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December 10, 2023 by Tien Chiu 8 Comments

Velvet doodles

The velvet warp is now dyed and in the Eternal Rinse Cycle. I say “eternal” because I’ve been soaking/rinsing it for two and a half days now and small amounts of color are STILL coming out. Really dark blues are prone to bleeding, and this is an extremely dark blue, but still, this is ridiculous. I am considering boiling it with detergent as a “Take THAT!” measure, because I am eager to get on with putting on the warp.

Normally I wouldn’t worry about a teeny-tiny bit of bleeding (it generally doesn’t stick), but there’s some chance I might decide to use white for the pile, in which case even a little bleeding will be disastrous. And velvet is VERY time-consuming to weave, so weaving an entire piece and then discovering bleeding would be, well, tragic. I could always try weaving a sample to find out, but better to avoid bleeding entirely.

I am not, however, planning on using white, at least right now. I spent the morning playing with potential color combinations. With a two-color polychrome velvet warp, I get three warp colors: the foundation warp, pile warp #1, and pile warp #2. I also get all the mixes of any two warps, with the caveat that the blends will generally not be smooth.

Because I am constitutionally incapable of doing anything simple, I’ve been messing around with gradients in both polychrome warps. I spent the morning doodling up possible designs with different gradient combinations, and have settled on these two gradients for the pile:

yellow to red color gradient
blue to green to blue symmetric gradient

The foundation warp, of course, is already decided (mottled dark blue, black, and purple) and will look like this:

mottled blue-black-purple background

(That looks like pure black, especially on a white background, but it’s not. It has very subtle color changes.)

I can choose any one of these color sets, or mixes of each of them, to work with in my design.

Here are a few of my doodles:

orange and yellow phoenix on blue-green background
"sunset" on an alien blue-green sky with mottled black liquid splashing upwards
red-yellow and blue-green double spiral
red-yellow spiral

and my favorite:

"woven cloth" in a double color gradient

The combination of an asymmetric gradient and a symmetric one produces a far more interesting result than two symmetric or two asymmetric gradients. That was a surprise, but I’m really liking it.

These are just doodles, not serious work. I’m exploring the space of possible designs with these color combinations so I can choose colors. I haven’t yet figured out how to create those gradients, how many threads to wind together, or any of a host of other things. And when I start, I’ll likely start with a series of samples to fine-tune my setup before progressing on to actual designs.

But I’m really excited by the possibilities so far.

Some people, on the other hand, are upset about my dereliction of duty as I play around with possibilities. Clearly it is time to stop playing with velvet and do my One Job – catering to feline whims.

Fritz pawing at me, claws out.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: gradient colors, velvet

April 16, 2011 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Dyed wefts

The 20/2 tencel arrived yesterday evening, and I lost no time – I’ve dyed two batches of weft colors and beamed on 90% of the warp already.

Here is a photo of my weft colors:

weft colors for devore samples
weft colors for devore samples

These are dyed with Cibacron F fiber-reactive dyes, three colors at four intensities each.  My original intent was to use a single weft in this piece, and just test out the different colors/intensities to see which I like best.  But now that I’ve seen the weft colors (they are gorgeous, aren’t they?), another idea has popped up to explore…gradation dyeing, in color and intensity, starting with pale green at the top and finishing with dark brown at the bottom.  This intrigues me, because it is a new thought – my prior attempts at gradation dyeing were all done with two “pure” colors and at the same intensity.  Using a three-color mix and altering the concentration of dye simultaneously sounds really interesting! and, as we all know, interesting things should be played with, so I am seriously considering doing some gradation-dyeing tests with differing intensities of green, golden brown, and dark brown.  (That’s assuming these wefts work out, of course.)

I have beamed on the warp in four sections: clear Lurex thread, metallic gold embroidery thread, clear, iridescent nylon thread, and a very fine polyester-cotton mixed yarn.  Each section of these is mixed with tencel in a 1:4 ratio, with 1 strand of the metallic being carried in the same heddle as every fourth strand of tencel yarn.  When burned out, the tencel will all go away, leaving only the fine threads.

I had intended to put on the threads in a 1:8 ratio, but it was so much easier to beam  on with four cones and a 1:4 ratio that I decided to start there.  If 1:4 turns out to be too dense, I’ll do another sample at 1:8.

I also needed to redo the draft, since I had gone from 1440 threads to 800, so here it is:

network drafted, drafting on a four-end network
network drafted, drafting on a four-end network

In this case I opted for a four-end network, as it created smoother curves and I didn’t feel I needed the high contrast 6 ends would give.  I made it a descending 4-end network (4-3-2-1 instead of 1-2-3-4) because, if you are right-handed, it is easier to thread and sley a descending series than an ascending one.  I learned that from Laura Fry (hi Laura!) and it has made my life much easier when designing and threading drafts with straight runs.

Plan for this weekend is to get a bunch of smaller items off my to-do list, and to finish warping/start weaving the devore sampler.  With only 800 threads to do, and the warp almost fully beamed, I should be able to start weaving this weekend.  So stay tuned for photos!

