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February 21, 2010 by Tien Chiu

Lava Flow

The Handwoven Magazine “Not Just for Socks” reader challenge inspired this shawl, a collapse weave in two different sock yarns.  I was rummaging through my stash of sock yarns for the contest, and found some Cascade Fixation, an elastic sock yarn with a crinkled appearance that reminded me of cooled lava.  This, in turn, brought to mind my trip to Hawaii and the beautiful rivulets of fire in the lava flows there.  So I set out to recreate the beauty of flowing lava, fiery ruffles against crinkly black stone, flecked with fire:

"Lava Flow" handwoven shawl, collapse weave
“Lava Flow” handwoven shawl, collapse weave in sock yarn
"Lava Flow" handwoven shawl, collapse weave
“Lava Flow” handwoven shawl, collapse weave, closeup

I scrunch-dyed some Knitpicks Bare sock yarn in various shades of flame (red, orange, gold, bright yellow), and warped it in stripes, alternating with 1″ sections of  a black elastic sock yarn, Cascade Fixation.  I warped the two yarns separately, with the Knitpicks Bare going onto my sectional warp beam, and the Cascade Fixation wound into chains, with each chain weighted separately.

I then wove several samples with different weft yarns:

samples for handwoven collapse weave shawl
Samples for “Lava Flow”

After considerable hemming and hawing, I decided that while I didn’t like the gold metallic on its own, it might add pizazz to one of the two other options.  I paired it with the multicolored red-orange-yellow weft (bottom right), and loved the results so much I decided to weave up the entire shawl using 1 strand of gold metallic and 1 strand of variegated red-orange-yellow 30/2 silk.

For this shawl, because of the collapse, I used a very open sett and beat, setting both warp yarns at 8 epi and weaving at about 6 picks per inch.  (Normal sett for a balanced tabby weave is 10-12 epi in most sock yarns.)  It worked beautifully – the open sett/beat gave room for the elastic yarn to “do its thing”, and I got about 50% shrinkage and beautiful orange ruffles!

Filed Under: All blog posts, Creative works, Fiber Arts, finished, textiles, weaving, Weaving Tagged With: collapse weave

October 15, 2009 by Tien Chiu

Ikat socks

These are really cool. (No, really.) The colored stripes and moire patterns in these socks are achieved using very precise skeining and dyeing techniques. I’m quite pleased with myself for coming up with the idea, and you should really check out the full-size pictures, which look even more (!) interesting than this photo. Each “stripe”, you see, is actually two different colors…it looks a bit like a pointillist painting. I call them my Monet socks.

This is a pretty trick done with carefully space-dyed (handpainted) yarn. I call them “ikat socks” because they look a bit like ikat (warp-painted) fabric.

[Show as slideshow]
Socks

Here is one pair of finished socks, which show some of the effects you can get with this method: spirals, vertical stripes, and a moire effect.

These socks also have color variations within the stripe: each vertical stripe is made up of two colors alternating, one each row.

Dyed Skein

The socks are actually pretty simple. First, you calculate the exact length of a row, by swatching the main body of the sock (knit in the round to make sure the gauge is correct). Then, if you wind a skein the exact length of a row, and space-dye it, the colors will line up as you're knitting, giving you a more-or-less vertical stripe.

For these socks, I used a variation: I wound a skein the exact length of TWO rows, so the first six colors are knitted in the first row, the other six colors are knitted in the second row. So there are six colors that "stack" on one another, every other row.

In this photo, the red on the far left stacks on the purple on the far right, the left-hand yellow stacks on the right-hand orange, the left-hand blue stacks on the green in center, and so on around the skein. This skein gives a total of six stripes: red-purple, yellow-orange, blue-green, red-orange, yellow-green, and blue-purple, in that order.

If this skein were one row in length, the colors would come out in exactly the same sequence as on the skein.


S Spiral

If you wind the skein with exactly even tension, and knit the sock with exactly even tension, just as was done on your swatch, you get vertical stripes, as in the center of this photo. However, this is pretty rare and takes a fairly experienced knitter. It's also less interesting.

When the color repeat and the row length differ by one or two stitches, as in the bottom of the swatch, you get a slowly drifting spiral with a lot more visual interest than plain verticals.

F Spiral If the stitch length is "off" by multiple stitches (2-3 stitches around the sock), then you get a fast spiral, moving around the sock quickly, and narrowing the stripes. (Notice how thin the yellow and red stripes look towards the far right.)

