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March 27, 2012 by Tien Chiu 4 Comments

More mockups

I went back to my mood board and picked out a couple of photos that appealed to me.  I still liked my original mockup with the textured bodice and the “ragged” skirt, but I wanted to try out a few ideas for the shoulders, neckline, and sleeves.  Here is my current favorite (which still needs a lot of work):

new mockup, with bell sleeves and V-neck
new mockup, with bell sleeves and V-neck

I am not crazy about the bell sleeves, but they are better than the other things I’ve been considering.  I like the sleeves because they suggest wings, but they also draw the eye downwards, whereas (in my opinion) the rest of the outfit is traveling up.  The eye lands on the bright yellow/orange skirt, then travels up to the red bodice, giving a feel of fire traveling upwards.  Then it hits the sleeves and the direction changes suddenly.  Very distracting.  Of course, it may play out better on an actual person, because when looking at a person, the eye is drawn immediately to the face, in which case it would be traveling down, not up.  But still, I’m not wild about it, though it’s the best of the mockups I’ve made.

Here are some of the other things I tried, and the reasons I don’t think they work:

mockup with shoulder wings
mockup with shoulder wings

This doesn’t work because the wings look stiff and pointy, while the rest of the garment flows smoothly and softly.  Also, the wings establish a horizontal line up top that is totally at odds with the straight up/down flow of the rest of the garment.  It also suggests a triangle, which is what I tried next, with disastrous results:

combined mockup with shoulder wings and pointed bodice
combined mockup with shoulder wings and pointed bodice

Here the hard, feathered feel is totally at odds with the soft drape of the skirt – it feels rather like a muscular, butch heroine on top, and a sappy romance heroine on bottom.  Yuck!

Then I tried adding long, flowing sleeves, which is how I arrived at the bell sleeves:

combined mockup, bell sleeves, high neck
combined mockup, bell sleeves, high neck

The bell sleeves aren’t so bad, but the high neck was a real problem; now it “feels” to me like the wearer is choking.

So I put a V-neck on it, which I liked better and which is my current working mockup (it’s the one at the top of this post).  I’m still not satisfied – wondering the bell sleeves would be better if made a little more textured in flavor (there’s a smoothness to the sleeves that is not echoed anywhere else in the piece)  and maybe made a little shorter, about waist-length, so it doesn’t compete with the rest of the garment.

Finally, here is the one other effect that I really like, but can’t figure out how to integrate: the loose, flowing overskirt that billows out as the wearer walks.  I think it’s totally incompatible with the draped folds, though it might make an interesting cape or something.  (I keep thinking of the X-men superheroine Phoenix, though I don’t believe she wears a cape.)

Anyway, I haven’t arrived at a design I really like yet, so time to mull over things (and contemplate my mood board) some more.  It’s still in gestation, and I expect to go through a lot of design changes before I’m done.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles Tagged With: design, phoenix rising

March 26, 2012 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Mood board

Because I was having trouble organizing my thoughts around Phoenix Rising, I decided to try making a mood board.  This is basically a collage that represents your thoughts, ideas, and feelings about the project.  I’d never made one before, but because most of my ideas were from photos, I thought something graphical might help.  I took a bunch of images that I had culled from various sources (mostly Google Image search, study group samples, and couture shows) and printed them out, then cut them up and arranged them into this (click for the larger version):

mood board
mood board

What I learned from this exercise:

  • For this piece, the skirt is what is most important to me – nearly 1/3 of the photos were of skirts that I found interesting.
  • Of course, that means that I haven’t devoted nearly enough time to the bodice, sleeves, etc. – so I will have to think those through carefully and maybe do a second mood board for the top half of the garment!
  • Feathery looks are most important to me (they comprise most of the middle of the board)
  • The phoenix in dead center is my inspiration photo – soft and subtle, as opposed to the more dramatic renditions.  (We’ll see how long that lasts, though, with my penchant for drama!)
  • I’m also fascinated by textures – crinkly, feathery, etc.

