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You are here: Home / Archives for autumn splendor

April 25, 2011 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Proof of concept

Got home, thoroughly exhausted, and fell over almost immediately.  But not before doing this:

1st devore experiment on tencel warp
1st devore experiment on tencel warp

The tencel burns away beautifully, leaving a very fine mesh of metallic gold embroidery thread plus the synthetic component of the warp (in this case, a fine polyester yarn).  It’s lovely.

Next on the agenda is to design and weave samples for the Fine Threads Study Group, as the deadline for that exchange is coming up way too fast.  I’ll most likely do it on this warp, but with a slightly different liftplan.  With forty-three samples due, I’ll need to weave it up fairly quickly and then dedicate an afternoon to devore.  It takes about five minutes to burn out a sample, so that’s about four hours, just to do the devore!  But I think it will produce a more interesting exchange than the cross-dyed samples.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor, devore

April 22, 2011 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Finished sample

My plane is about to board, so here’s just a quick shot of the finished sample, snapped in the airport with my ever-handy iPhone:

First sample, showing all four shades of green
First sample, showing all four shades of green

More later, once I’m on the ground.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor

April 20, 2011 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Drop-dead gorgeous

I love this warp!  It is weaving up beautifully with the green wefts.  Here is a photo of it early on:

early part of the weaving, green tencel and gold embroidery thread weft, showing the sparkle of the opalescent transparent nylon thread
early part of the weaving, green tencel and gold embroidery thread weft, showing the sparkle of the opalescent transparent nylon thread

The sparkle was nearly impossible to capture except edge-0n.  This photo gives a better view of the overall pattern:

beginning, green tencel and gold embroidery thread weft
beginning, green tencel and gold embroidery thread weft

The pattern is nothing too exceptional, but I love the color!, and the sparkle is amazing!  There are four sections: polyester thread (matte finish), transparent lurex (a little sparkly), gold metallic embroidery thread (metallic glimmer), and transparent nylon thread, which is my favorite and is delightfully opalescent.  The weft is a chartreuse 20/2 tencel yarn, with a strand of gold metallic embroidery thread thrown in every fourth pick.

The colors are so beautiful that it seems a pity to burn away any of the fabric!  But I will need to, both to learn the devore technique and to see how the fine synthetic threads look when the tencel is removed.   Pretty as it is, this cloth is only the beginning.  And if I can get the underneath fabric to work as I am envisioning…the combination will be stunning.

Crossing my fingers that I can make this work!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor

April 17, 2011 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Starting over

Yesterday’s festivities included the first dyeing session for my Fine Threads Study Group samples, and almost finishing the threading for the devore sampler.  I say “almost” because, as I was blitzing along on thread #720 of 800, treadling my threading and humming a cheery “I’m-almost-done-threading” tune, I happened to look up at my monitor, and realized that the treadling sequence ended at pick #741.

How could this be?  If I were treadling the threading, the sequence should have ended at pick #800.

Then I realized that, in my haste to start threading, I had forgotten to set the treadling sequence to be the same as the threading in my weaving draft.  I had been threading the treadling sequence in my original draft, not the threading!

I said a couple of bad words and assessed the situation.  Eventually I concluded that there was nothing for it but to start over.  I said a few more choice words and consoled myself with the knowledge that only a genius such as myself could have made such an error.  A mere mortal would have been content with only a few small threading errors, easily fixed; but to thread up 720 threads of a completely wrong threading required genius, nothing less.  C’est la vie.

