Tien Chiu

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August 2, 2026 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Capstone

I’m on the plane home to San Jose after visiting my wedding dress in the Fabric of America exhibit at The Henry Ford. It was an amazing experience. I’m still processing it.

Part of it was seeing my dress mounted as part of a featured exhibit at a major museum. I spent a good chunk of time just standing in the exhibit, staring at my dress surrounded by other amazing works, not believing that it had been chosen for the exhibit. (Pinch me!) But I had to admit to myself that it held its own, even in such illustrious company. People were stopping to look at it and gasping, “It’s so beautiful!”

But a lot of it was just the trip down memory lane. So many memories! Not just the making of the dress, or the wedding, but also of nearly 20 years spent with A, and how we both evolved over the course of our two decades together.

Our first date, in 2006, at Coupa Cafe, Palo Alto. Somehow, the topic of food came up, and I mentioned a Miss Manners quote that I loved: “Food is so important to American romance that if there’s no food, it isn’t a date.”

We talked for hours, and eventually I suggested that we go across the street to Nola’s for dinner. A. looked at me and said, “Does this mean this is now a date?” I laughed and said yes.

Four years later. We were settling in comfortably together. Weaving was my latest hobby – I’d taken it up shortly after A. and I got together, and I loved it.

I’d signed up for a workshop with legendary weaving teacher Sharon Alderman about designing fabric for a specific purpose. I was racking my brains trying to think of something so complicated and difficult that I’d need Sharon Alderman’s advice for it. Eventually I decided on the most challenging thing I could think of: a handwoven wedding dress. I figured “I’m only 40-ish. I’ll probably get married at SOME point – if not to A, then to someone else, eventually. And I love the idea of making my own wedding dress from fabric I wove myself.”

I designed a set of samples that I thought would be appropriate. I wanted to incorporate symbolism into the fabric (which would also make it more interesting to weave!), so I spent an inordinate amount of time figuring out how to render the double-happiness Chinese character in a 24-shaft draft. (I’d only just started designing my own drafts, so this was quite a stretch.)

Here’s the draft:

(The “double happiness” character symbolizes a happy marriage. It’s the character for “happiness” written twice, then merged into a single character. I can’t imagine a better way to express “happy relationship” than that.)

I also became fascinated by the eternity knot, also called the Buddha’s knot.

So I designed an eternity-knot draft, too.

I went to the workshop and Sharon helped me create my samples:

I returned home and blogged about my samples, being careful to say, “A and I are not engaged – this is a strictly theoretical wedding dress!”

Well. A. read my blog, came by my craft room, and said, “You know, I really wouldn’t mind being married to you….”

Not the most romantic proposal, but the wedding was on!

It took me an entire year to make the dress. I wasn’t a very experienced weaver, so I made a ton of mistakes, including one egregious one that forced me to re-weave ten full yards of fine silk fabric. (I still describe the dress as “the triumph of obstinacy over ignorance”. Setback after setback, but I. Would. Not. Quit.)

I eventually wove a total of 32 yards of fabric – 16 for the coat, and 16 for the dress. (Plus the ten yards that I had to discard!)

I also wanted to use couture sewing techniques, about which I knew absolutely nothing. After a long search, I found Sharon Bell, an experienced couture seamstress and former dean of a fashion school. At each stage, she showed me what to do, and I did it. She was the brains behind the wedding dress! We became fast friends in the process. I still miss her.

Sharon with the finished dress

So much else went into the dress. My mother-in-law bought me two yards of imported Alencon lace at Britex Fabrics after she saw me looking longingly at it but frowning at the price tag. I cut the lace into individual motifs and appliqued each motif separately to the bodice of the dress to get the design I wanted.

Tiny, almost invisible stitches, a lot of them. Five rows of stitching, four done by hand, in the hem of the dress. Sharon laughing at me when I fretted over a small piece of fabric that I had to add near the bottom of the dress because the fabric was too narrow for one panel. “Don’t worry – the guy on the floor looking at your hem is going to be too drunk to care!”

