Tien Chiu

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You are here: Home / Archives for doubleweave shawls

July 14, 2010 by Tien Chiu

Back in action

After several more unfruitful repair attempts, I called AVL yesterday.  I talked to one of their technicians and within fifteen seconds he told me the cause and the solution.  I moved out the end caps on shafts 22-24 a little bit and voila! problem fixed.  Like magic.

So I have been merrily weaving away, and am now at the 19″ mark, about 1/4 of the way through.  I’m weaving at about 3.6 picks per second (including advancing the warp, checking the underside for errors, etc.), which means that it will (in theory anyway) take me about 6 hours to weave the rest of the shawl.  Add another two hours for unpicking errors, floats, etc. and that comes out to about 8 hours.  This is reassuring since it means I can most likely get the shawl woven in time for Complex Weavers.  I will likely be finishing it on the plane and wet-finishing it in the hotel, but hey, a girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do, right?  And it means I will have something new to show at Complex Weavers/Convergence.

I took a couple photos of the work-in-progress, but I couldn’t get enough of it in the shot to show off the color progression.  So instead I will give you a photo of the first 36 pirns, which do show a clear color progression, and are quite pretty, arranged on the windowsill:

wound pirns for handwoven doubleweave shawl, showing the color gradient
wound pirns for handwoven doubleweave shawl, showing the color gradient

And now, back to weaving.  I gots a shawl to finish, after all!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: doubleweave, doubleweave shawls, gradient colors

July 13, 2010 by Tien Chiu

The real thing

I wove up a few more samples, and wet-finished the first one.  Here is the front of the first sample, wet-finished:

Wet-finished handwoven doubleweave sample, solid color warp and weft, front
Wet-finished handwoven doubleweave sample, solid color warp and weft, front

And here is the back:

Wet-finished handwoven doubleweave sample, solid color warp and weft, back view
Wet-finished handwoven doubleweave sample, solid color warp and weft, back view

You can see the long floats where I had problems with shaft #24.  But more on that later…

I then decided to see what the color progression would look like when woven.  Here is a portion of that sample (the rest is wound onto the cloth beam, and I don’t want to disturb the weaving-in-progress by unrolling it):

handwoven doubleweave sample, showing the color gradients
handwoven doubleweave sample, showing the color gradients

Here you can see a progression from gold/turquoise weft down to fuchsia/red – the final set of squares does not belong to the color gradient but is an experiment to see whether I liked starting the yellow against the fuchsia warp (instead of red against fuchsia).  Preliminarily, I don’t like the combination, but it is intriguing enough that I may weave it up to see.  For this warp I am worried that the turquoise weft combined with the gold weft will produce large areas of low contrast between warp and weft, resulting in “plain blue” and “plain yellow” squares.  I am not sure whether that will work in this shawl or not.

At this point I had reached the limit of what could be simulated with samples, and I was eager to get on to the “real thing”, so I started weaving the “real” shawl:

handwoven doubleweave shawl, first seven inches
handwoven doubleweave shawl, first seven inches
handwoven doubleweave shawl, first seven inches, second view
handwoven doubleweave shawl, first seven inches, second view

The  color gradients are not really visible yet, but I expect them to get considerably more visible in the next six inches, in the fuchsia warp anyway: that weft is headed rapidly into purples.  The red is tinged with orange, but the real progression to orange occurs in pirns #12-18, so not as much change there.

All this is beyond my ability to simulate using Photoshop, so I’m “weaving blind” – it’s too complex for me to visualize in my head, so the only thing to do is weave it up!

Which brings us to the weaving part.  Shaft #22 and 24 are giving me conniptions.  Shaft #22 now rises all the time unless I shove the compudobby box as close as it will go against the loom.  Fine.  I can do that.  However, now shaft #24 refuses to lift, because the solenoid cap (the little U-shaped thing) is rotating until it no longer “cups” the wire when retracted, but presses up against it instead.  The end result is the same as if it refused to retract – the shaft stays down all the time.  I managed to weave about eight inches before it started its antisocial behavior, but since then it’s mostly been weaving and unweaving.  Unweaving is an incredibly slow and tedious process because there are two layers that need to be unwoven, so it takes double the time.  I have now made some adjustments to the loom, and we’ll have to see whether that improves matters.  As soon as Mike gets up I’ll take it for a test run.

Dye-wise, I am still doing samples and experimenting with my process.  For some reason, at pH 5.0 the red dye simply will not exhaust.  I am going to drop the pH down to 4.5, take out the leveling agent, and see whether that works any better.

Between the weaving and the dyeing, I’m starting to get frustrated.  I have the patience of Job (or can at least fake it when necessary), but to have major setbacks on two projects at once is incredibly frustrating.  I sure hope the last round of loom changes fixes the problem and I can get back to weaving!

Off to the dyepots!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, dyeing, weaving Tagged With: doubleweave, doubleweave shawls, gradient colors

July 11, 2010 by Tien Chiu

Dyeing to start

I have now finished dyeing and winding all the skeins onto cones – 26 colors from red to golden yellow:

red to gold gradient color yarn for doubleweave shawls
red to gold gradient color yarn for doubleweave shawls

And here is the fuchsia to turquoise that I did awhile back:

blue to fuchsia color gradient for doubleweave shawls
blue to fuchsia color gradient for doubleweave shawls

Now I’m busily manufacturing paper pirns.  These are basically just paper quills, rolled around a ball-point pen.  I decided to experiment to see whether paper pirns would work after realizing that I would need 54 pirns just for this project!  At $2-3/pirn, that gets expensive fast.  And paper pirns work!  You have to be a little careful about winding the back end, and about keeping the edges smooth, but other than that it’s easy, fast, and cheap.  I will never buy another pirn again!

homemade pirn, rolled from an ordinary sheet of paper
homemade pirn, rolled from an ordinary sheet of paper

So now it’s time to start weaving.  I managed to get most of my loom woes solved, but not quite all.  I think I will mount a second mirror to see if I can catch the long floats as they happen, but I am not optimistic.  I will weave about another six inches of samples to see if it happens again, and try to debug it if it does.

