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You are here: Home / Archives for jacquard

April 5, 2026 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Back at (creative) work

I finished my hand-dyed bed linens, and they are fantastic! Here are the sheets:

And here is the blanket (plus Pepper the Professional Photobomber!):

Here’s what it looks like with the sheets turned properly down:

I LOVE it!

I’m planning on doing a second set of sheets, this one in blues and greens to match the blanket. More pictures once those are done! I may wind up mixing the sheet sets to have one blue sheet and one orange sheet in each set. Or maybe not. Stay tuned!

I’ve also gotten started on weaving stuff. (FINALLY!) You may or may not recall the series I’m working on, Unraveling. It’s a series of five images that starts with a woman screaming, woven in black and white, with the fabric slashed and frayed to reveal a layer of magenta cloth beneath the surface. Here’s the image I’m planning to weave – obviously it doesn’t have the double weave bottom layer or the slashes in it yet, but those are coming!

In the next frame, she reaches up a hand to her face and begins unraveling the frayed cloth, revealing a magenta mass of threads underneath. Here’s an “artist’s concept” (as they say) of what that might look like.

The next frame shows her as an unraveled mess of magenta thread, very loosely arranged in the shape of a face:

In the next frame, she is starting to put herself back together: a cocoon with a serene face

And, finally, the last frame shows her serene, with the magenta integrated, a single layer of cloth.

I handspun 1800 yards of superfine (the size of sewing thread) thread on a drop spindle while I was in Mexico, and will be using it in the magenta layer. It’s the “through line,” literally the thread that runs through the entire piece. It’s magenta because, on our last day in the old house, I arrived just before dawn to find a beautiful magenta glow in the sky over the home we were leaving behind:

After discussing the matter with Claude and doing some Googling for myself, I think those must have been the Northern Lights – the color is right and I can’t think of any other explanation. But it is practically unheard of to see the Northern Lights in the Bay Area, and to have that light up the sky on the last day in our old home? I took it as an omen, and I carried it with me all through my travels to Mexico. I literally spun it into a thread of continuity and contemplation:

I haven’t been able to work on the fabric design because I’ve had equipment issues (my pen display broke), but I should be able to start by the end of the week.

That may be getting ahead of myself, though. I need to set up the jacquard loom before I start weaving, and that’s gonna take a while. I have 1,320 heddles to thread, then debug (finding and fixing all the mistakes), before I can weave. I also want to replace 1,100 heddles with more durable ones. Finally, I need to wind and beam the warp for the project before I start threading. That’s a lot of infrastructure work, but it needs doing. And if you have to do something long and tedious, best to start right away. So I began winding the warp this afternoon. Forward ho!

The Megado? I have a project in mind for her, but I can’t finish designing it until I get that pen display. Soon, I hope!

By the way, I have decided to christen the Megado “Lady Lovelace” (after Ada Lovelace, of course). My jacquard loom is “Amazing Grace” (after pioneering software legend Grace Hopper). So now I have Lady Lovelace and Amazing Grace – which really ought to be the name of a rock duo. (Think I can get the Indigo Girls to change their name? 😉 )

And, of course, because no blog post would be complete without kittens, here are Nutmeg and Pepper, training for the North American Mixed Martial Arts championships! (All in fun – they chase each other all over the house almost every day, and there’s never any hissing. And all that kitten energy! They’re so much fun to watch.)

And all snuggled up afterwards.

They’re just over nine months now, and weigh as much as adult cats, so perhaps I should stop calling them kittens. But honestly? They’ll always be kittens to me.

Filed Under: All blog posts, dyeing, surface design, textiles, weaving Tagged With: jacquard, unraveling

February 5, 2024 by Tien Chiu 8 Comments

An afternoon playing with AI

The last week or so I’ve been playing “Squirrel!!!” as I chase from one project possibility to another. The warp currently on Grace is about to come off, giving me space for one 29″ wide project or two 14.5″ projects. What luxury! So I have been chasing squirrel after squirrel as I attempt to choose between a dizzying array of options.

I have also been experimenting with AI prompts. I know people have lots of reservations about AI (I do too), but it’s very clear to me that AI is here to stay. So either I sit down now and learn how to use it, or I’ll be forced to later, after it transforms the way we work, find information, and make new things. Given that, I’d prefer to be ahead of the curve.

Above and beyond that, I think ChatGPT and DALL-E are fascinating tools and I’m intrigued by the possibilities they create.

So here is the tale of my afternoon with AI.

