Tien Chiu

  • Home
  • About Tien
  • C.V.
  • Online Teaching
  • Works
  • Essays
  • Travels
  • Book
  • Blog
  • Dye samples
You are here: Home / Archives for taquete

September 1, 2010 by Tien Chiu 3 Comments

Peacock feathers, round 2

I changed the original design for the peacock feathers to include more solid black between the feathery parts.  Here’s how it came out (look at the bottom row for the best view, as the top row still has the top part of the previous version):

handwoven peacock feathers, round 2
handwoven peacock feathers, round 2

Contrast this with Round 1:

handwoven peacock feather design, in five-weft taquete
handwoven peacock feather design, in five-weft taquete

The new version looks much better, more feathery and less blobby.

Lillian (thanks Lillian!) made an excellent point when she said that the back side would not be the reverse of the front side, hence (possibly) not suitable for a shawl.  (I am pretty sure the drape will be OK, as the four-weft taquete came out very fluid.)  I’m still turning over various possibilities for lining the shawl – the main problem being how to attach the two fabrics together without losing the drape or spending 40 hours catchstitching them together – but it seems unlikely to succeed, at least for now.

(Those of you jumping up and down, waving your hands excitedly, and saying, “Stitched double weave!” are quite correct – that would give me one layer of plainweave to hide the bottom layer of the taquete, and I could then decorate the plainweave, if desired, using surface design techniques.  The only small problem is that I’d have to resley at double the sett, since it is a doubleweave, which in turn means re-beaming, re-threading, re-sleying, oh, heck, just do a different warp.  (Not to mention, six shuttles!)  So, I may try this at some point, but not on this warp.)

This leaves me the interesting question of what to do with the fabric.  The pattern is really too assertive (and too large) to use in clothing, and taquete is too delicate to use in something like cushions.  A wall hanging it’s not.  So it’s hard to think of what to do with the fabric, except decorative stuff like Christmas cards, and I’m not sure where peacock feathers fit into Christmas cards.  I feel like I’m all dressed up with no place to go!

While I’m pondering this quandary, I received a cross-stitch sampler book in the mail yesterday.  Someone (I’m afraid I don’t remember who) suggested to me that cross-stitch samplers are a great place to get design motifs, because the individual components of the sampler are so small.  Indeed ’tis so, so I will probably weave up some butterflies (suitably adapted for taquete) and other small figures over the next few days as I contemplate what to do with my taquete fabric.

Meanwhile, I have just finished dyeing another set of samples, so look for Color Wheel #3 sometime soon…

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: peacock feather shawl, taquete, tied weaves

August 31, 2010 by Tien Chiu 2 Comments

Peacock feathers

I spent part of yesterday browsing through the drafts on Handweaving.net, looking for inspiration.  One of the drafts looked a little like peacock feathers, and that struck me as a fruitful subject: it would turn one of the disadvantages of multiweft taquete, the fact that the colors on the bottom show through, into a major plus.  Peacock feathers are iridescent! so having small glints of the other colors showing would be perfect.

So I looked at a bunch of peacock feather images, took one, resized it, indexed the color, and then did a LOT of editing in Photoshop to produce this result:

Photoshop simulation of peacock feather design
Photoshop simulation of peacock feather design

It has seven shades: black, dark green (green + black), light green, bronze, turquoise, purple, and dark purple (purple + black).  As much as I wanted a four-shuttle weave, I just couldn’t reduce to four weft colors without losing something important.  So this is a five shuttle weave.

Then I did the extensive manipulations necessary to produce a weavable file, producing this drawdown:

peacock feather drawdown
peacock feather drawdown

And then, of course, I wove it up:

handwoven peacock feather design, in five-weft taquete
handwoven peacock feather design, in five-weft taquete

I like it, tentatively, though I will probably modify the design to eliminate the dark green.  There is very little visible difference between the dark green and the light green (I should have remembered this), so my intended feathery effect turned into a green blob.  I will instead make the black go further into the green sections, producing the desired feathery effect.

Is this not a miracle of modern software?  From idea to simulation to drawdown to woven fabric, all in just one day.

As a five-shuttle weave, it is quite slow.  So far it is coming out at 90 ppi, and about 4.8 seconds/pick, so it looks like I can weave just about 8″ per hour.  Again, time-consuming but not insurmountable – that’s 10 hours of weaving to do an 80″ shawl, about a week of work.

