Tien Chiu

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January 22, 2024 by Tien Chiu 8 Comments

Painted warps and meet prep

My next class at the Handweaving Academy is going to be Designing Painted Warps. So of course I have a painted warp on Grace, and have been weaving samples in lots of structures, stripe patterns, and so forth. The nice thing about a jacquard loom is that you can weave any structure you like in any sett you like (up to the maximum sett for your configuration), without having to rethread or resley.

This vastly speeds up sampling. So far I’ve woven something like 25 samples, all in different structures and/or at different setts. On a shaft loom, that would probably have taken me 1-2 weeks at least. I did it in two days. Go Grace!!

Most of the samples are intended to be instructional rather than pretty, but here’s a quick snapshot of my favorite:

painted warp swatch with rainbow colors

I’ve still got another 7-8 yards of warp left – I may not weave the rest, though, as I may have enough to demonstrate my points already.

I am still replacing pistons on Grace, and have arrived at a dreadful conclusion. I have (surprisingly – what’s this common sense thing??) realized that perching on a stepladder, leaning way over into the loom, and doing fiddly stuff with both hands while trying to stay stable on the stepladder might not be the wisest thing to do. It’s certainly difficult and uncomfortable.

The more ergonomic and safer thing to do would be to remove the heddle kits from the loom, put the heddles on a table, and do all the fiddly piston-replacing stuff at my leisure, while seated in a nice, comfy position.

The only catch is: removing the heddle kits means rethreading. And I loathe rethreading. With the blazing fury of a thousand exploding suns. (Ask me how I really feel….)

On the other hand, not falling off a stepladder, contorting my body into cramped positions, or ruining my wrists does have a certain attractiveness.

So I’ve decided to remove the heddle kits from the loom, change out the pistons, and rethread. It will take time but it will also be (literally!) less painful than trying to change the pistons with everything in place.

For reasons too tedious to mention, that also means redoing the velvet warp from start to finish. I’m not wildly enthused about that but it does give me the opportunity to get the colors right, and maybe change some details of the configuration. C’est la vie.

Sometimes it feels like I’m taking two steps forward and eighteen steps back. But, as I keep telling myself, if you’re on an epic journey into uncharted territory, you have to expect to get lost in a swamp, fight off orcs and goblins, and eat frogs and lizards to survive the rougher bits. So cheer up! At least there are no orcs (yet!), and the food’s good, too. Onward ho!

Powerlifting-wise, I’m in the final stages of prep for my second-ever meet, which is this coming Saturday (January 27th). Last week was my last heavy-lifting week, lifting 290 pounds in squat, 145 in bench press, and 295 pounds in deadlift. Today and tomorrow are some super light weights, just to keep my muscles moving – 185 pounds for squats and 90 pounds for bench press (no deadlift). And then I do absolutely NO lifting for three days. That way I’ll be fully recovered, rested, and at full power going into the meet.

Interestingly, the California state record for women in my age/weight class (50-54, 181-198 pounds) is only 292 pounds for the squat. My personal record is 310 pounds, so breaking that record should be quite feasible as long as I don’t screw up. Fingers crossed!

I am still debating between two T-shirts to wear when not lifting:

orange and yellow tie-dye T-shirt with "I Powerlift Like a Girl" and lots and lots of rhinestones
T-shirt with "OLD LADIES LIFT" and the slogan "Age is inevitable - Weakness is not."

You gotta admit, it’s a tough choice. Which do you like best?

Filed Under: All blog posts, powerlifting, textiles, weaving Tagged With: painted warp

January 7, 2024 by Tien Chiu 6 Comments

A brand-new year of weaving (and cats!)

Happy New Year, everyone!

After a bunch of errors too tedious to mention, I’ve got Grace up and weaving. So far it’s just the painted warp, but I’m working on the other one, too.

Here are the 880 knots in this warp. I didn’t lose a single knot while pulling through, which is amazing. Score one (more) for the knotter!

Here’s the new warp. I’m using this one to weave samples for an upcoming class:

The samples I’m weaving right now are illustrating the effects of weft color choices, weft size, and thread density (sett). They’re pretty simple, but I’ll be progressing towards more complex ones soon.

The velvet warp is not going so smoothly. It is fully tied on (thank you, knotter!), but I did something not-entirely-smart when I started pulling through, and as a result am having to pull each thread through individually – twice. All 1,320 of them.

So of course I barged ahead. But after doing about 200 of them, I started getting tendinitis/irritation from the repeated pinch-and-pull motion. I have a powerlifting meet coming up in just under three weeks, and I am NOT going to miss it with an arm injury! So I have stopped work on the velvet warp until things are completely healed, and am going to be careful afterwards. And doing massage, stretching, flossing, etc. (lots of etc.) to help it heal quicker.

