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You are here: Home / Archives for celtic braid coat

July 14, 2012 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Design decisions

I’ve spent the last day or so messing around with pattern pieces for the Celtic Braid Coat.  The problem is that I have three deerskin hides – two thicker and one thinner.  The thinner one is obviously of better quality, and also better suited to garment making.  The two thicker ones are of lesser quality, each with a large hole in the side, but put together, they have more square footage.

The dilemma:

The front pattern pieces, cut out, will just barely-maybe-perhaps squeeze onto the thinner hide.  This, however, would put the side seams at the very edge of the hide, which is the weakest part and the most likely to stretch.  And I would have none left over for the facings, so I would either have to make the facings out of the thicker hide or just use cloth for the facings.

The front pattern pieces can be cut out of the thicker hides, one pattern piece per hide, with just-barely-maybe-perhaps enough room to squeeze the facings out of the same hides.  Again, though, that puts the seams at the very edge of the hide, which is the weakest part.

The best solution I can think of is to convert the front pattern piece from a single monolithic front to a paneled front, with a relatively small side panel (maybe 2-3 inches wide), cut out of the silk fabric that I’m using for the back.  Then I can cut both front pieces out of the better quality, thinner hide, keeping the seams away from the weak edges of the hide.  And I can cut the facings out of one of the thicker hides.  It’s not ideal, but it seems like the best option, as it keeps the better quality hide on the outside and avoids cutting things from the weaker part of the leather.

I have a katazome (Japanese paste-resist dyeing) workshop for most of today and tomorrow, but I am hoping to sneak in some time in the evenings to do the pattern alteration and sew another muslin of the vest.

I am, incidentally, using Trello to track what I need to do for the coat.  I do my brainstorming of tasks in Evernote (both because I find it easier and to keep a permanent record), but it is easier to track and reorder the tasks in Trello.  Here is a screenshot of my Trello board for the coat:

Trello task board for the Celtic Braid Coat
Trello task board for the Celtic Braid Coat

I’m finding it very useful for tracking what I need to work on.

Meanwhile, in zucchini-land, I’ve given up on photographing the monster – it’s simply too big.  It is also starting to crank out zucchini at an alarming rate.  However, some suckers good friends came by last night and relieved us of seven zucchini, so we should have a few days’ reprieve before the onslaught resumes.

The butternut squash, meanwhile, is invading the beans and is locked in mortal combat with the melons.  (It will win, of course, which suggests that some human intervention may be in order.  I like melons!)  Fortunately, a stray drift of wind has sent it rampaging past (not into) the tomatoes, though who knows how long that will last?  I am looking forward to lots of butternut squash, anyway – a few squash look like they’re full-size already.  Perhaps I had better fertilize the monster again, just to keep those delicious butternut squash forming.

Off to the katazome workshop!  Hopefully my subconscious will percolate on the pattern problem for the Celtic Braid Coat while I’m learning about katazome, and I’ll return with a clear path in my mind.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles Tagged With: celtic braid coat

July 8, 2012 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Full steam ahead

To my surprise, the first muslin passed muster with only a few minor changes – largely because it isn’t a fitted garment, so there really isn’t much editing to do.  Which means it’s time to get started on sewing!

Well, almost.  There is one small catch: the  front panels and trim of the garment are to be black suede, and I know nothing about sewing with leather.  Sharon doesn’t have much experience with leather either, so isn’t able to help much.

Amazon to the rescue!  I have ordered a copy of what promises to be an excellent book – Leather Fashion Design by Francesca Sterlacci.  The author has sterling credentials: according to Amazon,

Francesca Sterlacci is Director of Design and Merchandising at Atelier Avocado, based in California, and is on the faculty of the University of the Arts in San Francisco. Previously at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, she was Chairperson of the Fashion Design department. She is the creator of the Leather Apparel Certificate Program, the Haute Couture Program, and the Outerwear and Performance Apparel Program at FIT. Before that, she founded her own design company and sold at prestigious stores including Henri Bendel, Saks, Barney’s, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom.

In short, this seems likely to be the book on working with leather, and I’m looking forward to reading it when it arrives on Wednesday.

Meanwhile, I plan to occupy myself playing with fashion draping.  Sharon answered a couple questions I had on draping, and showed me how to move a dart around.  I think I now have a fairly-decent understanding of how to drape a basic muslin, and plan to spend some time over the next month or so working my way through the bodice draping exercises in Draping for Apparel Design (Helen Joseph-Armstrong).

Also, while we were playing with darts, I spotted what looks like a (phoenix?) wing shape in the neckline of one of the dart variations.  Here it is, a bit exaggerated:

bird wing? (right side of photo)
bird wing? (right side of photo)

Put on both sides, add a feathered pattern, and you could have the wings of a phoenix rising from its ashes.  Hmm!

But before I can develop this idea further, I need to understand how to drape a basic muslin.  Off to practice!

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles Tagged With: celtic braid coat, phoenix rising

July 7, 2012 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Celtic Braid Coat, 1st muslin

The pattern for the coat turns out to be quite simple – two front panels, the back, the cape (four panels), and the collar.  So I cut it out last night and sewed it up this morning:

Celtic Braid Coat, 1st muslin
Celtic Braid Coat, 1st muslin

And here is the artist’s conception of what the finished piece will look like:

Rough simulation of the Celtic Braid Coat
Rough simulation of the Celtic Braid Coat

The “buttons” aren’t going to be made of the fabric, but I wanted something red to show off the concept, so I cut little circles from the fabric.  They’ll probably be replaced by black and red buttons.

I’m still toying with the idea of having a thin Celtic braid running around the collar, but preliminary experiments suggest that it’s a little too much.

Meanwhile, today’s mail brought a lovely little shuttle, the result of a trade with Nancie in North Carolina:

Bluster Bay mini shuttle!
Bluster Bay mini shuttle!

I swapped out my full size Bluster Bay end-feed shuttle for a Bluster Bay mini.  This one is  gorgeous – thanks Nancie!

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles Tagged With: celtic braid coat

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