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December 19, 2008 by Tien Chiu

One possible pattern

I was playing around with patterns this morning, and thinking through what I want.

Parameters:

  • 24-thread repeat in the threading, straight draw for maximum flexibility.
  • 4-5 threads of every repeat must be in warp yarn #2 (to stretch my small supply of warp yarn #1).
  • Vertical stripes every inch or half-inch, to make me look taller/thinner
  • Floats of no more than 4 warp threads (because this is being used as outerwear).

After some fiddling, I came up with this:

A circle and diamond striped weaving draft/pattern for my handwoven cashmere coat
A circle and diamond striped weaving draft/pattern for my handwoven cashmere coat

Explaining my reasoning behind this pattern a bit more:

  • Using a warp-dominant twill in the stripes of lighter color pops out the red stripes from a black background
  • Using a weft-dominant twill in the background provides a black background.  I want black to dominate in the fabric, toning down the red and keeping the coat from looking garish.  I also think it is easier to make out colored patterns against a black background than to make out black patterns against a colored background.  The eye is drawn to color, so naturally looks at the red first.
    It also results in fewer shafts being lifted, which is easier to weave.
    Using a twill background also ensures that the floats will be short.
  • I wanted to try motifs that were symmetrical and equal in height and width.  I felt just using diamonds didn’t provide enough visual interest, so I added a more circular pattern alternating with the diamonds.  Then I felt the shapes clashed, so I altered the circles to be more diamond-shaped.
  • I made the twill lines reversing because I like the look of herringbone weaves, and I think they will also make me look taller.
  • I put red in the warp and black in the weft because silk is shiny and cashmere is matte: shiny red silk will practically glow against a matte black cashmere background.

This pattern pleases me, but I want to try more!  Still on the slate to try are:

  • simple geometric shapes in 1/3 against 3/1 twill
  • Organic lines/patterns a la network drafting
  • anything else I can think up

The advantage to threading up straight draw on 24 shafts, with a 24-thread repeat, is that I can control each warp thread in the repeat separately and can therefore weave just about anything, provided it repeats every 24 threads.

I would be happy sampling just with these colors/pattern, but will probably work up a lot more drafts before settling on something.  This is because I’m leaving on an 11-day trip to visit relatives (mine and Mike’s) on Sunday and won’t have access to the loom or my yarns, so playing on the computer is all I can do (well, besides catching up on John Varley novels, and knitting socks).

Speaking of which, this blog will go on semi-hiatus starting Sunday, as I’m not sure when I’ll have Internet access.

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Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: cashmere coat, weaving drafts

Previous post: Thinking it through
Next post: Essay on bipolar disorder

Comments

  1. Laura says

    December 19, 2008 at 10:37 am

    Have a great holiday and best wishes for the coming year.

    Cheers,

    Laura

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