On the powerlifting front, my wrestling singlet has arrived. This is mandatory wear for powerlifting meets, probably meant as an equalizer – wearing one makes EVERYONE look terrible! They are one-piece, skin-tight Spandex from the mid-thigh up. Unless you’re Chris Hemsworth playing the young Thor (yum!), it will make you look fat and lumpy. BUT, powerlifting (unlike bodybuilding) isn’t about looks, but about strength. The singlet enables the judges to determine more easily whether a lift is legal, so there you go.

Of course, I’ve elected to customize mine. For some *cough* strange reason, nobody sells 100% cotton wrestling singlets intended for dyeing. (Can you believe that???) But you can get custom print jobs, so this is the singlet I’ll be competing in:

I do need to get it shortened, though – it was clearly designed for someone much taller than me, so instead of mid-thigh, it comes down to my knees! That’s not legal for competition, so a friend is helping me shorten it tomorrow.

I’m super excited about this upcoming meet. It will be my second powerlifting meet ever, and it’s hosted by the gym I train at, so it will be on familiar ground. I have two goals for this meet:

  1. lift as much as I can (a new PR – personal record – would be nice, but not necessary)
  2. qualify for USPA Drug-Tested Nationals 2024, to be held in Las Vegas June 24-29.

Qualifying for Nationals isn’t going to be hard, assuming I don’t fall completely on my face. To qualify for Nationals, I’d only have to total 634 pounds between squat, bench press, and deadlift. My personal bests currently total 780 pounds. So as long as I don’t bomb out completely, I should qualify.

Since you get three tries at each lift, I’m planning to start with something very conservative, then go to match my personal bests, and if I get that lift, I’ll try to set some new personal records for myself.

One of the nice things about being over 50 is that nobody is watching you. All the intense scrutiny is on the 20- and 30-somethings lifting 600+ pounds (and may I say that Stefi Cohen is AMAZING?? There’s nothing more compellingly attractive than a woman who can lift 4.5x her body weight!). So, no pressure, just the chance to have fun and set some personal records.

(OK, I DO want to set some national records, but that probably won’t happen for a few years, at least.)

That’s it for now, but I’ll leave you with the Best Cat Photo of 2023: Fritz and Tigress demonstrating the lost art of Yin-Yang napping!

two cats curled up next to each other, in perfect symmetry

Filed Under: All blog posts, powerlifting, textiles, weaving Tagged With: painted warp

May 5, 2019 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Painted warp samples

Sorry for the long silence! I’ve been prepping for a longish vacation – nine days visiting friends and family on the East Coast. Just finished four days visiting my best friend Edouard in New York City, and now en route to Maryland for another five days with family. I’ll return home Thursday.

Since I’ve had quite a bit of travel time, I’ve been spending some of it finishing up the painted warp samples for my upcoming talk at ANWG. The challenge was showing how warp and weft colors interact to produce the finished cloth – particularly when the colors aren’t solid, and I’m using multiple structures in the same swatch.

Fortunately, I always dye a few extra warp threads when painting a warp to make repairs easy, so I had a bundle of eight or nine leftover warp threads when I was done weaving. I tacked them down at the boundary between weave structures, and ran a bundle of weft threads across the swatch to show the weft colors. Like this:

painted warp swatch with a bundle of warp threads running vertically and a bundle of weft threads running horizontally
painted warp swatch

I think this shows off the warp and weft colors nicely, and the swatch shows how they weave up together, both in a complex design and in a simpler one.

This particular (8-shaft) draft blends colors quite a bit. I’m doing another set of samples that uses the same threading and the same colors, but a VERY different tie-up that keeps the warp and weft colors largely separate. It will produce a vastly different look. The point here is that people often focus on the color palette, when structure is just as important. The color palette determines what color blends are possible, but structure controls what color blends actually appear, and what blends appear in which area.

I wove a surprisingly large number of samples on this warp. It was a 14-yard warp, and I got 32 samples out of it. I’ll be doing another 32 samples in an identical color palette using the other structure, which – added to the 20-odd samples that Laura Fry already wove for me – will give me about 80-90 painted warp samples for my seminar. I plan to weave another 50-60 for the online course I’m developing, but not until I get back from ANWG.

Here (purely for the eye candy) are a few more painted warp samples:

painted warp swatch in pinks and purples
painted warp swatch with dark blue mottled warp and pale pink weft
mottled blue painted warp with pale blue weft

The last two swatches demonstrate the interplay/trade-off between woven pattern and dyed pattern. In the blue swatch with pale pink weft, the high contrast between warp and weft makes the woven pattern quite prominent. So you don’t see much of the pattern dyed into the warp; it becomes a textural background to the pattern woven into the cloth.