I was thinking of putting on another “fire” warp. For those who missed the first one, here’s what it looked like:

orange and yellow-orange painted warp

This one was composed of four different yarns wound together: silk, unmercerized cotton, and one fine/one thicker mercerized cotton. When I dyed it, they took up dye at different rates, producing the lovely variegated effect you see.

That warp never did get woven, for a variety of reasons, and I finally cut it off Maryam when I sold her. But I was thinking it might be time to revisit it, because it was So. Bloody. Pretty.

However, I felt really stuck for what to weave with it.

Oh, there were the obvious things – California poppies, tigers, phoenixes – all things that would be fun and easy to weave. But I was looking for something with more complexity, meaning, and technical challenge than those.

And since I wanted to play around with AI anyway, I thought I’d take the question to ChatGPT and DALL-E.

I started by asking DALL-E to brainstorm five ideas for imagery I could create with red, orange, yellow, and black. It promptly spat back these ideas:

Prompt asking DALL-E to brainstorm ideas

The mandala sounded fun, but I thought it might be hard to make something that I’d consider meaningful or interesting. However, the geometric animal art sounded intriguing.

I thought of M.C. Escher’s famous tessellation of fish transforming into geese, and wondered if DALL-E could make something similar.

Nope.

DALL-E's attempt at a tessellation transforming tigers into birds

It wasn’t really a great prompt, but I’m not sure it would have done much better with a more detailed one.

I wasn’t terribly enchanted with the idea anyway – it struck me as an interesting but already-done gimmick – but the idea of tesselations and tigers fascinated me for some reason, so I tried again:

DALL-E generated images involving tessellations and tigers

This was not at all what I’d been expecting; I wanted a tiger made out of geometric shapes.

Back to DALL-E:

DALL-E generating a tiger made up of geometric tiger-stripe-like shapes

The first image intrigued me, particularly the way the tiger in the center “hid” in the background.

Still thinking about the tessellations and the transforming tigers, I sent this prompt to DALL-E:

DALL-E showing a tiger dissolving into geometric shapes

Now I was getting to something that might be interesting.

But I thought the geometric patterns had outlived their design usefulness as I continued to explore; they clashed with the smooth curves of the tiger.

So I told DALL-E to ditch the geometric stuff and just do a dissolving tiger.

DALL-E images without the geometric theme

These decidedly did not inspire me; the idea of a tiger disappearing into a burning forest is hardly new.

I poked around the dissolving tiger theme a bit more, with the idea of tigers fading into a city rather than a forest. This was hardly any more original, but I was enjoying playing around.

DALL-E images of a tiger fading into a cityscape

That last photo had me wondering if DALL-E was drunk and should go home for the night!

I decided that the cityscape wasn’t the solution. What about other things that symbolized modern technology?

Back to DALL-E with another request!

First set of images of tigers dissolving into circuit boards, with a cityscape.

Holy wow! I LOVED the image on the left. Especially the fiery glow of the eyes and the circuitry on the “cyborg” half of the tiger.

I wasn’t wild about the cityscape, though, so I asked DALL-E to eliminate it, and just do the circuitry:

Another version of the tiger dissolving into circuitry, with literal circuit board imagery

Uh….nice try, DALL-E…but I didn’t mean literal circuit boards.

Back for another try:

More images of tigers turning into circuitry

Closer. I did a few more iterations, and arrived at this:

Images refining the tiger-circuitry theme

Even closer…but still not quite.

A few more iterations, and I got this:

Final set of DALL-E images showing a tiger in one half and a circuitry tiger in the other half.

The right-hand photo was just about ideal, but DALL-E clearly hadn’t gotten the memo about making the tiger orange.

By this point I’d realized that DALL-E was pretty good at brainstorming ideas but not much good at editing to command. So I went to Photoshop, and fiddled with the tiger to add some color. (I’m pretty sure that color-fiddling was “enhanced” by AI as well, behind the scenes.)

I now had this:

final DALL-E + Photoshop image of a tiger on the left side, dissolving into circuitry on the right side.

A title popped to mind: AI: The Nature of the Beast. I was thinking vaguely of how the living tiger was converted to binary bits as AI gradually took over the world – or something like that.

I showed it to some friends, and one of them said, “What would happen if you flipped the design horizontally?”

Previous photo, flipped

Flipping it around, of course, made the starting-point the cyborg, rather than the tiger, since we (or at least I) read left to right. This seemed even more thematically interesting, although the reverse of what I had been thinking: now the AI was coming to life and becoming the “real” tiger.

