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April 6, 2010 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Prepping for CNCH

I’ve been working hard at getting the dress forms ready for CNCH.  This involves quite a bit of tedious grunge work.  First you have to have someone wrap you in plaster bandage to create the mold.  Then you have to remove the mold, let it dry, and then sew it back together and seal it.  Then you put in mold release compound so the plaster doesn’t stick as much, and pour the foam.  (Which is kind of magical, by the way: you mix up this cream-colored liquid, pour what looks like a tiny bit into the mold, and a few moments later, the foam magically rises to 10x (or more!) the original volume.  It’s like watching a stop-action film of bread rising!)

After you pour the foam, you have to remove the plaster mold.  This is more complicated than it looks, since some of the plaster will stick to the form.  Removing this involves a chisel, a rasp, and lots of patience.  (Lots of patience.)  Once the mold is removed, you have to cut a wooden base for it, mount the base, and make the stand.  After mounting the form to a stand, you then have to rasp/sand it down until it reaches the correct dimensions.  (Because you breathe during the making of the mold, it’s going to be slightly bigger than it should be.)  Finally, you have to sew the cover.

All in all, a highly time-consuming process, but the dress deserves nothing less.

Currently I am about 2/3 of the way through the process for the 2nd form.  The stand is complete, most of the plaster is removed (I’ve got about another hour’s work to go, best guess), and most of what remains is rasping it down until the coat hangs on it properly.  That could easily be another several hours of  “fitting”.  Alas, I can’t work on it until the sun comes up, so until then, I’m hanging out and blogging.  🙂

A few other interesting notes:

  • First, I have confirmation from someone who is willing to wind skeins of silk for dye samples for me.  This is tremendously exciting, as I’ve said before, and I’m starting to look through various manufacturers’ dye colors to see which new primaries I want to try.
  • I took the dress in for appraisal on Sunday, and should get the results back today.  The appraiser (former textiles curator for the DeYoung Museum) said the workmanship was excellent, and the ensemble was exquisite (!).  Now I just need to get the final number so I can get insurance.  I’m expecting it to come in around $30K, but the real value (of course) is “priceless”.
  • I’m probably going to donate both dress and coat to a museum sometime after the wedding and all the weaving exhibits are over.  (I’m not planning on having kids and I refuse to let it go to a garage sale when I die!)  Melissa (the appraiser) suggested either the San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles or the Oakland Museum, and I’ll contact them in a couple of months, after all the weaving and fiber exhibits are done.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles Tagged With: dress form, wedding dress

April 2, 2010 by Tien Chiu 4 Comments

Finis

Both coat and dress are done now.  Woven, cut, sewn, hemmed, lined – DONE, DONE, DONE!!!  Sharon and I broke out a bottle of champagne to celebrate last night, and then (for the last time) I took the garments home.  They are carefully folded, stowed safely in garment bags, awaiting their appraisal this weekend and their Big Moment in June.

Some words  of thanks seem in order:

  • First, to Sharon.  Her help has been invaluable, both in fitting and in  sewing the dress.  The perfect fit, the flow, and more complicated sewing are her work, and she provided the guidance to me as I did the bulk of the work.  Without it, I could never have completed either coat or dress a tenth as well.
  • Second, to the handweaving community for helping me through many technical issues as I sampled, studied, and eventually learned how to weave the fabric for the dress.  Without you, the fabric would have been much poorer, and the path at least twice as difficult.
  • Third, to my mother, for teaching me fiber arts as a child.  If not for you, I might never have gotten into fiber arts, and none of this would have been possible.
  • And, finally, to YOU, my blog readers, for cheering me on through the difficult parts, and celebrating my successes with me.  Your support meant a lot to me, especially in the days when I wondered whether I’d EVER finish this thing, or if it would be a tenth as beautiful as the dress of my dreams.  It is, and I’m grateful for your support along the way.

