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December 23, 2008 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Another pretty

Inspired by your comments, I decided to play around with Celtic knots (as opposed to Celtic braids) this morning.  Several hours of experimentation produced this:

A 26-shaft (but probably reducible to 24-shaft) Celtic knot weaving draft
A 26-shaft (but probably reducible to 24-shaft) Celtic knot weaving draft

Technically it’s 26 shafts (92 treadles if you express it in treadles) but because of the symmetry I am fairly certain it’s reducible to 24 shafts (possibly even fewer!).  I wouldn’t be able to sample it on straight draw threading, which is what I’m using for my sample, so I will probably not use this design in the coat.

Nonetheless, it’s very pretty, and I’m going to file it away for future reference.  Someday I’ll weave it, or a variant of it, up.  (I am still not 100% satisfied with this draft, it seems a little busy to me.)

Filed Under: All blog posts, weaving Tagged With: cashmere coat, weaving drafts

December 22, 2008 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Some more potential drafts

Behold the result of five hours on a plane yesterday:

24-shaft weaving draft with 4-strand braid
24-shaft weaving draft with 4-strand braid

flower-plainweave

24-shaft flower weaving draft with twill background
24-shaft flower weaving draft with twill background

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: cashmere coat, weaving drafts

December 19, 2008 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

One possible pattern

I was playing around with patterns this morning, and thinking through what I want.

Parameters:

  • 24-thread repeat in the threading, straight draw for maximum flexibility.
  • 4-5 threads of every repeat must be in warp yarn #2 (to stretch my small supply of warp yarn #1).
  • Vertical stripes every inch or half-inch, to make me look taller/thinner
  • Floats of no more than 4 warp threads (because this is being used as outerwear).

After some fiddling, I came up with this:

A circle and diamond striped weaving draft/pattern for my handwoven cashmere coat
A circle and diamond striped weaving draft/pattern for my handwoven cashmere coat

Explaining my reasoning behind this pattern a bit more:

  • Using a warp-dominant twill in the stripes of lighter color pops out the red stripes from a black background
  • Using a weft-dominant twill in the background provides a black background.  I want black to dominate in the fabric, toning down the red and keeping the coat from looking garish.  I also think it is easier to make out colored patterns against a black background than to make out black patterns against a colored background.  The eye is drawn to color, so naturally looks at the red first.
    It also results in fewer shafts being lifted, which is easier to weave.
    Using a twill background also ensures that the floats will be short.
  • I wanted to try motifs that were symmetrical and equal in height and width.  I felt just using diamonds didn’t provide enough visual interest, so I added a more circular pattern alternating with the diamonds.  Then I felt the shapes clashed, so I altered the circles to be more diamond-shaped.
  • I made the twill lines reversing because I like the look of herringbone weaves, and I think they will also make me look taller.
  • I put red in the warp and black in the weft because silk is shiny and cashmere is matte: shiny red silk will practically glow against a matte black cashmere background.

This pattern pleases me, but I want to try more!  Still on the slate to try are:

  • simple geometric shapes in 1/3 against 3/1 twill
  • Organic lines/patterns a la network drafting
  • anything else I can think up

The advantage to threading up straight draw on 24 shafts, with a 24-thread repeat, is that I can control each warp thread in the repeat separately and can therefore weave just about anything, provided it repeats every 24 threads.

I would be happy sampling just with these colors/pattern, but will probably work up a lot more drafts before settling on something.  This is because I’m leaving on an 11-day trip to visit relatives (mine and B.’s) on Sunday and won’t have access to the loom or my yarns, so playing on the computer is all I can do (well, besides catching up on John Varley novels, and knitting socks).

Speaking of which, this blog will go on semi-hiatus starting Sunday, as I’m not sure when I’ll have Internet access.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: cashmere coat, weaving drafts

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