In the blue swatch with the lighter blue warp, the warp and weft have much less contrast, so the pattern dyed into the warp is much clearer. But you can still see structural effects. The dyed pattern is much clearer in areas where the woven pattern is simplest. At top right, the simple zigzag makes it easier to appreciate the mottled blue dye job than at bottom left, where the diamonds push the blue mottling into the background as a textural effect. Neither effect is wrong – just different. Knowing how your design decisions play out in the finished cloth makes you a more effective designer.

I’ve been having a lot of fun looking at and analyzing my samples. Not just pretty cloth – informative experiments! Art science at its best. 🙂

More details and registration for my ANWG seminar on the conference website:
http://www.anwgconference2019.com/

Filed Under: All blog posts, dyeing, textiles, weaving Tagged With: painted warp

March 9, 2019 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Science, hypothesis testing, and painted warp samples

I’m teaching two classes in June, at ANWG – a workshop on color mixing and a seminar on how to choose colors and weave structures for painted warps. (You can register for either of them here. Friday’s morning’s talk on painted warps is already full, but last I heard there were still spaces in the workshop and in the afternoon seminar.)

Since I’ve been too foggy-headed to do much work on Color Study #5 for the workshop, and I need to create some more examples for the painted warp seminar, I’ve been brainstorming painted warp samples instead.

I already have one set of samples, which Laura Fry wove for me, and which are winging their way to me as I write. They are woven on a warp that I had previously dyed in rainbow colors, in a variety of structures and with carefully chosen weft colors, and are lovely:

first set of painted warp samples, woven by Laura Fry
first set of painted warp samples

However, since I didn’t plan out the warp colors in advance, they don’t fully demonstrate the principles that I want to illustrate. So a second set of samples will be needed.

There are two approaches to sampling. The first is the exhaustive, information-gathering approach. This is where you have no hypothesis and are trying to develop one by gathering data, so you try every possible combination and then develop a theory to fit the data. (Cue 1,500 dye samples.) This is incredibly labor-intensive, but sometimes it’s got to be done.

I had originally planned to take this approach to painted warp sampling, because I didn’t have a solid theoretical basis for color. I thought up all the color and weave structure combinations that I thought would be useful to try, and came up with about 1,500 of them. Clearly this was not going to fly.

Fortunately, after another year and a half of study, plus teaching the first half of the Color Courage for Weavers Workshop course (it’s amazing how much more you learn through teaching), I now have a solid understanding of how color works in weaving. Very solid. I won’t claim to understand everything about color (nobody ever understands everything about anything), but at this point I think I understand enough about color in weaving to solve almost all the common color problems in weaving, or explain why the problem isn’t resolvable. (As in physics, no matter how much you know, you still can’t do the impossible.)

Since I now know more, I can take the other approach to sampling, which is testing a hypothesis. This is where you say “I think X will happen if I do Y, and will do a sample to see if this is true.”

So now I’m formulating samples to demonstrate known principles, rather than doing samples in order to figure out the principles.

Suddenly, I’ve gone from 1,500 samples to 44. Whew!!

Here are some of the principles I’m planning to demonstrate:

  • Warps with a wide range of values (i.e., that contain light, medium, and dark values) will make pattern appear/disappear in areas, no matter what weft is chosen.
  • Warps with a narrower range of values (i.e. all light, all medium, all dark, or combinations of any two) can be made to have bold or subtle pattern depending on choice of weft colors and weave structure.
  • Warps made with colors that fall between two primaries (primaries here are cyan (turquoise), magenta, and yellow) will allow you to choose a weft that preserves the bright colors while blending with everything else – warps that don’t, will blend into duller colors if woven in a structure that blends colors.
  • If your colors blend into dull colors, choosing a weave structure that separates warp and weft colors as much as possible (by creating warp dominant and weft dominant areas but not 50-50 mixes) will allow you to preserve the bright colors in your painted warp.
  • To show off painted warps, use a weft that is the same darkness or darker – a lighter weft will tend to draw attention to itself, pushing the painted warp into the background.

The ANWG seminar will likely form the nucleus for an online course about weaving with painted warps. It probably won’t be released for awhile yet, though – I’m planning to revamp my Color Courage for Weavers online course offerings and the painted warp course will definitely have to wait until after that work is done.

I’ve chosen the colors for the samples and am currently debating drafts. The simplest choice would be a plain twill plus twill blocks, which would probably resonate with students who prefer simpler structures. The twill would demonstrate what happens when you pick a structure that blends colors, and the twill blocks would demonstrate what happens when you mix colors. Simple and neat.

However, I’ve woven miles of twill and twill blocks for my other samples, and I’m desperately bored of both structures. I also want to demonstrate that you can weave sexier structures than those. So I’m thinking of using these two drafts, which I was using to demonstrate optical mixing and simultaneous contrast in my Color Courage for Weavers Workshop course a few weeks ago.