Here is the somewhat-annotated version of the mood board:

annotated mood board
annotated mood board

The turquoise circle represents one set of skirt conceptions – soft and feathery, which goes well with the renditions of feathers in the red circle below it.  The bright blue in top right shows another skirt concept – billowy and airy, with lots of movement – and the yellow-orange at top left shows two other skirt options.  I moved the yellow-orange circle options off to the side because they don’t look soft enough – almost scaly – and so I probably won’t use them, but I’m not sure enough of that to remove them from the mood board entirely.

The purple on bottom right shows some textures I’d like to capture in the fabric – mostly collapse weaves (one by Betsy Blumenthal and one by Diane Smith) and other heavily textured fabrics.  Because I clearly want a light, airy skirt with lots of movement, these will likely go on the bodice (if I use them at all).

The green circle at bottom left shows another interpretation of feathers, this time a little more hard-edged.  I may integrate this patterning into the soft, billowy fabric.  Or I may not.  Not sure.

And, finally, the orange circle at center left shows one possibility for the shoulders – little “wings” that project outward from the shoulders.  Gotta lose the vinyl pants, though.  🙂

And, a few updates on various items:

  • Su was kind enough to tell me that unless rayon chenille has a non-cellulose core thread (i.e. one that will not burn out), the burned-out ends will tend to work their way out of the fabric with repeated handling/washing.  Bonnie also helpfully pointed out that dry cleaning can also result in worming.  So I tested my devore sample by running it through the wash a few times, and yes, the chenille does work its way out eventually.  This means my devore idea won’t work unless I can find a synthetic-core rayon chenille.  So far I haven’t found one, so I’m putting the idea on hold.  Phoenix Rising isn’t going to get a lot of hard use, but I’d like to use a more durable fabric for it.
  • Wrote another 1500 words on the book over the weekend, and another 300 or so this morning.  I’ve decided that unless I make it a priority, I’m never going to finish it.  So I’ve decided to work on it for a minimum of 30 minutes every morning, right after I wake up.  I can work on it for longer, of course, but I will spend at least half an hour writing.  Hopefully that should keep me on track.
  • I managed to print out the labels for my surface design experiments yesterday.  I’ll cut them up whenever I have time.
  • I’ve concluded that I have too many projects on my plate at the moment: tie-dyeing T-shirts, the book, Phoenix Rising, quilting class, and systematic surface design samples.    It’s frustrating because I feel like I’m not making progress on anything.  So I think I’m going to focus on the short-term items first: finishing my quilt blocks for class, tie-dyeing the T-shirts will be first on the priority list.  I’ll continue working on the book 1/2 hour a day, though, and I’ll work on Phoenix Rising during the week, when it’s hard to do tie-dye (I need a solid chunk of time for that.)  The surface design samples will have to wait until the quilt blocks and T-shirts are done.  It’s OK.  They can wait.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles, weaving Tagged With: phoenix rising

March 24, 2012 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Attempted devore with flame pattern

Here is the results of my burnout attempts (not very impressive yet, I’m afraid!):

flames - first devore attempt
flames - first devore attempt

Here I attempted to apply the devore paste from the back, and as you can see, it was less than successful – this was meant to be a circle, but even after much enthusiastic scrubbing the chenille did not come off completely. Either I did not heat it enough for the burnout to happen, or the devore paste did not penetrate the fabric enough to burn out the chenille.  Maybe a bit of both.

However, this raggedy sample is still super-valuable as a “proof-of-concept”: the chenille does burn away to reveal the pattern beneath, and the devore paste does not affect the colors (something I was worried about earlier).  The rest of it will be a matter of working out how to apply the devore paste, how much thickener to add, etc.  And experimenting with shibori and other kinds of bound resist.

My plans for this weekend have mostly been turned upside down by the weather – I had been planning to do a lot of surface design experiments, but it’s forecast to rain all weekend.  Rats.  It rains so seldom here (especially in this dry winter) that I’m always surprised when it happens – it’s not a bad thing, because we badly need rain this year, but it’s certainly inconvenient for working outdoors.