The dress took an entire year, working in every spare moment, to complete. I estimated over 1,000 hours spent working on the dress and coat, start to finish.

When I put the last stitch in, I set it down on the table, looked at it, and realized: this is a masterpiece.

I had done interesting work, even beautiful work, before, but nothing with this scope, ambition, or perfection. It was (and still is) closer to perfection than anything else I’ve ever made. It was a tribute to my two loves, craft and A.

The wedding went beautifully, except that my mother, who had flown out for the event, was briefly hospitalized and couldn’t attend. So we left the reception early and flew through the hospital in full wedding regalia to visit her in the hospital. We got quite a few odd looks in the hallway!

Fast forward a few more years. The curator at the American Textile History Museum reached out to me – she was looking for wedding dresses with interesting stories for an exhibit she was putting together, and someone had told her about my dress and its saga. I was delighted to see it in their exhibit Behind the Veil: Brides and their Stories.

I was even more delighted a little while later, when the ATHM acquired it for their collection. I had worried what would happen to the dress when I passed – I have no children, and the idea of it going to an estate sale was heartbroken. I was excited to know that it would have a permanent home.

Alas, the American Textile History Museum closed a few years later. That precipitated a nail-biting year as they worked on transferring their collection to other institutions. I had no idea what was going to happen to my dress – whether it would go to another museum, be sold, or (heaven forbid) discarded. Nobody could (or would?) tell me anything. I tried to be patient and philosophical, without much success.

I was delighted to hear, a year later, that most of the costume collection (including my dress) had gone to The Henry Ford Museum. The Henry Ford is a major and well-funded institution, so it would be safe there.

I didn’t think much about the dress for the next ten years. Life went on, with twists and turns. My marriage took a sharp turn around 2020, when A. came out as transgender. Instead of a husband, I suddenly had a wife.

We stayed together for another five years. I helped her through her early years of transition. Some of it was fun – I got to show her how to put on pantyhose, and helped her pick out colors for her new clothes. Some of it was much harder, like helping her navigate the change from cis man to trans woman. Suddenly she went from the top of the social pecking order to near the bottom. When we were out and about, I often accompanied her to bathrooms because she was terrified of being attacked by anti-trans bigots for the “crime” of using the ladies’ room.

There were other transformations that had to be made, like reshaping her self-identity. To give you some idea of the magnitude of this, think back to all the experimentation that probably happened in your teen years. What did you wear and what did it say about you? Who did you hang out with, who was your tribe? How did you relate to other people?

So much of society is hard-coded around “what men do” and “what women do”. We cis people spend the first seventeen or eighteen years of our lives learning what it means to be a man or a woman in our society, both externally and internally. For someone who transitions in midlife, all that learning and identity shift has to be concentrated into a few short years. That would be incredibly difficult even if trans people weren’t the target of so much hatred.

So it was difficult for A. It was tough for me too, because waking up one morning and discovering that your husband is actually your wife is a bit of a shock.

We navigated that transition with considerably more grace than anyone (including us) could have expected, but after five or six years it became clear that we really were headed in different directions. For us to continue growing, we needed to live separate lives.

So we spent last year working out the divorce, home sale, move. She went to Seattle; I spent three months in Mexico before returning to San Jose. We’re still friends, and text each other daily, but we’re no longer partners.

Then the San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles decided they’d like to exhibit my wedding dress in their show Soft Sculptures at the end of 2026. So I wrote to The Henry Ford to ask if they would consider loaning my dress to SJMQT. They replied to say “Yes, but we’re actually exhibiting it this summer, so they might have to wait until the exhibit closes in the fall.”

WHAT???? I had had absolutely no inkling that it was to be in the exhibit. I was delighted – I had honestly never expected to see it again. The Henry Ford has over a million items in their collection, far more than can ever be exhibited. For them to pick out my dress from that enormous collection seemed unimaginable. I was happy just knowing that it was safe in a collection.

So I wangled an invitation to the exhibit reception, and bought plane tickets.