Here’s the first draft, from Handweaving.net (contributed by an anonymous visitor). It demonstrates what happens when you blend colors:

Handweaving.net draft #45549, contributed by an anonymous visitor

And here is the same draft with a different tie-up, demonstrating keeping colors separate:

The same draft, but with a bolder twill tie-up

Kathy Fennell (one of the course participants) wove up both drafts, and they look quite nice in real life. They need very different setts, of course, but they look good enough that I think they would work to demonstrate the principles. And it’s a nice touch that they are the same design, except that one is subtle and the other bold.

The only thing I worry about is that they will look too complex and will intimidate some students. And 44 samples in that one weave structure is a LOT! Perhaps I will rethread to something different, halfway through.

Meanwhile, the cold is starting to improve, so I’ll be back at work on Color Study 5 for Color Courage for Weavers – Workshop later today.

Color Study 5 is about visual complexity/busy-ness, which is basically how much effort it takes for the brain to take in/process a piece. It’s a juicy topic, and I’m starting with an explanation of how the brain processes an image – any image. Which, in turn, starts with some observations about what our visual system evolved to do. It’s really cool stuff.

For example, our eyes are irresistibly attracted to areas of high contrast, particularly light/dark contrast. Our eyes go to areas of high contrast first, and as designers we need to be aware of that/take advantage of that in when designing, to focus the eye where we want it. But why is that? It’s because the eye is physically built for edge detection, finding and signaling edges before data even goes to the brain. The stronger the contrast, the louder the signal. That’s because early detection of edges helps the brain distinguish pattern from ground (objects from background) faster. And that, in turn, enables us to detect food and predators faster and more efficiently.

There are other factors related to our evolution that affect how we view an object, and how the brain processes what we see. That, in turn, influences how we need to design.

Do my students need to know all that information about human evolution before they can design effectively? Technically, no. I could just list off the important factors and tell them to design using those factors. But I believe that giving them the why is important, because it enables them to do more than memorize – it enables them to think for themselves, to reason about other factors that I may not be giving them. For example, if they encounter a diagonal line, they might say, “Aha! And how would the primitive brain react to diagonal lines in nature? What diagonal lines might it encounter?” and get insight from that.

When I was sixteen, I went to a summer program that taught the process of mathematics – not just facts, but the intellectual explorations involved in doing mathematical research. The motto of the program was “Think deeply of simple things.”

And that’s how I approach teaching – not just what, but also why.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, Warp & Weave, weaving Tagged With: painted warp

June 20, 2011 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Site outage and temples

You may have noticed that the site was down for most of yesterday, the result of a botched DNS update.  I’ve corrected things and everything should be OK now, but please let me know if anything else looks wonky.

Despite a trying day yesterday, I did manage to get some things done this weekend:

  • threaded, sleyed, and tied on the painted warp
  • wove a short header, and am currently debugging the painted warp
  • set up my new copy stand for photographing/”scanning” the magazines

I also experimented with a wooden temple.  Up until now, I’ve been using paperclip temples, but someone suggested that a wooden temple works better.  So I bought one and am using it on my warp, like so:

trying out the wooden temple
trying out the wooden temple

Thus far I think I like the paperclip temples better – the wooden temple is trickier to place and blocks my view of the fabric – but I am persevering, because these things often get  better with practice, and I think it probably does do a better job of holding the fabric edges out to reduce draw-in.

I am also pleased to say that the registration marks seem to be working out nicely.  Here is the warp on the loom:

registration marks on warp
registration marks on warp

Right now they are nicely lined up, and so is the warp.  We’ll see what it looks like after some more weaving – last time I had trouble with the bouts “taking up” at different rates.  I think I’ve fixed that problem, but only a test run will say for sure.  Fortunately, I had the foresight to leave plenty of warp at the beginning for testing – nearly a yard of white warp that I can weave up as a test.

Plans for this week: do the sampling and take the various measurements necessary to create the knitted blank; knit up two blanks, one for each panel; start scanning the magazines.  I am deliberately not planning on doing much weaving, because someone is coming by on Saturday to see my loom (she is thinking of purchasing an AVL WDL).  I’m not sure what she will think of the Frankenloom that is currently set up (with the trapeze, live-weight tension, LED loom lighting, enlarged back beam, etc., mine is not exactly a factory-configured AVL), but she should be able to weave on it and get a feel for how the AVL WDL works and how it fits her body.  Which is at least 50% of what matters.

Anyway, because she is coming over, I don’t want to weave up the entire sampling section of the warp before she arrives – that way she can play to her heart’s delight without worrying about screwing up anything “real”.

And now, off to prep for work!  Today’s the first day of my new job, and it will be interesting to see what transpires.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor, painted warp

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