Static

If the stitch length is too far "off", the colors don't stack properly and you get colored static, not stripes. Here, in the center of the sock, the extra stitches for the gusset disrupt the pattern. It doesn't take much to do it, either--being even four or five stitches "off" will do it.

If you start getting static, try increasing or decreasing a few stitches--I found I had to "fudge" the stitch count to get the stripes to line up.

Back and Forth

This was interesting: I think I must have wound parts of the skein at different tensions. The stripes start out moving to the right of the sock (top of the photo), then drift leftward (bottom of photo). A rightward drift means the color repeats are just a little shorter than the length of a single row; a leftward drift means the color repeat is just a little longer than the length of a single row.

I actually changed the stitch count a couple times on each sock, to give the stripes more variation. (I stuck the increases/decreases into the back of the sock, so they don't show.)


Stitch Finally, a look at different stitch effects. The left side is stockinette stitch, the right is 1x1 ribbing. I personally like the stockinette better--it gives a smoother effect--but of course ribbing is stretchier. Since I made these socks out of a not-terribly-stretchy silk-wool blend, I used 1x1 ribbing for the main body.
Socks Again

Anyway, I hope this has convinced you that space-dyed yarns can be interesting, especially in socks...I hope to knit up a couple more examples, but I really like these rainbow socks.

This trick also works with sweaters, but you'll get static anywhere you have shaping. It might be interesting to combine horizontal stripes (using different colored yarns) in the shaped sections with "ikat" stripes in the unshaped sections...if you try it, send me a photo!



Filed Under: Creative works, Fiber Arts, finished, Knitting

October 15, 2009 by Tien Chiu

Spiral Shawl

I started this shawl in June, 2003, shortly before AIDS Lifecycle 2.

I had just finished my travel shawl, a blue silk shawl handspun on a drop spindle as I roamed around Southeast Asia on a quasi-pilgrimage, letting go of my past life and considering what came next. I knitted the travel shawl in a counterclockwise spiral as I wandered–which, in Wicca, means letting go, undoing.

On my return, I needed a new project, so I decided to make a companion piece–a clockwise spiral that would help build my new life, the things I most valued.

So, I began the spiral shawl.

[Show as slideshow]
Full Shawl

This is my own design. The finished shawl is 68" across, and is a "ring shawl"--fine enough to be drawn through a woman's wedding ring. It contains about 2300 yards of 2-ply yarn,...

The yarn is 50% bombyx silk and 50% merino wool, from a commercially prepared top I bought at my local fiber shop, The Golden Fleece. It measures 40-50 wpi and 8500 yards per pound (500+ yards per ounce!). That's about the thickness of a pin, or a thin sewing needle.

The complete shawl, from design to completion, took 15 months and 350-400 hours of work. (!)

Finished Spindles Closeup ...handspun on one of the silver spindles from my travels.

Segment

I knitted this shawl to celebrate a return to daily life, after returning from my travels/pilgrimage, and knitted into it the things I felt were essential to a good life. It's a "prayer shawl".

It is a circle, a spiral in eight segments, with eight patterns in each segment. (On the left is shown one full segment.)

In Buddhism, eight represents the Eightfold Path; in Wicca, it represents the Wheel of the Year, the cycle of the seasons as they pass. So the eight-by-eight motif is, as they say, "an auspicious number".

Four Elements Here are the first four patterns in each segment (leaf, star pattern, flames, ripples).They represent earth, air, fire, and water--the four Elements in balance. In Wicca, the elements symbolize not just the physical world, but also the mental and spiritual worlds. So if earth, air, fire, and water elements are all in balance, the world is as it should be--mind, body, and spirit.

Light Dark

The next two patterns represent light (plain stockinette stitch) and darkness (openwork star pattern). In Wicca, light and dark are not oppositional, but complementary: they follow each other in a cycle, day after day, year after year. Sometimes one is greater, sometimes lesser, but both are always present. The complete victory of one or the other would destroy all life.

So this section is partially about balancing the light and dark in our lives--remembering that joy and sorrow follow one another --but also about remembering that there is dark and light in all of us. To deny the darkness is to destroy the light. So one must accept that there is darkness--and light--in everyone. That prevents us from ever seeing another being as entirely evil (or entirely good). Light and dark, in balance.