And there I was, looking at my dress. 15 years since I made it. So many changes, so many twists and turns. And in some way immortal now, safe in a museum collection.

I don’t expect I’ll ever see the dress again, except maybe briefly at the San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles exhibit. Museums generally don’t show the same item over and over, so I expect that by the next time it’s exhibited I’ll have long passed. So this trip was really a capstone to the entire wedding era.

So much time…so many memories.

Filed Under: All blog posts, musings, textiles, weaving Tagged With: wedding dress

April 18, 2026 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Transformative exhibits

I’m pleased to announce three shows that feature my work:

Bipolar Prison is currently on display at the San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles as part of their exhibition The Woven Pixel. That exhibit is up until May 10, 2026.

Bipolar Prison
Bipolar Prison

Renewal will be in the show Text Machines: Scarlet Thread of the Digital Order (1883-2025) at Stanford Libraries (Green Library), which will run from late May through the end of the year.

Phoenix scarf
Renewal (front)
Renewal
Renewal (reverse)

And Eternal Love (aka my wedding dress) will be exhibited at The Henry Ford June 7 through September 13 in Fabric of America | Our Fashions, Textiles, and Technologies. (It might also be coming to the San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles in late fall – stay tuned!)

Handwoven wedding dress, coat portion - "Eternal Love"
Eternal Love wedding-coat
Handwoven wedding dress, handwoven double happiness character
wedding coat detail
handwoven wedding dress, close-up view
Eternal Love wedding dress
Wedding day photo
Wedding day photo

I’m delighted to have so many exhibits – and especially excited to have my wedding dress on display at The Henry Ford. The Henry Ford is a major museum – they get over 1.5 million visitors a year. And to have my work selected out of the 1,000,000+ items they have in their collection is a huge honor.

Beyond that, it’s also an opportunity for me to see and reflect on a piece that has deep meaning for me. As my wedding dress, of course, it would have meaning anyway. But it was also my turning-point as a maker. I spent over 1,000 hours creating the dress, over the course of a year, and it is as near perfection as I have ever gotten. Up until then I had seen myself as a dabbler in this and that, but when I saw the completed dress, I thought, “This is a masterpiece. I can do more.”

And that, in turn, spawned a whole series of more ambitious work – Bipolar Prison, for example – and a lot of research into various things artistic. And, finally, led to my changing careers to teach visual design and color in weaving.

Despite all that, though, I still didn’t think of myself as an artist. A researcher and teacher, but not an artist. The researcher runs deep in my blood – both my parents were scientists, and I went to Caltech. And while I had an exhibit here and there – including one or two museum exhibits – I thought of them more or less as flukes.

But with three works on exhibit this year, it’s getting progressively harder to dismiss them all as happy accidents.

After looking back on the things I’ve made recently, my work isn’t just about creating technical perfection. It’s about saying something – which, to me, is the differentiation between art and craft.

I felt that my work was scattered, though, without a uniting theme (which is what I would expect from a working artist).

After much thought, though, I’ve realized that it actually does have a uniting theme: transformation. Bipolar Prison is about the rapid changes from depression and mania; Eternal Love, of course, is about stepping across the threshold to marriage, making a lifetime commitment. Renewal is about rebirth, both on a personal level and as a universal theme. Unraveling is about the conscious decision to transform oneself.

So that, artistically speaking, is a theme on which I can build a body of work.

As an artist, I’d naturally like to do more exhibits – so I am thinking about how best to accomplish that. Still noodling and researching, but I feel like I’ve crossed the threshold. Given my theme of transformation, perhaps that’s another work, waiting in the wings!

On a much more mundane (but very pretty!) level, I’ve finished dyeing my second set of sheets. You may recall the Fire & Water blanket that I dyed in my last post:

(Hi, Pepper! She is an inveterate photobomber, but a delightful one.)

I had planned to do two sets of sheets, one in fire colors and one in water colors, to go with the two halves of the blanket. In my previous blog post, I’d finished the Fire sheets:

Sheets that look like fire

I LOVE them.