Given my display of brilliance, I decided to quit threading for the day, and do something that even a genius couldn’t screw up.  I started making pirns.  I needed 12 pirns to wind my colors onto, and wanted to label them with the color numbers and formulas.  So I rolled a bunch of paper pirns, wrapping half a sheet of 8.5 x 11 standard copy paper tightly around a 5/16″ dowel and taping it closed.  (Actually, the way to do it is to apply the tape beforehand, then roll up the pirn – giving you a nice, totally smooth edge when the pirn is completely rolled.)  This works with Schacht and regular-size Bluster Bay end-feed shuttles.  Since I can manufacture a paper pirn in about 30 seconds with maybe 2 cents’ worth of paper and 1 cent’s worth of tape, that’s a 99+% savings over purchasing a plastic pirn.  In about fifteen minutes I manufactured 30 paper pirns, saving myself over $100.  At that rate, I could “pay” myself $400 an hour to roll paper pirns!  I felt somewhat better about my cleverness, and proceeded to wind a couple skeins onto the pirns before giving up for the day.

So today’s festivities will involve threading the CORRECT draft, another three hours of work, and then going up to Sharon’s to get a dress form cover fitted.  With luck, I should be able to rethread today and sley, tie on, and start weaving on Monday.

Ann asked what colors I used to create the colors in the last post.  I used Cibacron F fiber-reactive dyes, colors Red F-33 (which I later found out is actually a mix, not a “pure” color at all), Blue F-GF, and Golden Yellow.  Sadly, Blue F-GF is no longer available (I stocked up as soon as I found it was discontinued), so I’m afraid those formulas won’t be of much use, but the green is 9-1 gold-blue (9 parts gold to 1 part blue), the warm brown is 7-2-1 gold-red-blue, the cooler brown is 5-3-2 gold-red-blue.  The four depths-of-shades are .5%, 1%, 2%, and 4% (this refers to the weight of dye relative to the weight of fiber).

Filed Under: All blog posts, dyeing, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor

April 16, 2011 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Dyed wefts

The 20/2 tencel arrived yesterday evening, and I lost no time – I’ve dyed two batches of weft colors and beamed on 90% of the warp already.

Here is a photo of my weft colors:

weft colors for devore samples
weft colors for devore samples

These are dyed with Cibacron F fiber-reactive dyes, three colors at four intensities each.  My original intent was to use a single weft in this piece, and just test out the different colors/intensities to see which I like best.  But now that I’ve seen the weft colors (they are gorgeous, aren’t they?), another idea has popped up to explore…gradation dyeing, in color and intensity, starting with pale green at the top and finishing with dark brown at the bottom.  This intrigues me, because it is a new thought – my prior attempts at gradation dyeing were all done with two “pure” colors and at the same intensity.  Using a three-color mix and altering the concentration of dye simultaneously sounds really interesting! and, as we all know, interesting things should be played with, so I am seriously considering doing some gradation-dyeing tests with differing intensities of green, golden brown, and dark brown.  (That’s assuming these wefts work out, of course.)

I have beamed on the warp in four sections: clear Lurex thread, metallic gold embroidery thread, clear, iridescent nylon thread, and a very fine polyester-cotton mixed yarn.  Each section of these is mixed with tencel in a 1:4 ratio, with 1 strand of the metallic being carried in the same heddle as every fourth strand of tencel yarn.  When burned out, the tencel will all go away, leaving only the fine threads.

I had intended to put on the threads in a 1:8 ratio, but it was so much easier to beam  on with four cones and a 1:4 ratio that I decided to start there.  If 1:4 turns out to be too dense, I’ll do another sample at 1:8.

I also needed to redo the draft, since I had gone from 1440 threads to 800, so here it is:

network drafted, drafting on a four-end network
network drafted, drafting on a four-end network

In this case I opted for a four-end network, as it created smoother curves and I didn’t feel I needed the high contrast 6 ends would give.  I made it a descending 4-end network (4-3-2-1 instead of 1-2-3-4) because, if you are right-handed, it is easier to thread and sley a descending series than an ascending one.  I learned that from Laura Fry (hi Laura!) and it has made my life much easier when designing and threading drafts with straight runs.

Plan for this weekend is to get a bunch of smaller items off my to-do list, and to finish warping/start weaving the devore sampler.  With only 800 threads to do, and the warp almost fully beamed, I should be able to start weaving this weekend.  So stay tuned for photos!

Filed Under: All blog posts, dyeing, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor, gradient colors

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