Next up: experiment with some variations.  I want to simulate it with thin purple stripes lengthwise between the feathers, and change the design so the feather edges are “feathered” with black rather than green/black.  I also want to experiment with using a strand of glitter either in the blue or  the purple, though I think that is probably gilding the lily.

If I like the results from that, it will be time to weave up the shawl!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: peacock feather shawl, taquete, tied weaves

August 29, 2010 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Finished handwoven taquete samples

Yesterday I wove up the rest of the bookmark.  I also had the delight of discovering eight partial cones of cashmere yarn from Colourmart on my doorstep when I returned from shopping!  If you aren’t familiar with Colourmart, they specialize in remainders from the top Italian (etc.) mills – you can get top-quality cashmere, silk, merino, and occasionally alpaca, mohair, and even vicuna yarns from them at less than 50% of retail.  If you order large quantities, sometimes you can get discounts even on their already-discounted prices.

Anyway, I had written Richard and his happy crew asking if I could have some of his “odds ‘n ends” from the 2/72 nm and 2/46 nm.  So I got eight partial cones, four of each weight, all in different colors.

And I wove up this rendition of the chrysanthemum, using the 2/72 nm cashmere:

handwoven taquete, cashmere chrysanthemums
handwoven taquete, cashmere chrysanthemums

Much more subtle than the versions woven in brighter colors:

japanese crests, handwoven taquete
japanese crests, handwoven taquete

The first two crests are woven in rayon machine embroidery thread, the third (top) one is woven in a tencel/silk mix at 12,000 yards per pound.  You can see that the machine embroidery thread, while beautiful, is a little too fine: the crest, which is supposed to come out circular, is more of a flattened oval.  The tencel/silk mix, on the other hand, is too thick, stretching the circle into a long ellipse.  The 2/72 cashmere is almost precisely correct, only slightly flattened.  I have the feeling that 60/2 silk would be just perfect.

And here are the bookmarks:

handwoven taquete bookmarks, front
handwoven taquete bookmarks, front
handwoven taquete bookmarks, back
handwoven taquete bookmarks, back

I rather like the back; it doesn’t have the high contrast between puzzle pieces and background, but it has a cheery colorfulness that appeals to me.  But then, I like color.

The drape of the taquete pieces is very supple, and it has enough body to make a decorative shawl.  The cashmere is, as expected, super soft.  I’m pretty sure I won’t weave up the 2/72 nm cashmere into a shawl, but I’m wondering whether the 2/46 nm cashmere would work.  I think it is likely too thick, but it comes in lots of fairly bright colors, so is more appealing as a choice.  Silk might work out better, especially since I have loads of silk.  I’m also negotiating for some white silk tram (a VERY loosely twisted reeled silk) and may get some in a few weeks.  The stuff isn’t very durable (tends to fuzz) but it is very pretty, maybe good for a decorative shawl that doesn’t get worn all the time.

Anyway, I am pleased with my first taquete samples – now I’m just groping for a design that catches my fancy sufficiently to weave up some yardage!  I am getting the hang of weaving with four shuttles, so am working at about double or even triple my initial speed – I’m guessing about 8″ per hour.  That is still fairly slow – a 72″ shawl would take me about 9 hours of weaving time – but by no means impossible.  I think I could do it in about a week.

Dye-wise, I have a bit of a conundrum.  I have finished my second batch of samples, but I am suffering from what I suspect may be a little bit of RSI (repetitive stress injury, for the curious) in my left arm.  As a result, I’m trying to avoid doing things with my left arm, which makes winding the cards difficult.  At the same time, I really really really want to see how close my new samples are, so I do want to wind at least a couple of cards.  I think I may approach it in five or ten minute chunks, with frequent breaks, and quit if I start having any discomfort whatsoever.  RSI is nothing to be trifled with – I have friends who have literally had to quit their jobs because of it.  And while I’m not as high-risk as, say, a software engineer, I still do a lot of typing in my profession.  So I am trying to take things easy.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: taquete, tied weaves

August 26, 2010 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Woven puzzle sampler