But, of course, the set wouldn’t be complete without Water, so I dyed a second set in blues and greens:

Water-themed sheets

And here’s what it looks like with the bed made up (astonishingly, without any photobombing cats!):

I LOVE these. So much more fun than plain old white sheets.

And, since no blog post would be complete without a cat or two, here is Nutmeg, hanging out in her kitty hammock. She’s grown up into a beautiful cat!

That’s all for today – stay tuned! I hope to be posting a bit more frequently.

Filed Under: All blog posts

April 5, 2026 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Back at (creative) work

I finished my hand-dyed bed linens, and they are fantastic! Here are the sheets:

And here is the blanket (plus Pepper the Professional Photobomber!):

Here’s what it looks like with the sheets turned properly down:

I LOVE it!

I’m planning on doing a second set of sheets, this one in blues and greens to match the blanket. More pictures once those are done! I may wind up mixing the sheet sets to have one blue sheet and one orange sheet in each set. Or maybe not. Stay tuned!

I’ve also gotten started on weaving stuff. (FINALLY!) You may or may not recall the series I’m working on, Unraveling. It’s a series of five images that starts with a woman screaming, woven in black and white, with the fabric slashed and frayed to reveal a layer of magenta cloth beneath the surface. Here’s the image I’m planning to weave – obviously it doesn’t have the double weave bottom layer or the slashes in it yet, but those are coming!

In the next frame, she reaches up a hand to her face and begins unraveling the frayed cloth, revealing a magenta mass of threads underneath. Here’s an “artist’s concept” (as they say) of what that might look like.

The next frame shows her as an unraveled mess of magenta thread, very loosely arranged in the shape of a face:

In the next frame, she is starting to put herself back together: a cocoon with a serene face

And, finally, the last frame shows her serene, with the magenta integrated, a single layer of cloth.

I handspun 1800 yards of superfine (the size of sewing thread) thread on a drop spindle while I was in Mexico, and will be using it in the magenta layer. It’s the “through line,” literally the thread that runs through the entire piece. It’s magenta because, on our last day in the old house, I arrived just before dawn to find a beautiful magenta glow in the sky over the home we were leaving behind:

After discussing the matter with Claude and doing some Googling for myself, I think those must have been the Northern Lights – the color is right and I can’t think of any other explanation. But it is practically unheard of to see the Northern Lights in the Bay Area, and to have that light up the sky on the last day in our old home? I took it as an omen, and I carried it with me all through my travels to Mexico. I literally spun it into a thread of continuity and contemplation:

I haven’t been able to work on the fabric design because I’ve had equipment issues (my pen display broke), but I should be able to start by the end of the week.

That may be getting ahead of myself, though. I need to set up the jacquard loom before I start weaving, and that’s gonna take a while. I have 1,320 heddles to thread, then debug (finding and fixing all the mistakes), before I can weave. I also want to replace 1,100 heddles with more durable ones. Finally, I need to wind and beam the warp for the project before I start threading. That’s a lot of infrastructure work, but it needs doing. And if you have to do something long and tedious, best to start right away. So I began winding the warp this afternoon. Forward ho!

The Megado? I have a project in mind for her, but I can’t finish designing it until I get that pen display. Soon, I hope!

By the way, I have decided to christen the Megado “Lady Lovelace” (after Ada Lovelace, of course). My jacquard loom is “Amazing Grace” (after pioneering software legend Grace Hopper). So now I have Lady Lovelace and Amazing Grace – which really ought to be the name of a rock duo. (Think I can get the Indigo Girls to change their name? 😉 )

And, of course, because no blog post would be complete without kittens, here are Nutmeg and Pepper, training for the North American Mixed Martial Arts championships! (All in fun – they chase each other all over the house almost every day, and there’s never any hissing. And all that kitten energy! They’re so much fun to watch.)

And all snuggled up afterwards.

They’re just over nine months now, and weigh as much as adult cats, so perhaps I should stop calling them kittens. But honestly? They’ll always be kittens to me.