Action The next-to-last pattern, which is a bit harder to see, is an AIDS ribbon, representing "right action". This is not simply activism--though it does include many kinds of activism--but more about "doing the right thing". First and foremost, it's about acting with compassion. Sometimes that means speaking out, and sometimes it means keeping your mouth shut. The essence of it is to act (in a balanced way) to help others and improve the world--not just sometimes but always, even when people drive you crazy.

Compassion The final segment is a heart, symbolizing compassion--the beginning and end of all things.
Center

Getting metaphorical, the spiral shawl represents an inwards journey to enlightenment: the four elements in balance, then recognizing the balance between light and dark (good and evil, sorrow and joy). These are all external. The two internal values are action--the bridge between the outer and the inner--and then, finally, at the very end, the center--compassion. That we come to the center at the end, on the edge of the shawl, closes the Wheel of Life, beginning the cycle anew.

I spent a lot of time meditating on the components and values of "a good life" during the 15 months and 350+ hours I worked on the shawl....It is indeed a "prayer shawl", in every sense. I hope you've enjoyed the tour.


Center Closeup

The very beginning of the shawl...back where we started. I'm starting a new design tomorrow.

(It never stops, does it?)

Pattern Credits:

Earth: “Drooping Elm Leaf”, from Barbara Walker’s A Treasury of Knitting Patterns
Air: “Quatrefoil Eyelets”, ibid
Fire: “Chinese Lace”, from Barbara Walker’s Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns
Water: Adapted from Suzanne Lewis’s Knitting Lace
Light: plain stockinette stitch
Darkness: “Starlight Lace”, from Barbara Walker’s Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns

“Right Action” and “Compassion” are original to the author, as is the overall shawl design.
Shawl design, images, and text all © Tien Chiu, 2004.

Filed Under: Creative works, Fiber Arts, finished, Knitting

September 2, 2009 by Tien Chiu

Ocean Sunset II

before-wet-finishing

This was a variation on the Ocean Sunset shawl, except that I made it with a knitted blank!

Knitted blanks are an interesting concept taught to me by Nancy Roberts of Machine Knitting to Dye For.  You knit up a rectangular piece of fabric, dye it, and then unravel it and reuse the yarn.  Using this technique you can get gradual color changes WITHOUT having  to dye a zillion skeins, and you can get other effects as well (see the “Crazy Colors” shawl for an example).  In this case, I dyed a single blank a gradual change from yellow to red and back again to see what would happen when I wove it up!

I am of mixed minds about this shawl.  I don’t like the boldness of the lines near the bottom of the shawl, but I like the idea of the gradual color change.  I think I may try this idea again, but with a simpler pattern.

[Show as slideshow]
The pattern for Ocean Sunset II The pattern for Ocean Sunset II.
The wound warp for the Ocean Sunset II shawl The warp on the loom. Doesn't it look pretty?

Knitted blank for Ocean Sunset II This is the knitted blank. Notice how it shades gradually from gold to red.
Bobbins wound from knitted blank It's hard to see in the photo, but the bobbins gradually change color from start to finish. Beautiful!

View of the Ocean Sunset II shawl before wet-finishing The completed shawl before wet-finishing.

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: blue to fuchsia warp, gradient colors, knitted blank, network drafting

September 2, 2009 by Tien Chiu

black jewel

Closeup of the center pattern for Black Jewel

This shawl, which is one of my favorites, is woven on a 2/28 nm silk warp dyed in 29 colors, with a black cashmere yarn of about the same weight as weft.  The colors are so close to each other that visually they are almost indistinguishable, producing a very nice gradual fade from turquoise to fuchsia and back again.

This kind of gradual color change has been so successful that I am embarking on a new adventure: dyeing a full color wheel in 60/2 silk, in gradually changing colors!  I estimate that it will take about 120 skeins to get all the way around the color wheel, but fortunately I have enough 60/2 silk on hand that I can do it.  Then I can REALLY play!

[Show as slideshow]
Pattern for Black Jewel A black-and-white rendition of the pattern for Black Jewel
An in-progress photo An in-progress photo. I love the way the colors look in the warp!

A closeup of the finished shawl Closeup of the center part of the shawl. (Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)
Entire "Black Jewel", full view

Another photo of the finished shawl. Another photo of the finished shawl. (Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: blue to fuchsia warp, gradient colors, network drafting

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