I realized today that you’d never seen Sharon, despite all her invaluable work, and so I leave you with a photo of my co-conspirator and sewing mentor, and the two finished garments:

Sharon with the finished coat and dress
Sharon with the finished coat and dress

Now, on to the next adventure!

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles, weaving Tagged With: wedding dress

March 31, 2010 by Tien Chiu 6 Comments

That magical moment

champagne time - the dress is finished!

Yes!!!  The dress is finished.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles Tagged With: wedding dress

March 30, 2010 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Just a few hours left…

…maybe another 3 hours work of work on the dress, and it will be DONE!!!

Sharon didn’t quite finish the dress over the weekend, so I took it home to complete it while she worked on the coat.  I’m actually somewhat relieved; I’ve put so much into the dress that I wanted the pleasure of putting in the last few stitches myself!

But we pinned up the lining hem while I was there.  Yesterday and this morning I finished hemming the lining, and now I’m applying the lace to the bottom of the lining:

lace for the lining of a handwoven wedding dress

Once the lace is all done, I need to fix one small section of lace on the front (it’s coming loose), sew on the ribbons for hanging the dress, and sew in the label.  And that, my friends, is IT!!  Maybe another two or three hours of work.  The culmination of nearly a year’s labor.

Hmm, perhaps I had better go buy a small bottle of champagne…!

Sharon is working on the coat right now, trying to either finish it or get it to the point where I can finish it.  However, as I have both labels, I get to do the ceremonial sewing-in of the label myself.  (More champagne!)

I forgot to mention earlier, but on Sunday the dress goes to Melissa Leventon, former curator of textiles for the DeYoung Museum and the California Academy of Sciences, for appraisal.  It will be very interesting to find out the actual value…! and a relief to get it insured.  (It is of course priceless…but if (heaven forbid) something happens to it while it’s being exhibited, at least I’ll get something…!)

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles Tagged With: wedding dress

March 21, 2010 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Favors

Having (gasp!) nothing left to do on the dress until I visit Sharon this afternoon, I thought I’d start putting together my samples for the Complex Weavers’ garment and fine threads study group.  Then I realized that, before cutting up samples for Complex Weavers, I’d better make sure I have enough fabric for that and my wedding favors.  (Which, as you may recall, were going to be bookmarks, made from the dress and coat fabrics.)

So I did a little cutting and sewing and came up with this:

Bookmarks made of handwoven wedding dress fabric
Wedding-dress bookmarks

The one on the right has both ends zigzagged, cut off, and treated with Seams Great.  The one on the left has the top end stitched and turned inside out, and the bottom end zigzagged, cut off, and treated with Seams Great.  I think I actually prefer the version with both ends zigzagged and cut off; the look is more consistent, and the version with one end stitched and inverted has a tendency to curl.

You can’t see it in the photo, but the one on the left is backed  with the charmeuse lining fabric, and the one on the right is backed with the dress fabric.  While I like the idea of having a double-sided bookmark with dress  on one side and coat on the other, the charmeuse-backed bookmark is considerably thinner and drapier, which makes it a better bookmark, I think.  But the other one is acceptable as well, so I’ll have to take it off and think about it.

I am not 100% happy with the workmanship on the bookmarks, but I expect I can do better given a few “practice” ones.  With about 85 to make (75 guests plus some extras, just in case), I’ll have plenty of opportunity to practice!

Yesterday I spent nearly all day working on my dress form.  I apparently didn’t put enough mold release on it, so a large fraction of the plaster bandages bonded tightly to the form and had to be coaxed, scraped, and finally chiseled off (very gently so as not to destroy the foam underneath).  But it’s just about ready to be mounted and covered – probably another day or two will finish the job.  Then, of course, I have to make a second one.  I hope the folks at CNCH appreciate all the trouble I’m going to for the display!

Pix of the dress form later, of course, once I get it mounted and covered  in fabric.

Filed Under: All blog posts, sewing, textiles, weaving Tagged With: wedding dress

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