Tien Chiu

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November 27, 2011 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

An orgy of surface design

While browsing through the other offerings at Quilt University, I came across a very intriguing class: the Mermaid Lagoon Jacket.  It’s basically a tour through surface design techniques in the guise of creating a jacket with mermaids on it.  The class description says:

Get out all of your silk ribbons, pearls, fancy  threads, beads, batiks, and fish fetishes.  Create your own Mermaid  Lagoon Jacket!  As you create this lovely jacket, Linda Schmidt will teach you reverse machine appliqué, couching, silk ribbon embroidery, beading, fabric painting, machine embroidery on dissolving substances, and how to create small people in fabric.  Illustration shows close up of yoke.  All aboard for Mermaid Lagoon!

The supply list has other pictures and provides a tempting view into the tools and techniques we’ll be using.  It is quite extensive, but I already have most of the items on the list.  I am tempted to make my own fabrics for this jacket.  With handweaving, low water immersion dyeing and dye painting techniques, not to mention Thermofax screens, fabric paint, and batik, oh my! – the possibilities are endless.

Of course, my time is finite.  Very finite.  Especially since I will (in theory at least) be going full tilt on Autumn Splendor and the other quilting design class at the same time.  So I don’t know if I’ll have time to finish the class in conjunction with the other stuff, but it was only $36 to register so I’ve signed up in hopes of having Autumn Splendor done – or at least photographable – by then.  The embellishment techniques in this class would probably be great for Autumn Splendor, but oh well: you can’t have everything.

Which leads me back to Autumn Splendor and timing.  The deadline for entry for the Convergence Fashion Show is February 15, which means I need to have at least the outer shell done by then (so the photographs for my entry will reflect the finished work).  Obviously it would be best to have the entire thing done, but with only two and a half months to perfect the fit, finish weaving the fabric, and do any embellishments, not to mention all the fiddly couture finishing techniques, that’s a pretty tall order.  Especially for a jacket that involves lapels, which can be awesomely time-consuming.

The second deadline is the Conference of Northern California Handweavers, which takes place in April.  I am, fortunately, quite confident of having Autumn Splendor completed for that one (it will not be nearly as fiddly as the wedding-dress).  But I am starting to look over my shoulder at the clock.  I will probably set up some target milestones this week to keep myself on track.

Filed Under: All blog posts, surface design, textiles Tagged With: autumn splendor

November 23, 2011 by Tien Chiu 2 Comments

Experiment: water-soluble pencils on fabric

One of the blogs I read is “…And Then We Set It On Fire”, a blog dedicated to exploring different techniques in surface design.  The interesting part about this blog is  that it is NOT done by experts!  Instead, it is written by fiber artists who are experimenting with new techniques.  I enjoy reading about their explorations and thoughts on the possibilities of this medium.

At any rate, they had one month dedicated to surface design using fugitive media.  The basic idea is that you take a medium  that is water-soluble (or at least not water-repelling), do your design on the fabric, and then silkscreen on some acrylic medium to bind the pigments to the paper.  It apparently works pretty well but does stiffen the fabric somewhat due to the presence of the acrylic medium.  It may have limited use for me because I prefer flowing fabrics – but I want to play with it to see just how much stiffening happens.

Anyway, in a burst of enthusiasm a few years back, I went out and bought some water-soluble pencils.  I just picked up a set of Inktense water-soluble ink pencils, and I plan to try out both of those plus plain graphite pencils on fabric.  I have four sheets of silk fabric (taped to backing boards) with me as well as a notebook of drawing paper; that ought to keep me more than busy enough for five days, especially since I will spend most of the time visiting with relatives!

(The difference between Inktense and regular watercolor pencils is that the Inktense ones dissolve into ink – they only flow once, the first time you wet them.  Regular watercolor pencils will flow every time they get wet.  I plan to experiment with both types of pencil, to get an idea of how they behave.)

I think this would be interesting to try with pastels as well, and since I have a set of very nice pastels (see previous notes on “burst of enthusiasm”!), I may play around with them as well – AFTER I get back.  Pastels are fun, but the dust gets absolutely everywhere!  Not good when you are schlepping your work 3000+ miles before fixing it.

Off to play!  I have another hour or so before I need to wake up B. (so we can get ready for our trip), which is plenty of time to do a couple of experimental sketches.

Filed Under: All blog posts, surface design, textiles

May 29, 2011 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Next sample

Yesterday I spent catching up on sleep.  I’ve been pretty stressed out the last week about a Major Life Decision coming up – unfortunately I don’t have enough data to make that decision yet, but it should resolve by the end of next week.  I hope.

Anyway, I have not been completely idle: I knitted two more blanks (will dye them today), wove another sample, made some leaf stencils, mixed up some burnout paste, and made another burnout sample:

attempt at stabilizing mesh, pre devore
attempt at stabilizing mesh, pre devore

I feel that the mesh as it stands is not stable enough to work in a garment; if you snagged it just once, the whole thing would fall askew.  So I have been testing out ways to stabilize it.  Trying to stitch after burnout turned out a mess; even using two layers of wash-out stabilizer, one on top and one on bottom, the mesh still distorted.  It didn’t help that I was using clear monofilament machine embroidery thread, which stretches, pulls out, and does all sorts of untoward things when sewn over delicate fabric.  So I switched to the gold embroidery thread, and stitched two sections: one with a diagonal grid and one with a semirandom, vaguely diagonal grid.  This is what you see above.

Here is the same sample post burnout:

stabilized mesh, post devore
stabilized mesh, post devore

Both sides are quite stable and much less subject to snagging; the diagonal mesh is more stable than the semirandom one.  I think having straight lines and more intersections adds stability.

The downside is that this method of stabilizing requires a LOT of sewing, and I feel that the diagonal lines look very rigid.  I think that, if I have to use diagonal lines, I will embroider over the grid with some thicker gold thread in swoopy gusts (think autumn winds) before burnout, in an effort to reduce the visual impact of the grid.

Off to the farmer’s market!  Later today I will dye my knitted blanks, so I can get back to weaving tomorrow.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, surface design, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor, devore

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