The design also posed some interesting technical opportunities and challenges. I could use brushed mohair to create the appearance of tiger fur. I could use metallic yarns, or LEDs, or silkscreened circuitry, to enhance the cyborged half. I could do ALL THE THINGS!!!

So that was my afternoon with AI. It only took me about 40 minutes to go from start to finish with all this. The design isn’t done by any means; it’s way too complex and detailed to weave as it stands, and converting it to jacquard and adding metallics, screen printing, etc. would all take a ton of work.

That’s fine – I’m not really interested in going straight from AI-generated image to the loom. I feel there should be “hand of the maker” involved, and I also don’t like using the jacquard as a low-resolution printer. It’s a very common way that people weave on jacquard looms, but I also think it’s one of the least interesting. So I will likely do considerable modifications if I weave this design.

Musings

DALL-E served as an amazing way to generate and develop ideas. While it doesn’t produce anything on its own, and its original images weren’t thrilling, I managed to explore ten or twenty evolving ideas very rapidly, and wound up with something I found both interesting and worth exploring/working with further. It’s now in my “ideas” folder and I may very well weave it.

I don’t think that AI is going to replace artists. What it is going to do is reduce the skill required to make art. Instead of having to be an expert with a paint brush or with Photoshop/Illustrator, you can simply give it your idea and get one – or five, or fifty – possible directions you could go with it. You can then work with it to refine your idea further.

This version of DALL-E isn’t very good at modifying existing images, but that is coming. Adobe has already added AI features to Photoshop that allow you to circle an area, type in “Add a blue house with glowing windows,” and it will seamlessly add a blue house with glowing windows. Or replace a stop sign with trees, or whatever else you like.

My view on DALL-E and similar AIs, at least for now, is that they are likely to do for digital art what Photoshop did for traditional photography. Photoshop removed the need to have incredible technical skills at shooting, developing, and printing photos, because if you didn’t like something, you could always “Photoshop it” to fix lighting, add elements, etc. It didn’t remove the urge to create, it made it easier to create and reduced the skills required to create something you liked.

I personally really like DALL-E. That’s because I have a lot of ideas that I can’t give voice to because I don’t have the drawing skills. I mean, I can barely draw stick figures. But an afternoon playing with DALL-E enabled me to explore a lot of ideas, visually, that I could never have explored otherwise, because I simply didn’t have the skills.

Is that “cheating”? I don’t think it is. It’s simply a tool that makes it easier for me to create.

I love it.

P.S. Yes, I know there are a lot of ethical issues around copyrighted images and content being used without permission to train the models. As an artist and a writer, I do get (and share) the concerns. However, I also think those issues will be sorted out in time, and I also think that, either way, AI is here to stay.

Filed Under: All blog posts, musings, textiles, weaving Tagged With: AI, jacquard

April 18, 2015 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

What would you do if you could do anything?

The soon-to-arrive jacquard loom and the design freedom it will give me is a little bewildering. I’m used to working within the limitations of a shaft loom, which means I can’t do any sort of complex representative imagery. And I’m not all that interested in abstract designs. So for years and years, my focus has been on designing around the limitations of the loom. This means I can do a single musk ox, but I haven’t been able to do, say, a thundering herd of musk oxen rampaging through the Arctic wilderness.

Now I can. My highly constrained visual vocabulary is about to become nearly limitless. So now I’m finding myself at a loss: what would I say if I could say anything? I’ve been working around shaft limitations so long that I don’t have much practice in composition. I feel rather like a small-town girl let loose in the middle of New York City: There are so many amazing things to do and try, where does one even start?

So I’m thinking about taking Jane Dunnewold’s new class, Your Visual Language: Exploring Composition. She describes the class like this:

Contrast, relationship, symmetry, focal point, abstraction.

Terms you’d like to get to know better?

Then this is the right class for you. We’ll explore each of these concepts and a good deal more, through exercises done with cut paper, markers, and other simple design tools. Our goal is a clearer understanding of composition basics, with an emphasis on the articulation of personal visual language. Students will also have the option to share work in Open Studio, with other participants.

While I have considerable familiarity with the terms she mentioned, and I’ve had a college course in two-dimensional design already, I don’t have extensive experience practicing them in a textile context. I’m also intrigued by the “emphasis on the articulation of personal visual language”. I think that would be helpful for me as I explore this new world of creative freedom.

