernina 830 makes a little grindy/rattly noise when it starts up that is worrisome.  I think I will take it to the shop for tuning.

I have also scheduled two dye play days!  One with Sharon next Sunday, and another with a coworker the following weekend.  That should allow me to make a dent in the two dozen items (plus yardage) I have to dye.

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Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, sewing Tagged With: celtic braid coat

Previous post: Why Phoenix Rising?
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