Tien Chiu

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You are here: Home / Archives for kodachrome jacket

March 24, 2011 by Tien Chiu 8 Comments

Presenting Kodachrome

Finally, the “official” photos are back!

Kodachrome jacket, front view
Kodachrome jacket, front view
Kodachrome jacket, rear view
Kodachrome jacket, rear view
Kodachrome hat/detail
Kodachrome hat
Kodachrome jacket, detail
Kodachrome jacket, detail

I’m debating which of the last two photos to send in as the “detail” view for the Handwoven garment contest.  I am leaning towards the first (the hat photo) – it has a pretty good close-up of the neck of the garment – but really like the way the pattern in the second photo just glows.

(These photos, by the way, are the work of uber-talented nature photographer Joe Decker, of Rock Slide Photography.  Get in touch with me if you live in the Bay Area and would like him to photograph your work – he does an AWESOME job!)

Later today I’ll write the official “page” for Kodachrome, and post it under “Finished Works”.  I will also finish re-hemming the lining, and do the official sewing-in of the label.  (That’s the last thing I do when finishing a project – a small ritual that says, “Yes, this is done, and I’m ready to sign it.”)

Woo hoo!  On to the next project!

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles, weaving Tagged With: kodachrome jacket

March 12, 2011 by Tien Chiu 2 Comments

Finishing touches

It took me a couple of days, but I finished prick-stitching the front edge to the piping, giving a neat, flat edge that runs precisely up to the piping.  I also graded and pressed the seams.  And what a difference!  Check it out:

hem, before and after
left of pin: prick stitched, seam graded, pressed; right, no treatment

See how flat the section to the left of the pin is, and how puffy the untreated section is?  Huge difference.  I will have to remember this for my next piece.

So now I am embarking on the last few pieces: adjusting sleeve length, putting in piping around the sleeve edges, and applying the sleeve lining.  But first I need to get the snaps sewn on correctly, which is giving me conniptions: I can’t seem to get the snaps sewn on so the stripes hang straight and there are no unsightly bulges.  I spent several frustrating hours fiddling with it last night, and will tackle it again this morning.  I got it working on a dress form…but then as soon as I put it on, found out that it didn’t work on a moving figure.  More testing, I guess!  Fortunately I am only basting on the snaps so removal is quick and easy.

And I have started exploring ideas for the next project.  I’ve spent several hours poring over the haute couture collections from the last few years (Style.com is a great resource there), and have been snipping all the interesting-looking photos into Evernote, my favorite (electronic) note-taking system.  Over the next week or two, I’m going to look through them, identify the design components that appeal to me, and try to come up with something that will look good on me, as opposed to an impossibly tall, skinny model.  I will probably only wear it a few times (for photography, and maybe for one or two fashion shows) but I want it to look good when I do.

I do have to scale down my visions somewhat, though.  I am missing a lot of basic skills needed to create the piece – for example, my pattern drafting skills need significant work before I can draft the pattern myself.  So I will have to ramp up on those before I’m prepared to tackle this project.  It also takes a long time to sew a couture garment (shades of the wedding-dress!), so if I want to finish the project in the next year, I’d better not design something too complicated.  There will be time for that once my skills improve.

And, finally, I am starting my shibori workshop this week!  Our first assignment is clamped-resist shibori.  I plan to tackle that on Sunday, after I finish modifying the jacket.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles Tagged With: kodachrome jacket

March 6, 2011 by Tien Chiu 5 Comments

Jacket and hat

I went up to Sharon’s today for the second to last time.  She made some adjustments, and pinned me into the jacket:

jacket and hat
jacket and hat

Aside from the fact that the hat looks like it is melting off my head, it looks good!  We still have to adjust the sleeve length (the correct length is on the arm with the watch), add the piping around the bottom of the sleeves, sew on the snaps, and do quite a bit of internal work (grading seams, finishing the hems, sleeve lining, etc.).  But it looks basically as it will when finished.

And I finally thought up a title that feels appropriate: Kodachrome.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles, weaving Tagged With: kodachrome jacket

March 4, 2011 by Tien Chiu 3 Comments

A hat! A most magnificent hat!

I was getting bored with understitching the facing (about halfway done now), so I took a couple hours out and made the hat!  Here it is:

Rainbow hat!
Rainbow hat!

I had to modify the pattern substantially to arrive at this hat, but I like it a lot.  It squishes down for a beret, or can be pulled up for a rainbow crown.  And I like the piping; it defines the boundaries and keeps it from disintegrating into a shapeless mass of color.

It’s not quite done yet – still needs the size adjusted and the lining put in – but the outer shell is done and it’s looking pretty good.  I’m happy with it.

Tomorrow I’m driving up to AVL to retrieve the loom (let’s hope it’s ready!), which will be great – I’d really like to get some weaving done!  My hands are itching to hold a shuttle.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles Tagged With: kodachrome jacket

March 2, 2011 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Handwork

The jacket is coming along nicely:

jacket, piping attached
jacket, partially finished

It’s amazing, how nicely the black piping around the edges defines the shape and rescues it from giant-blob-of-color-land.  I’m still considering whether I want piping around the shoulder seam, where the sleeve meets the body.  There will definitely be piping on the hem of the sleeve.

We are now down to the fussy hand-work.  I have finished putting the Hong Kong finish on the edge of the bottom facing, and am now understitching the facing.  By hand.

Why by hand, you ask?  Well, Sharon did tell me it would be OK to understitch by machine, but I thought it looked just awful:

Understitching by hand vs. by machine
Understitching by hand vs. by machine

The section to the left of the pin is done by machine.  See the ugly black line near the piping, and the way it rolls the bottom edge into an unsightly bulge?

The section to the right of the pin is understitched by hand.   No ugly line and no bulges.

After I finish understitching, I will grade the seams, press the garment, catchstitch the bottom facing into place, hem the lining, and put in the shoulder pads.  By the time I get to Sharon’s on Sunday, there should only be a few finishing touches left – the sleeve lining, deciding whether to put piping around the sleeve seam, and figuring out the fasteners.  So I think the jacket will be finished (cross fingers!) in about a week.

No progress on the hat (yet).  I’m planning to tackle it as soon as I finish the hand-work on the jacket.  Probably Friday, or Sunday morning.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles Tagged With: kodachrome jacket

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