I have also started work on my process testing for the dye study group…spent most of yesterday mixing up batches of dyebath, dye stocks, etc., and will be doing more samples today.  So far the results have been disappointing, but I am persevering.  Hopefully I will have results to show soon!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: doubleweave, doubleweave shawls

July 8, 2010 by Tien Chiu

You never know until you weave it

I decided to weave up a different pattern yesterday – here it is:

doubleweave sample, horizontal banding in the background, top view
doubleweave sample, horizontal banding in the background, top view

In addition to varying from 1/3 to 3/1 twill in the blocks, it also varies rapidly from 1/3 to 2/2 to 3/1 twill in the background, producing a soft banding.  Because the variation happens over such a small area, it blends together and mostly adds texture to the background.  I love it!

The interesting part is that I did not like this pattern much when simulated in Photoshop!  (Click through to see the larger version.)

doubleweave sample, horizontal banding in the background, Photoshop simulation
doubleweave sample, horizontal banding in the background, Photoshop simulation

In Photoshop the color changes look garish and distracting.  In the actual weave, the colors are more subtle and they add a shimmery look to the shawl.

Which just goes to show, you never know until you weave it!

I have repositioned my mirror to show the shed, and have discovered that the sheds are mostly clear, except at the boundary between blocks.  That is good news indeed, and the weaving is looking  much better on the underside.  Except for this small problem (click through to the larger photo to see it):

doubleweave sample with horizontal banding in the background, bottom side
doubleweave sample with horizontal banding in the background, bottom side

One of the blue-warp shafts is not lifting, producing extremely long floats on the bottom.  I suspect it of being shaft #2 since it got itself stuck earlier – for once, not a compudobby issue but a problem with the wires inside the dobby box.  I will have to do some more diagnosis tonight.

Meanwhile, I have finished dyeing the skeins for the weft.  I have to take a look at the second set in bright light.  Those skeins look blotchy, and I am thinking I will probably redo them.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: doubleweave, doubleweave shawls

July 7, 2010 by Tien Chiu

Doubleweave samples

It was an exhausting long weekend – the first two days were spent setting up the BBQ, having the party, and cleaning up.  By the time Saturday and Sunday were over, I was feeling reclusive and fiber-deprived, so I spent all day Monday working obsessively in the dyepots and over the loom.

And here is what I have!

block doubleweave samples, top side
block doubleweave samples, top side

Much to my surprise, my best-guess sett turns out to be correct, and the results, on the top at least, are lovely.

Alas, the results on the bottom are not so lovely:

Back side of block doubleweave samples
Back side of block doubleweave samples

Kind of hard to make out, but you can clearly see the skips in the orange/yellow layer, where blue is peeking through.

I think I understand what the problem is, but not (yet) how to fix it.  I’m weaving with 1/3 twill background on the top and 1/3 twill background showing on the bottom, which of course means that I’m actually weaving a 3/1 twill on the bottom.  This means that I’m weaving with nearly all threads lifted, which is (generally) an invitation to skipped threads.  I have a mirror adjusted so I can see the bottom of the cloth, but the lighting on the bottom is  poor and it’s difficult to see skips as they happen.  I tried lighting the bottom layer to make things more obvious, but to no avail.  I may re-adjust the mirror to show me the shed instead of the bottom layer – not the best of solutions since it means turning my head to check every single pick, but better than lots of skips.  If anyone has a better suggestion, I’m all ears.

That said, I am ECSTATIC at the appearance of the doubleweave blocks.  On the topside, it’s just beautiful.  And the two-shuttle weave is going nicely, too.  I had worried that switching shuttles constantly would be frustrating, breaking the natural rhythm.  But it turns out to be just a different rhythm – slower, sure, but not much slower than what I’ve been weaving lately!  And the results are worth the additional effort.

I have also made progress on dyeing the weft skeins.  Here is my dyeing setup:

dyeing setup for multiple=
dyeing setup for multiple small skeins

I’m using Sandra Rude’s system, with loops of heavy copper wire in vinyl tubing holding each skein.  This makes it easy to lift the skein out of the dyebath without tangling the skein or burning your hands, and is a handy place to hang a tag, too.  Once the skein is out of the dyebath, it gets labeled and hung to dry.

Here are about half the skeins, almost dry:

1st set of skeins, dyed in gradient colors
1st set of skeins, dyed in gradient colors

Not a huge difference in color, but it goes from a bluer red at right to a distinctly orangey red at left.  I’m using price tags to label each skein, and will label each cone as it’s wound on.

I now have a lot of meticulous work to do.  The pattern did not come out quite as I wanted, so I’m going to have to rework the pattern in Photoshop to make sure that it comes out right.  This entails quite a bit of tedious point-and-clicking, which I am not looking forward to, but hey, a girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do, right?  So tonight I will continue weaving samples to see if I can get both layers perfect (or near perfect), and tomorrow morning I will rework my patterns in Photoshop.  I may  also play around with color gradients in the weaving, which means winding a bunch more pirns.  Fortunately I have figured out how to wind a small piece of watercolor paper (rough on one side) into a pirn of sorts, or I would be buying 56 pirns just for this one project!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, dyeing, weaving Tagged With: doubleweave, doubleweave shawls, gradient colors

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