Tien Chiu

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You are here: Home / Archives for network drafting

September 2, 2009 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

black jewel

Closeup of the center pattern for Black Jewel

This shawl, which is one of my favorites, is woven on a 2/28 nm silk warp dyed in 29 colors, with a black cashmere yarn of about the same weight as weft.  The colors are so close to each other that visually they are almost indistinguishable, producing a very nice gradual fade from turquoise to fuchsia and back again.

This kind of gradual color change has been so successful that I am embarking on a new adventure: dyeing a full color wheel in 60/2 silk, in gradually changing colors!  I estimate that it will take about 120 skeins to get all the way around the color wheel, but fortunately I have enough 60/2 silk on hand that I can do it.  Then I can REALLY play!

Pattern for Black Jewel A black-and-white rendition of the pattern for Black Jewel
An in-progress photo An in-progress photo. I love the way the colors look in the warp!
A closeup of the finished shawl Closeup of the center part of the shawl. (Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)
Entire "Black Jewel", full view
Another photo of the finished shawl. Another photo of the finished shawl. (Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: blue to fuchsia warp, gradient colors, network drafting

August 28, 2009 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Silk & cashmere jacket

jacket

This came off the same warp as the goldenrod shawl and the garnet shawl. I dyed some 2/28 nm silk yarn for warp and some 2/28 nm cashmere for weft. For the warp, I alternated 2″ stripes of chestnut brown and golden brown; the weft I dyed a deep shade of eggplant.

The draft was my first attempt at network drafting, for which I had lots of generous help from Bonnie Inouye. Network drafting is a technique for making curved patterns in fabric, made available to the handweaving community by Alice Schlein in her book Network Drafting: An Introduction. It produces complex, curvy patterns with very little effort, and generally produces a very stable cloth.

Weaving the fabric for the jacket was quite a challenge; one of my shafts kept “floating” and so there were numerous flaws in the finished fabric.  But aha, the magic of cutting and sewing: I simply cut around the flaws!  There are a few visible in the finished piece, but on the whole it looks quite nice, better than the fabric did!

I lined the jacket with silk charmeuse, dyed chestnut brown to match the warp.  The pattern is a Butterick pattern, but I don’t recall the pattern number.

Draft of the jacket pattern
A close-up of the finished fabric
A photo of the finished cloth.
jacket

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: network drafting

August 23, 2009 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

garnet shawl

Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads.

This shawl came out of the same warp as the goldenrod shawl and the silk and cashmere jacket.  I dyed some 2/28 nm silk yarn for warp and some 2/28 nm silk/cashmere for weft. For the warp, I alternated 2″³ stripes of chestnut brown and golden brown; the weft I dyed a deep garnet red.

The inspiration for this color came from a dear friend of mine, who is a Tibetan lama (very unusual for a Caucasian woman) and who had moved to India with her family.  I had offered her some mohair yarn in whatever shade she liked; she asked for a maroon or dark red, as that is the most appropriate shade for a Tibetan lama to wear.

So I mucked about in my dye samples, and finally decided to dye it using mostly red dye, with just a trace of turquoise to tone down the color.

I was absolutely shocked by the resulting shade: a glorious auburn red!  I hated to part with such beautiful yarn, but I had promised it, so I sent it on its way and promptly determined to dye some more!

This was one of my early attempts at network drafting, a very regular pattern resembling the overshot pattern called “orange peel”.  I still like the symmetry.

I beaded it with small amber beads and large garnet foil beads, but I have to warn you: those beads come off!  I’m constantly having to sew them back on.   Next time I use smaller beads!

Garnet weft shown with beads This is the garnet shawl in its preliminary stages, showing the beads
The garnet weft shown with the warp Another shot of the garnet weft placed against the warp.
Garnet shawl on the loom Half-woven garnet shawl. Here the pattern shows most clearly!
A large shot of the garnet shawl, showing the pattern. Larger photo of the garnet shawl
Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads. My garnet shawl, beaded.

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: network drafting

August 15, 2009 by Tien Chiu

goldenrod shawl

goldenrod pattern

This came off the same warp as the silk/cashmere jacket and the garnet shawl, and shares the same draft as the garnet shawl.  (I liked the pattern so much I wove a second one!)

Weaving this was a real challenge – for some reason, one of the shafts in my loom was floating, so there are many irregularities in the cloth.  For this reason, I didn’t show it at CNCH (my regional weaving conference), but I still think it’s pretty.

Draft for the project Computer simulation of the pattern, generated by weaving software.
Weft yarn The dyed cashmere/silk weft yarn, shown against the silk warp yarns.
goldenrod shawl on the loom. The shawl on the loom.
A photo of the shawl before wet-finishing A photo of the shawl before wet-finishing.

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: network drafting

January 13, 2009 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Yet more doodling with huck lace

Today I played in the tie-up.  I discovered that vertical and horizontal lines make, not too surprisingly, horizontal and vertical lines respectively.  Then I started playing around with curves, and realized that (in general) if you make your lines parallel to each other, they will produce “echoes” of each other, making for a pleasing, repeating pattern.

Here is a plain curve:

Network drafted huck lace with a single curve in the tie-up
Network drafted huck lace with a single curve in the tie-up

And here is the same with an echoed curve:

Network drafted huck lace with an echoed curve in the tie-up
Network drafted huck lace with an echoed curve in the tie-up

I like this look; it’s nicely organic.

Then I asked myself what would happen if you combine two different lines in the tie-up, like a curve with a diagonal.  The patterns superimposed on each other, leading to a more complex (and I think intriguing) design:

Network drafted huck lace with one curve and one line in the tie-up
Network drafted huck lace with one curve and one line in the tie-up

I then tried echoing the lines to see what would happen, and discovered that that way lies madness:

Network drafted huck lace with echoed curves and echoed lines in the tie-up
Network drafted huck lace with echoed curves and echoed lines in the tie-up

And that’s all I had time for.  Off to work!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: network drafting, weaving drafts

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