Filed Under: All blog posts, dyeing, surface design, textiles, weaving Tagged With: jacquard, unraveling

March 26, 2026 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Tiger tattoo

I’m back from Australia! and the tattoo has healed up nicely. Forest did a FANTASTIC job!

Here are some pictures of the tattoo in progress (it was fun to watch it grow!):

And here it is fully healed:

TOTALLY worth a trip to Australia.

My friend Lieven took these beautiful portraits of me, featuring both tattoos:

I LOVE them – the pictures AND the tattoos!

What have I been up to since I got back? A lot more unpacking and organization. (If I had a dime for every time I’ve said “I think I’m almost unpacked!” I’d be retired and water skiing in the Caribbean right now.)

But also some fun stuff. I tie-dyed a queen-sized blanket for my bed earlier this week, plus two throws for my ex-wife. They are midway through the rinse process, but I’ll post pix once they’re out.

And of course there are KITTENS!! Here they are with their latest toy: a puzzle feeder.

Actually they have FOUR puzzle feeders, because they enjoy them so much. It’s a pleasure to see how excited they get when I fill them with kibble and cat treats – and it gives them something to play with during the day. I have a few more puzzle feeders up my sleeve for when they get bored with these.

Because my place is small, and I want to give them the maximum amount of space, I’ve installed cat wall furniture wherever possible. I also turned the back hallway into a kitten playground:

They LOVE crumpled-up packing paper. So, I’m actually stocking the stuff so that when a batch of packing-paper wears out, I can replace it with nice, fresh packing paper. There is a lot of CRASH! CRASH! PA-THUD! going on these days as they romp around in it. And lots of cat toys, of course.

They may not be the most spoiled cats ever, but not for lack of human effort. 🙂

Here’s a pic of Nutmeg (nee Macie) curled up in her favorite basket:

And Pepper, perched on her human:

They’re now about 10 months old, and pretty close to full-grown cats. They’ll grow maybe another 10% from here and then settle into their adult weights.

I am, obviously, completely gaga over them and doing my best to keep them happy, engaged, and entertained. They get a play session every morning, and if they manage to grab the toy any time during the rest of the day, they get another play session right then.

Which leads to shenanigans whenever I sit down to eat:

(Caption: When She Thinks Mom Isn’t Looking)

We both like the game, though. As typical with most cat-human interactions, the cat wins most of the time, so we both get to have fun!

That’s it for today! More once I get those tie-dyes rinsed out and (finally!) get started on weaving.

Filed Under: All blog posts, musings Tagged With: cats

February 26, 2026 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Capstone

Good heavens. Has it really been six weeks? That is approximately 36.3 years in Tien-time. So let’s catch you up quickly:

Looms: Unpacked, moved, and reassembled. Amazing Grace (my TC-2 loom), being the queen of the household, has the bedroom to herself; Lady Lovelace (my brand-new Megado) and I are shacking it up in the living room. I haven’t had time to do anything with either loom – most of the past six weeks has been spent unpacking and assembling looms.

But not all. Other interesting things are happening as well, most notably that I’m currently in a plane above the South Pacific, heading to Australia to get a tattoo.

Well, yes, I suppose that is just about what you’d expect from me.

To explain a little more:

Ever since I got a phoenix tattoo on my right arm (after my mother passed away, I left high-tech to teach weaving, and my then-husband came out as transgender), I’ve wanted a tiger on the left arm. I’ve had an affinity for tigers for quite some time – my original website, started in 2003, was at travelingtiger.com – but I didn’t feel the idea had quite gelled enough to manifest yet. I also didn’t feel that I had “earned it” yet – a tattoo of that significance should be a celebration, a capstone to some achievement or significant event, rather than something to just go out and get one day after dinner.

Well. After the past year of upheaval – the end of a 20-year relationship/15-year marriage, selling the house we’d lived in for over a decade, cocooning in Mexico for three months, and finally deciding to move back to San Jose to start over – I think I’ve earned another tattoo.

I didn’t want just a plain tiger, though. There are lots of “regular” tiger tattoos in the world, and I wanted something special – something unique and with deep personal significance.

