Tien Chiu

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You are here: Home / Archives for Creative works / Fiber Arts

September 2, 2009 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

black jewel

Closeup of the center pattern for Black Jewel

This shawl, which is one of my favorites, is woven on a 2/28 nm silk warp dyed in 29 colors, with a black cashmere yarn of about the same weight as weft.  The colors are so close to each other that visually they are almost indistinguishable, producing a very nice gradual fade from turquoise to fuchsia and back again.

This kind of gradual color change has been so successful that I am embarking on a new adventure: dyeing a full color wheel in 60/2 silk, in gradually changing colors!  I estimate that it will take about 120 skeins to get all the way around the color wheel, but fortunately I have enough 60/2 silk on hand that I can do it.  Then I can REALLY play!

Pattern for Black Jewel A black-and-white rendition of the pattern for Black Jewel
An in-progress photo An in-progress photo. I love the way the colors look in the warp!
A closeup of the finished shawl Closeup of the center part of the shawl. (Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)
Entire "Black Jewel", full view
Another photo of the finished shawl. Another photo of the finished shawl. (Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: blue to fuchsia warp, gradient colors, network drafting

September 2, 2009 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

ocean sunset shawl

Photo courtesy Joe Decker, of Rockslide Photography
Photo courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography

This shawl came off the same warp as three other shawls, “Ocean Sunset II”, “Black Jewel”, and “Crazy Colors”.  (Click here to see the others.)  The shawl is made from 2/28 nm silk hand-dyed (by me!) in 60 colors – 29 in the warp and 21 in the weft.  It is woven in stripes, each stripe so similar in color to its neighbors that the transition appears seamless.  There are 58 stripes in the warp and far more in the weft.  Each warp stripe is only 1/2″ wide!

The pattern for this weft is displayed in the gallery thumbnails – it’s a network drafted pattern on 24 shafts, on a 4-shaft rosepath network.  As you can see, it’s a complex design, but I liked it a lot.  Woven, I think it’s maybe a little “busy” with all the color changes, but it’s still one of my favorite pieces.  Laid straight out it looks a bit stripey, but as you can see, it looks beautiful when rumpled (as it would be if you were wearing it)!  I’ve gotten a lot of compliments on this shawl.

draft for the ocean sunset shawl
gradual color changes in handwoven shawl
Full view of the ocean sunset shawl
closeup of the unfinished ocean sunset shawl
A closer view of the unfinished shawl, showing the color transitions.
Ocean Sunset shawl crumpled to show the handwoven iridescence
photo of finished shawl

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: blue to fuchsia warp, gradient colors

August 28, 2009 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Silk & cashmere jacket

jacket

This came off the same warp as the goldenrod shawl and the garnet shawl. I dyed some 2/28 nm silk yarn for warp and some 2/28 nm cashmere for weft. For the warp, I alternated 2″ stripes of chestnut brown and golden brown; the weft I dyed a deep shade of eggplant.

The draft was my first attempt at network drafting, for which I had lots of generous help from Bonnie Inouye. Network drafting is a technique for making curved patterns in fabric, made available to the handweaving community by Alice Schlein in her book Network Drafting: An Introduction. It produces complex, curvy patterns with very little effort, and generally produces a very stable cloth.

Weaving the fabric for the jacket was quite a challenge; one of my shafts kept “floating” and so there were numerous flaws in the finished fabric.  But aha, the magic of cutting and sewing: I simply cut around the flaws!  There are a few visible in the finished piece, but on the whole it looks quite nice, better than the fabric did!

I lined the jacket with silk charmeuse, dyed chestnut brown to match the warp.  The pattern is a Butterick pattern, but I don’t recall the pattern number.

Draft of the jacket pattern
A close-up of the finished fabric
A photo of the finished cloth.
jacket

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: network drafting

August 28, 2009 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

tiger eye

tiger_eye_closeup

This piece was one of my very early pieces – I wove it on my first loom, an 8-shaft Baby Wolf.  It was my first attempt at designing my own patterns, and I’m still very proud of it.  I took the “Heart Throb Scarf” pattern from Twill Thrills: The Best of Weaver’s and modified it ruthlessly until I had a pattern I liked.  I cut off the top part of the heart, reflected the bottom half of the heart to produced a “slit pupil” effect, then tinkered with the pattern beneath the heart until I had a rounded cat’s eye.  I then hand-dyed the silk warp in two subtly different shades of orange (to add visual interest), and the cashmere weft in solid black.

The beads are by Gayle Herring, lampworked glass.

The tiger eye pattern The tiger eye pattern, as simulated by weaving software.
The sample I wove for the tiger eye shawl. The sample I wove before tackling the full shawl. It shows off the two different shades of orange quite nicely.
A closeup of the tiger eye pattern, showing off the beads. A closeup of the tiger eye pattern, showing off the beads.
The entire tiger-eye shawl. The complete tiger eye shawl.

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: advancing twill

August 23, 2009 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

garnet shawl

Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads.

This shawl came out of the same warp as the goldenrod shawl and the silk and cashmere jacket.  I dyed some 2/28 nm silk yarn for warp and some 2/28 nm silk/cashmere for weft. For the warp, I alternated 2″³ stripes of chestnut brown and golden brown; the weft I dyed a deep garnet red.

The inspiration for this color came from a dear friend of mine, who is a Tibetan lama (very unusual for a Caucasian woman) and who had moved to India with her family.  I had offered her some mohair yarn in whatever shade she liked; she asked for a maroon or dark red, as that is the most appropriate shade for a Tibetan lama to wear.

So I mucked about in my dye samples, and finally decided to dye it using mostly red dye, with just a trace of turquoise to tone down the color.

I was absolutely shocked by the resulting shade: a glorious auburn red!  I hated to part with such beautiful yarn, but I had promised it, so I sent it on its way and promptly determined to dye some more!

This was one of my early attempts at network drafting, a very regular pattern resembling the overshot pattern called “orange peel”.  I still like the symmetry.

I beaded it with small amber beads and large garnet foil beads, but I have to warn you: those beads come off!  I’m constantly having to sew them back on.   Next time I use smaller beads!

Garnet weft shown with beads This is the garnet shawl in its preliminary stages, showing the beads
The garnet weft shown with the warp Another shot of the garnet weft placed against the warp.
Garnet shawl on the loom Half-woven garnet shawl. Here the pattern shows most clearly!
A large shot of the garnet shawl, showing the pattern. Larger photo of the garnet shawl
Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads. My garnet shawl, beaded.

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: network drafting

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