I finished weaving the puzzle sampler last night, and have been examining it closely this morning, as the results are quite interesting.  Here is a photo, which you would be well advised to click and take a closer look at (warning: it’s about 1 MB, so if you’re on dialup, that may take awhile):

photo of puzzle-piece handwoven taquete sampler
photo of puzzle-piece handwoven taquete sampler

Several things strike me as interesting here:

First, coverage is significantly better with two wefts and at its best with three wefts.  The black weft largely does not show in mixes, though it does darken the tone slightly (see the two magenta center pieces; the bottom one is a single strand of magenta, the one in the middle of the sampler has one strand of magenta and one of black, and is slightly darker in tone as a result).  I will weave up another sampler, removing the black, to get a better idea of blended effects.

Once you get up to three wefts on top (one on bottom), some interesting color effects start happening.  In the top middle piece, the outer edges are reddish purple and the interior is yellow-orange.  Why?  It’s because, in the adjoining pieces, the yellow weft is on bottom.  In the transition to the multicolor puzzle piece, yellow starts out mostly underneath the red, then transitions to being mostly on top of the red.  The result is multiple colors.  This does not seem to be consistent, though, as it doesn’t show up in all three-color puzzle pieces.  Obviously there is something happening here which I don’t fully understand, but one thing is fairly obvious: you cannot use three wefts on top and one on bottom and expect all three wefts to show consistently.  One will tend to slide under the others and be less visible.

So I have learned a lot in just a few short hours!

Now I will finish the bookmarks (which are essentially two repetitions of the sampler) and then weave the sampler again, this time with a different color (green?) instead of the black.  I want to get a better idea of what happens in three-color blends and it is difficult to do that when one of your wefts disappears!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: taquete, tied weaves

August 25, 2010 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Better pictures of the puzzle sampler

I woke up this morning and realized that some sections of the puzzle sampler draft look identical, because of my choice of colors for that draft.  Here is a better rendition:

puzzle sampler for taquete, revised colors
puzzle sampler for taquete, revised colors

And here is a closeup (click to see the full version), so you can see what’s going on.  The first four puzzle pieces are a single weft, the next six are all combinations of two wefts, and the last four are three wefts on top.  Should make for interesting weaving – if I choose my colors carefully!

closeup of puzzle sampler for handwoven taquete
closeup of puzzle sampler

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: taquete, tied weaves

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • Next Page »

Archives

Tags

aids lifecycle outfits autumn splendor book cashmere coat cats celtic braid coat color study cross dyeing design design class devore doubleweave doubleweave shawls drawing dye samples dye study group gradient colors house infinite warp jacquard loom katazome knitted blanks kodachrome jacket ma's memorial mohair coat network drafted jacket/shawl project network drafting painted warp phoenix rising phoenix rising dress phoenix rising kimono phoenix rising reloaded pre-weavolution project sea turtles taquete tie-dye tied weaves tomatoes velvet weaving drafts web design website redesign wedding wedding dress woven shibori

Categories

  • Africa
  • aids lifecycle
  • All blog posts
  • All travel posts
  • Asia
  • Bangkok
  • Belize
  • Cambodia
  • Central America
  • Chai Ya (Wat Suon Mok)
  • Chiang Mai
  • Chiang Rai (Akha)
  • China
  • chocolate
  • computer stuff
  • creating craft
  • Creative works
  • cycling
  • Delhi
  • Dharamsala
  • drawing
  • dyeing
  • Fiber Arts
  • finished
  • food
  • garden
  • Ghana
  • Guatemala
  • Hanoi
  • Ho Chi Minh City
  • Hoi An
  • India
  • Khao Lak
  • knitting
  • Knitting
  • Ko Chang
  • Laos
  • Luang Namtha
  • Luang Prabang
  • markleeville death ride
  • meditations on craft
  • mental illness
  • musings
  • Phnom Penh
  • powerlifting
  • Rewalsar (Tso Pema)
  • sewing
  • Siem Reap (Angkor Wat)
  • Southeast Asia
  • surface design
  • textiles
  • Thailand
  • travel
  • Vangvieng
  • Vientiane
  • Vietnam
  • Warp & Weave
  • weaving
  • Weaving
  • weavolution
  • writing

© Copyright 2025 Tien Chiu · All Rights Reserved ·

Loading Comments...