So I had a long conversation with ChatGPT about what this tattoo might look like, and we came up with this (two slightly different ideas of the same concept)

Tiger tattoo, AI-generated

The tiger is walking from the spirit world into our world, and represents strength, confidence, and self-control – powerful but not aggressive. The panther is the tiger’s Jungian shadow-self, following a few steps behind (as the shadow-self always does). As the tiger walks through the spirit veil, the panther is just visible, beginning to manifest, behind.

Together, they are about finding and manifesting your power, and integrating your shadow-side into your self, so you can move together as a whole and much more powerful person.

I REALLY liked this tattoo idea.

But finding a tattoo artist turned out to be incredibly difficult. The better tattoo artists, like all artists, prefer to create their own work to tattoo, rather than tattoo artwork created by others – in fact it’s generally an incredible faux pas to ask a tattoo artist to tattoo someone else’s design or to ask them to design for someone else to tattoo. This is exactly as it ought to be, but it does mean that your tattoo artist needs to be able to draw whatever design you’re contemplating.

Also, tattoo artists, like artists generally, usually specialize in a particular visual style – greyscale realism (realistic tattoos made with only black/gray ink, no color), watercolor (bold use of color, more flowing style), blackwork (bold black lines, like my phoenix), fine-line (single needle), among about 40,000 others.

Within a style, most artists also specialize in a particular subject, e.g. detailed botanical studies, owls, legendary animals, Chinese watercolor landscapes, manga and anime characters – the list is pretty much endless.

The challenge with this tattoo is that it crosses several different genres. The incredibly detailed tiger called for grayscale realism combined with color. The mist required skill with flowing color, with a Chinese landscape painting sensibility. The two put together required an artist who could do not just a single subject (such as the tiger) but an entire composition.

On top of that, tigers in action are pretty complicated to draw. Not stationary tigers – the world is paved in tattoos of tiger heads, and there are lots of photos to use as references. But to draw a tiger walking naturally, you have to understand more about feline anatomy and movement, and there are really very few tattoo artists who have enough experience to draw a truly beautiful and realistic walking tiger.

After coming up with the concept sketch, I spent about two months trawling Instagram (where pretty much all tattoo artists put up their portfolios) searching for the right artist. I was delighted when I found an artist who I thought could do the work – and she was in Berkeley! I sent her my design, turned up for a consultation, and scheduled an appointment.

But.

With tattoos, you typically get the design a few days before the session, even if you made the appointment months in advance. Nobody’s explicitly said why, but I suspect it’s to discourage clients from making four thousand revision requests before the day. Which is reasonable but makes for a rather suspenseful time for the client – you don’t know if you’re going to like it until a few days before the appointment.

And, as it turned out, I didn’t. What I got appeared to have been poorly drawn by AI – a tiger with dog-like paws, spots rather than stripes on the back, and a weirdly misshapen spine. I sighed and emailed the artist to cancel the appointment.

At that point I was down to two artists, both based out of Seoul. (A lot of the best tattoo artists, particularly in blackwork – my favorite style – come from South Korea, which is ironic because tattooing is actually illegal there.) Both specialized in tigers, but Forest got the nod because she did more complex compositions – you can see them on her Instagram feed. When I found out she was doing a guest artist residency in Melbourne, Australia right now, my decision was made. I emailed her and bought tickets two days later.

My flight is about to land in Australia. I’m giving myself two days to rest up before the tattoo; I didn’t want to go into it jet-lagged and exhausted. So while I arrive late Friday night (Australia time), tattooing doesn’t start until Monday. I don’t have any particular tourist plans; this trip is a pilgrimage, or perhaps more accurately a capstone to twenty years of my last era, and a bold step into my new phase.

Here’s my final tattoo art, and a mockup of how it’s likely to look on my left arm. I hope you love it as much as I do.

Tattoo art by Forest https://www.instagram.com/forest__tt
mockup of tiger tattoo, by Forest: https://www.instagram.com/forest__tt

Filed Under: All blog posts, musings Tagged With: tattoo, tiger tattoo

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