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You are here: Home / Archives for devore

April 25, 2011 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Proof of concept

Got home, thoroughly exhausted, and fell over almost immediately.  But not before doing this:

1st devore experiment on tencel warp
1st devore experiment on tencel warp

The tencel burns away beautifully, leaving a very fine mesh of metallic gold embroidery thread plus the synthetic component of the warp (in this case, a fine polyester yarn).  It’s lovely.

Next on the agenda is to design and weave samples for the Fine Threads Study Group, as the deadline for that exchange is coming up way too fast.  I’ll most likely do it on this warp, but with a slightly different liftplan.  With forty-three samples due, I’ll need to weave it up fairly quickly and then dedicate an afternoon to devore.  It takes about five minutes to burn out a sample, so that’s about four hours, just to do the devore!  But I think it will produce a more interesting exchange than the cross-dyed samples.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor, devore

April 12, 2011 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Cutting my losses

Well, I got the cotton-wrapped polyester warp on and started weaving.  After debugging the warp (fixing a few crossed threads, loose threads, etc.), I started weaving with the ecru/taupe weft, with dismal results: barely visible pattern and a dingy, dirty-looking fabric.  So I switched to white weft, resulting in a cleaner-looking fabric, but with not much more pattern:

 

samples, white and ecru wefts
samples, white and ecru wefts

 

Since low contrast was not working, I decided to switch to high contrast.  I didn’t have any black thread on hand, so I grabbed some 60/2 silk just to see how the color would work out:

 

woven sample, black silk weft
woven sample, black silk weft

 

I liked this better, so I decided to try dyeing the cotton-wrapped polyester thread a dark brown using fiber-reactive dyes.  Because of the polyester content, though, I only got a medium reddish-brown, which produced this:

 

woven sample, reddish brown weft
woven sample, reddish brown weft

 

This reminds me of wood grain, or maybe streaked sandstone?

Anyway, the warp was not weaving up gracefully.  Because of the long repeats in the threading, the threads from the back shafts tended to bunch up while weaving, resulting in a poor shed.  And random threads throughout the warp would seem to loosen and start floating on their own.  I guess that’s what happens when you weave with a totally inelastic and somewhat slippery thread!

By the time I wove up the brown sample, my temper was starting to reach meltdown levels.  Then I happened to touch the fabric, and realized that the “hand” of the fabric was terrible.  In retrospect, this should have been obvious: if you take a tightly-twisted, waxed and glazed, mostly-synthetic sewing thread, and weave it into a fabric, you’re going to get something that feels tight, hard, and synthetic.  So I cut the first yard or so of fabric off the loom and wet-finished it.  The resulting fabric combines the charming drape of screen-door screening with the marvelous texture of 1970’s polyester double-knits.  (My mom made me wear those as a kid and I HATED them!)  There’s just no getting around it: this is nasty fabric.

So I’m going to do a few devore experiments with it today, but unless those go a lot better than I expect, I’m going to cut the remaining 14+ yards of warp off the loom.  As frustrating as it is to toss out that much yarn, it’s much better than the alternative, which is spending the next two weeks struggling to weave off a fabric I can’t stand.

Next on the loom will be a warp for my first article for Handwoven, to be published in the Blocks issue.  The profile draft is the one they’ve published in their Weave-Along on Weaving Today.  It should go on and off the loom fairly quickly – I’m thinking a 9″ wide scarf in 30/2 silk, black and white, would be just perfect, and I can weave a couple of scarves in different weave structures on the same warp if I design the drafts right.  I don’t expect that will take me more than a day or two – it’s a narrow warp, simple threading, and pretty familiar ground.

After that, I’ll put on the really interesting warp, a devore sampler.  I am going to try out four combinations:

  1. 20/2 tencel + transparent nylon metallic yarn
  2. Tencel + polyester-core metallic embroidery thread
  3. Tencel + Riciclo, a cotton/polyester thread from Giovanna Imperia
  4. Tencel + 1/69 transparent lurex yarn with nylon support

I will probably make each section 5″ wide (total warp width 20″).  In each section I will “carry” a strand of the non-burning thread with every 8th thread of tencel, for a total sett of 5 epi of the nonburning thread.  When I weave it, I will also add a non-burning thread every 8 picks.

After the thread is woven, I will satin-stitch around the cutout areas with polyester thread before burnout, to provide a neater edge and to support the burned-out edges.  Once the tencel burns away, the result should be just a hint of glitter over the underneath layer of fabric – exactly what I want.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: devore

April 3, 2011 by Tien Chiu 2 Comments

Hard decisions

Well, I finally did what I should have done at the very beginning, and did a burnout test on the thread.  Here is the result:

burnout test - devore on cotton wrapped polyester yarn
burnout test - devore on cotton wrapped polyester yarn

The burnout section is visible as a line down the center; the right side has been burned out, the left side has not.

This is pretty neat, but it also shows clearly that the polyester will be somewhat translucent, but definitely not transparent, once it is burned out.  This means it won’t work as intended for this piece.

So: what now?  Do I go ahead and thread all 1440 threads, then weave off something that won’t work for what I had in mind?  Or do I cut my losses and take the warp off the loom so I can design something that will work?

Well, actually not that hard a decision.  I don’t have any better alternatives to put on the loom, so I’m going to go with this warp, using it as a sample warp to experiment and learn whatever I can.  And there is plenty to learn!  Like how to use devore paste to burn out an image; how to do transfer printing polyester with disperse dyes; how to create and use silk screens to apply devore paste to fabric and disperse dyes to paper.  And, um, stuff.  Lots of stuff.

The last thing I’m working on this weekend is a proposal for a series of articles for Handwoven.  I opened my big mouth at exactly the right (or wrong?) time, and it’s looking like I might have an opportunity to write some articles on fabric design!  That would be really exciting.  So I am cobbling together a more concrete proposal, basically a list of article topics and outlines, to send to Madelyn.  If there’s a subject in fabric design that you’d want covered, leave me a comment; I’d like to know what interests people, and where I should start.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: autumn splendor, devore

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