Instead, my plans are:

  • weave more samples for devore, to be burned-out whenever it stops raining
  • make more quilt blocks for my class
  • finish off entry applications for CNCH and New Fibers 2012
  • screen print, cut, and apply my labels
  • get back to work on the book

Not a whole lot of excitement for the weekend, but maybe that’s a good thing.  The house closes in mid-April, so between mid-April and mid-May (when we move in) there will be an awful lot of packing to do!

Filed Under: All blog posts, surface design, textiles, weaving Tagged With: devore, phoenix rising

March 23, 2012 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Flames fabric

I sneaked home at lunchtime.  Here is the flame fabric, pre-devore (sorry for the slightly blurry photos):

reverse side of silk fabric
reverse side of fabric (silk-dominant)

 

chenille-dominant side of flame fabric
chenille-dominant side of flame fabric

The pattern is clearly visible on the reverse side, but from the front side it looks like solid chenille.  This is by design; later tonight I’ll burn out the chenille, applying the burnout chemical from the back (so I can see the pattern in the finished cloth, and also so the burnout chemical doesn’t have to penetrate all that fuzz).  Fortunately I have a respirator with acid-gas cartridges on hand; those fumes are not good for your lungs!

Filed Under: All blog posts, surface design, textiles, weaving Tagged With: devore, phoenix rising

March 19, 2012 by Tien Chiu 4 Comments

Concept drawing

I spent a good chunk of yesterday going through various fashion books and my study group samples, looking for ideas.  Fortunately the Fine Threads study group is pretty big, so in just three years of membership I had over a hundred samples to peruse!  And then I have started collecting fashion books and clipping pictures from the haute couture shows, so I am slowly amassing quite a collection of fashion ideas.

I started by clipping all the interesting-looking bits into my Evernote notebook.  Then I went through them and wrote down all the things I liked (or didn’t like) about the piece.  Then I jotted down some of the ideas/thoughts/feelings that went through my head as I thought about the piece.  And then I went back and looked at the ideas again.

Here are the two fashion plates I liked best:

another Alexander McQueen design
an Alexander McQueen design
an Alexander McQueen design
another Alexander McQueen design

The bodice of the first, if converted to red/orange/gold, would make beautiful “flames”.  The devore would be fairly simple (I think) – rayon chenille on a 60/2 silk tabby ground – and well worth trying.  On the second ensemble, I liked the skirt, which (converted to yellows and oranges) would capture the feel of fire.

I then drafted up a Photoshop mockup to see roughly what it would look like:

Combined mockup using Photoshop
Combined mockup using Photoshop

I like this idea a lot, and will work on making it a reality.  I may do the phoenix in devore, or I may change the title to “Fire” and just do it without the phoenix imagery.

The real challenge to the outfit is the bottom.  The fabric is very light and sheer, meaning the handwoven fabric should also be light and sheer.  Which means a godawful amount of yardage in superfine silk.  But I have over five pounds of 140/2 silk that Lillian Whipple was kind enough to sell me, and that should be more than enough to get me over the learning curve of working with such fine silk.  Now I just have to drape a mockup of the skirt to figure out how heinous an amount of yardage would be involved (and how much hemming!).  If it’s more than twenty yards of 24″ fabric, the deal is off.  I think I could weave 20 yards of 140/2 silk, if I kept at it and ate it in small bits.  More than that seems pretty daunting.  I’ll weave a sample beforehand, of course.  I could also weave it in 60/2 silk, but then the fabric might be too heavy.

Since I still have fifteen-ish yards of white 60/2 silk on the loom, I think the next step is to do some experiments with rayon chenille and devore.  There is quite a bit of experimentation I can do, so I better start dyeing!  This will be super exciting.

I think it’s also time for me to get back to my draping exercises.  I could draft the bodice as a flat pattern, but the skirt will need to be draped, probably in a sheer fabric.  Which means getting my act together and learning how to drape things properly.

Whew!  What a lot to do.  It’s a good thing I have almost two years to the next Convergence.

Filed Under: All blog posts, dyeing, sewing, surface design, textiles, weaving Tagged With: phoenix rising

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