Tien Chiu

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You are here: Home / Archives for Creative works / Fiber Arts / Weaving

August 28, 2009 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

Silk & cashmere jacket

jacket

This came off the same warp as the goldenrod shawl and the garnet shawl. I dyed some 2/28 nm silk yarn for warp and some 2/28 nm cashmere for weft. For the warp, I alternated 2″ stripes of chestnut brown and golden brown; the weft I dyed a deep shade of eggplant.

The draft was my first attempt at network drafting, for which I had lots of generous help from Bonnie Inouye. Network drafting is a technique for making curved patterns in fabric, made available to the handweaving community by Alice Schlein in her book Network Drafting: An Introduction. It produces complex, curvy patterns with very little effort, and generally produces a very stable cloth.

Weaving the fabric for the jacket was quite a challenge; one of my shafts kept “floating” and so there were numerous flaws in the finished fabric.  But aha, the magic of cutting and sewing: I simply cut around the flaws!  There are a few visible in the finished piece, but on the whole it looks quite nice, better than the fabric did!

I lined the jacket with silk charmeuse, dyed chestnut brown to match the warp.  The pattern is a Butterick pattern, but I don’t recall the pattern number.

Draft of the jacket pattern
A close-up of the finished fabric
A photo of the finished cloth.
jacket

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: network drafting

August 28, 2009 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

tiger eye

tiger_eye_closeup

This piece was one of my very early pieces – I wove it on my first loom, an 8-shaft Baby Wolf.  It was my first attempt at designing my own patterns, and I’m still very proud of it.  I took the “Heart Throb Scarf” pattern from Twill Thrills: The Best of Weaver’s and modified it ruthlessly until I had a pattern I liked.  I cut off the top part of the heart, reflected the bottom half of the heart to produced a “slit pupil” effect, then tinkered with the pattern beneath the heart until I had a rounded cat’s eye.  I then hand-dyed the silk warp in two subtly different shades of orange (to add visual interest), and the cashmere weft in solid black.

The beads are by Gayle Herring, lampworked glass.

The tiger eye pattern The tiger eye pattern, as simulated by weaving software.
The sample I wove for the tiger eye shawl. The sample I wove before tackling the full shawl. It shows off the two different shades of orange quite nicely.
A closeup of the tiger eye pattern, showing off the beads. A closeup of the tiger eye pattern, showing off the beads.
The entire tiger-eye shawl. The complete tiger eye shawl.

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: advancing twill

August 23, 2009 by Tien Chiu 1 Comment

garnet shawl

Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads.

This shawl came out of the same warp as the goldenrod shawl and the silk and cashmere jacket.  I dyed some 2/28 nm silk yarn for warp and some 2/28 nm silk/cashmere for weft. For the warp, I alternated 2″³ stripes of chestnut brown and golden brown; the weft I dyed a deep garnet red.

The inspiration for this color came from a dear friend of mine, who is a Tibetan lama (very unusual for a Caucasian woman) and who had moved to India with her family.  I had offered her some mohair yarn in whatever shade she liked; she asked for a maroon or dark red, as that is the most appropriate shade for a Tibetan lama to wear.

So I mucked about in my dye samples, and finally decided to dye it using mostly red dye, with just a trace of turquoise to tone down the color.

I was absolutely shocked by the resulting shade: a glorious auburn red!  I hated to part with such beautiful yarn, but I had promised it, so I sent it on its way and promptly determined to dye some more!

This was one of my early attempts at network drafting, a very regular pattern resembling the overshot pattern called “orange peel”.  I still like the symmetry.

I beaded it with small amber beads and large garnet foil beads, but I have to warn you: those beads come off!  I’m constantly having to sew them back on.   Next time I use smaller beads!

Garnet weft shown with beads This is the garnet shawl in its preliminary stages, showing the beads
The garnet weft shown with the warp Another shot of the garnet weft placed against the warp.
Garnet shawl on the loom Half-woven garnet shawl. Here the pattern shows most clearly!
A large shot of the garnet shawl, showing the pattern. Larger photo of the garnet shawl
Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads. My garnet shawl, beaded.

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: network drafting

August 18, 2009 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

black fire

shawl

This shawl is closely related to “Liquid Fire“, except with a black weft instead of a changing-color weft.  It was inspired by an article by Flavian  Geis in Weaver’s magazine, which depicted a cocoon jacket.  My attempt at weaving the jacket was unsuccessful, but I had enough warp left over to weave a couple of shawls.  The first one I did in a black weft, and this is “Black Fire”.  It looks a little like tiger stripes, no?

The shawl on the loom The shawl on the loom, showing the warp color progression nicely. The paper tape on the right is to track how much I've woven.
Closeup of the pattern on the loom. A closeup of the pattern on the loom.
A closeup of the Black Fire Shawl A closeup, that shows the pattern clearly. It's an advancing twill, published by Flavian Geis in Weaver's Magazine.
A larger photo of the same shawl. A larger photo of the same shawl.
The reverse side of The reverse side of "Black Fire". Notice how this is slightly weft-dominant, making for a darker shawl.
The front side of The front side of Black Fire. The warp is slightly dominant on this side, giving more intense colors.

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: advancing twill, gradient colors

August 18, 2009 by Tien Chiu 4 Comments

liquid fire

liquid-fire
Photo courtesy of Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography

This shawl rose out of an unsuccessful attempt to weave the advancing-twill cocoon jacket published by Flavian Geis in Weaver’s magazine (can’t remember the issue).  It was a beautiful jacket, with a warp that gradually changed colors from red to yellow and back again, and a weft that alternated between black and a sequence that changed from red to yellow and back again.  The result was an absolutely beautiful jacket.  I wove it up only to discover that, alas, my loom was too narrow! and the resulting jacket was too short for anyone older than 8.  What a disappointment!

Nonetheless, I forged on.  I had enough warp on the loom for three more shawls, so I wove two shawls with black weft with the intent of giving them away.  Then I found myself looking at the pirns full of those beautiful red-to-yellow shades.  I had hand-dyed 20 skeins of yarn in colors changing gradually from red to yellow, so close in hue that it was nearly impossible to distinguish adjacent stripes.  I had enough left over on the pirns to weave one last shawl.  Would it work?  There was only one way to find out!

…so I wove up the shawl, in 1.5″ stripes of each weft color, to produce an absolutely stunning shawl.  I have since done more complex work with changing colors, but this was my first piece, and I love it.

Liquid Fire on the loom Liquid Fire on the loom (a Leclerc Diana). The paper tape on the right is a measuring-mechanism, that tells me how much I've woven, and when to change weft colors.
Liquid fire closeup A closeup of "Liquid Fire". Here the weft is red, showing the advancing twill pattern clearly.
A half-view of Liquid Fire. Half the Liquid Fire shawl. This photo shows how the weft color changes gradually from red at left to yellow at the center of the piece, producing a starburst-like pattern.
Liquid Fire shawl The completed Liquid Fire shawl. Photo courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.

Filed Under: Creative works, finished, Weaving Tagged With: advancing twill, gradient colors

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