Filed Under: All blog posts, dyeing, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor, gradient colors

July 19, 2010 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Finished!

I took the shawl with me to Complex Weavers, and by working feverishly on it on the plane and this morning when I got up, I got it fully complete, fringed, and wet-finished by noon:

completed handwoven doubleweave shawl, red/gold background
completed handwoven doubleweave shawl, red/gold background

completed handwoven doubleweave shawl, blue/purple/fuchsia background
completed handwoven doubleweave shawl, blue/purple/fuchsia background

I’m VERY pleased with it, and will be wearing it tonight for the Complex Weavers Fashion Show.

Complex Weavers Seminars has been delightful so far – getting to meet a lot of the people I’ve been corresponding with for years!  The first seminar, Su Butler speaking on tied weaves, was fantastic, and has inspired me to try tied weaves next.  I’m eagerly looking forward to the others.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: doubleweave, doubleweave shawls, gradient colors

July 17, 2010 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Take two

Eight or nine hours of obsessive weaving has produced this second “take”.  The photos, alas, do not do justice to the depth and saturation of the colors – they’re deep jewel shades that practically glow.  But here they are:

Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, blue/purple side, full view
Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, blue/purple side, full view

Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, full view
Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, full view

And here are the closeups:

Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, end view
Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, end view

Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, center view
Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, center view

Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, blue/purple side, end view
Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, blue/purple side, end view

Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, blue/purple side, center view
Second handwoven doubleweave shawl, blue/purple side, center view

I like this a LOT better.

For this variation, I eliminated both the striped background and the progression from 1/3 to 3/1 twills in the pattern squares.  Instead, the pattern squares are entirely 1/3 twills, 25% warp and 75% weft showing.  This was to maximize the visibility of the color-gradient wefts in the foreground.

I also decided to tone down the color changes in the background, so as not to compete with the foreground for attention.  So on the blue/purple side, I made the background a 2/2 twill (50% warp and 50% weft showing).  This allowed the blue warp to tone down the color changes a bit, while still leaving them quite visible. Because blue and fuchsia/purple are about equal strength, I “mixed” the colors in equal proportions.

On the gold/orange side, however, I made it a 3/1 twill (75% warp, 25% weft showing) so the gold warp would dominate.  Since yellow is such a weak color relative to red, I figured adding even a small amount of red would still shift the color.  And that is exactly what happened.  I think next time, though, I may try it with 2/2 twill (a 50-50 ratio) – I’d like to see even more reds in the background on the orange/yellow side.

Off to bed!  My flight to Albuquerque leaves at 2pm tomorrow and I haven’t even started packing yet.  Lots to do tomorrow!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: doubleweave, doubleweave shawls, gradient colors

July 16, 2010 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Done!

I was so eager to see the finished shawl that I stayed home last night, skipping my guild meeting (three months in a row – what WILL they think of me??) and weaving like a maniac, then hemstitching the shawl, cutting it off, and….

TA-DAA!

doubleweave shawl, blue side up, full view
doubleweave shawl, blue side up, full view

doubleweave shawl, orange side up, full view
doubleweave shawl, orange side up, full view

And here are some closeups:

doubleweave shawl, blue side, left edge
doubleweave shawl, blue side, left edge

doubleweave shawl, blue side, center
doubleweave shawl, blue side, center

handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, left side
handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, left side

handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, center
handwoven doubleweave shawl, orange side, center

Now for my critique:

First, I think there’s too much going on in the shawl.  The horizontal striping distracts from the color changes in the background, and the switches from 1/3 to 3/1 twill masks in the squares effectively hide the smooth color changes in the pattern.  Having spent so long laboring to make those color changes smooth, I also want the overall effect to feature them prominently!  So that is too bad, and I will avoid it in the next shawl.

Second, the colors are too bright and too large scale.  I put it on me, and the bright colors, coupled with the sheer size of the shawl, were a bit overwhelming, especially 0n the orange side.  If I were to redo it, I would either make the blocks smaller, the shawl narrower and shorter, or tone down the colors.

Third, there are a number of technical issues (mostly skips) in the blue side, which is a pity, because that’s the side I like better!  Most of those are due to my early loom woes, though, and once I got the loom working correctly, there are very few skips.  I’ve also learned to spot them as they happen, so there are fewer towards the end.

Overall, I like this shawl, though I don’t think it will be one of my favorites.

So what next?

I think I’m going to weave this pattern again, but with solid color warp and weft, and see what that looks like.  For my third shawl on this warp (I put on enough for three shawls), I’m going to eliminate the color variation in the background and in the blocks, and just use the color gradient wefts.  I think it will look better that way.

Curiously enough, my reaction to the finished shawl is very similar to my reaction to the Photoshop simulation, even though I liked the sample better.  So perhaps Photoshop is better than I’d thought, for simulations anyway!

Off to cook some food!  I’ve been so busy in the weaving studio that I wound up eating hardboiled eggs for dinner.  Time to make some “real” food so I don’t starve to death during the next weaving madness.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: doubleweave, doubleweave shawls, gradient colors

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