The timing of the class either couldn’t be better, or couldn’t be worse, depending on how you look at it. It runs for six weeks starting June 15, which means it will finish up just as the jacquard loom arrives. Hooray! But that is also the last six weeks before the book goes to the publisher. Boo. So it really depends on where I am with the book.

Nonetheless, I think I will sign up for the class. I’m not sure when or if it will be offered again, and if the book work becomes too intense, I can drop out. But I don’t think I’ll have to: the book is basically done at this point, so most of the work in the next four months is going to be getting photos, bios, etc. from artists, doing minor tweaks, and thinking about marketing opportunities. Plenty to be done, but not nearly as brain-draining as writing and editing the main text.

Meanwhile, what have I been up to? Catching up at work (where things have gone delightfully smoothly in my absence) and constructing a monster set of drafts. I wanted to see if I could weave matelassé and brocaded figured velvet with a stitched double-weave backing layer on the same warp. It turns out I can. I spent three days constructing the two drafts, which I’m not going to share because the drawdown looks like a confused mess. I have three warp systems and three wefts in both drafts, and the double weave structure adds another layer of complexity. I’m going to try simulating the fabric in ArahWeave later today, and if that works out, I’ll post a photo of the simulation.

Next task is to do better designs. I used very simple examples (velvet squares, matelasse circles) to figure out the construction of each structure. Now that I know how to do it, I can come back with more complex designs. It will still be a challenge to construct each draft, but hopefully easier the second time around. I am thinking I may write an article for Complex Weavers Journal on my construction algorithm, partly so I have a record of it myself, but also because it might be useful to others.

And, for those who have been patient with the photo-less-ness of the rest of this post, here’s a pic of a weekly household ritual: trying to change the sheets with two cats harassing, I mean helping, us. (Tigress in particular loves pouncing on the sheets as they move around. You can see her gearing up for a pounce in the photo…)

Fritz and Tigress helping change the sheets
Fritz and Tigress helping change the sheets

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: jacquard

April 12, 2015 by Tien Chiu 2 Comments

The book is beta ready!

Woot! I have finally gotten to a beta-ready manuscript of the book. That is, I’ve reached a point where I feel the writing and editing are almost done – that the topics are well-written, and in the correct order. And the phrasing is well-polished. So I have sent it out to a few select beta readers for their feedback, before sending it out to the artists I interviewed. I’m hoping to start sending it out by Thursday or Friday. Meanwhile, I’ll be prepping summaries of each artist’s quotes, requests for photos, etc. to send out to each of the 22 artists who are included in the book. Lots of stuff still to be done, just not that much writing/editing.

I have also spent two solid days studying jacquard design and ArahWeave (jacquard design software). While I have only scratched the surface of the topic, I am feeling considerably less bewildered. I believe I am starting to understand the conceptual framework for jacquard design – how the system “thinks”. I’ve also, thanks to the ArahWeave manuals and tutorials, begun to develop an understanding of how one translates these ideas into actual fabric design.

In the course of exploring the ArahWeave tutorials, I’ve also developed an interest in velvet and matelassé. I’m hoping my next warp will allow me to weave both – not sure, though, as the velvet will have to be woven on two warps, wound onto separate beams. (One for the ground cloth, one for the pile.) That may make it incompatible with matelassé. But now that I’ve finished my intense focus on the book, hopefully I can try my hand at these new structures. I need to come up with something to weave soon, before I finish the sea turtles!

Tomorrow I’m going back to work. It’s been a pleasant month of post-surgical recovery, but insofar as I’m mostly recovered, it’s time to put on my professional hat again. I’m not looking forward to the first few days back – I’m guessing I’ll return to 1000+ unread emails in my inbox, and the usual set of fires to fight. On the other hand, that is what I’m paid for, and I’m reasonably good at it. And I enjoy it, most of the time.

Meanwhile, between my printing out the manuscript and the ArahWeave manual, it has been a busy time for our laser printer. Which of course makes the cats happy, since a duplexing printer is endlessly fascinating. Here are a few shots of Fritz in action – sadly, I did not capture the moment where he tried to stick his entire head (and both front legs) into the printer while hanging upside down from the top of the printer. Just as well, I suppose – I was laughing so hard it would probably have come out blurry, anyway.

Fritz perched on the printer
Fritz perched on the printer

Fritz investigating the paper
Fritz investigating the paper

Fritz sticking his head into the printer
Fritz sticking his head into the printer

Fritz, lord of the printer
Fritz, lord of the printer

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving, writing Tagged With: book, jacquard

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