Tien Chiu

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January 15, 2015 by Tien Chiu 6 Comments

Sea turtle shawl

I’m almost done with my placemats and table runner, and am starting to design other projects. In particular, I’m obsessed with sea turtles and strip piecing.

The idea originated in the Handwoven editorial calendar for 2015-16, which details the themes for each issue. One theme is traditional handweaving, which got me to thinking about West African kente cloth, which is woven in narrow strips and then assembled. I’m convinced that strip-weaving has tremendous design potential that American weavers have never really exploited, so I set out to design a piece that harnesses the power of strip-woven fabrics.

At the same time, I was considering the sea turtle design I came up with a few years back, and which got put on hold in favor of Phoenix Rising. The original concept was this draft, done on a tied weave point threading (with network drafted ties):

sea turtle design
sea turtle design

The original idea of this design was to exploit the power of designing on 40 shafts, using a point threading and symmetrical design to allow me even more detail. But that forced the sea turtles to march in half-drop order, which looked rather rigid. I wanted something that looked more flowing.

Then I realized that strip piecing would solve the problem. I could weave a long strip with irregularly spaced sea turtles (and even other motifs, like seaweed), then cut it up and sew it together, like this:

initial concept sketch for sea turtle shawl
initial concept sketch for sea turtle shawl

Much better! But not quite what I wanted, yet. The lines looked rigid, and the sea turtles were still swimming in formation, all going the same direction.

I spent a few days ruminating over this, and finally realized that I’d been unconsciously assuming that the join lines needed to be straight. But what if I cut the edges of the strips into curves? Then I could transform the seamlines into water-current ripples. And if I made the sea turtles smaller and a bit less detailed, I could weave them on a straight draw threading, allowing me to point them at whatever angle I liked.

So I came up with this sketch:

sea turtle shawl design
sea turtle shawl design

On the front of the shawl, the curved seamlines are simply pressed open, though I may use embroidery to accentuate the line (won’t know until I see it). On the back, the seams will be pressed open and then covered with aqua-colored, silk bias binding, possibly with more decorative embroidery. The edges of the shawl are bound using more silk bias binding, and the ends are hemmed and then finished with a beaded fringe. Before applying the beaded fringe, the shawl will be overdyed with very pale aqua and light sea green, low-water immersion dyeing technique, to give textured ripples as in the background.

I’m considering weaving beads into the cloth as well, but suspect that might be gilding the lily.

I haven’t yet figured out how to weave the motifs. I had been thinking of a tied weave with discontinuous weft (if that is even feasible), with the heavy pattern weft only appearing in the area with the sea turtle or seaweed motifs. (Need to do some research there!) I’m also thinking of brocade, but that is complicated as well since I’d like the motif to be visible and attractive on the back. (Shawls are two-sided, after all.) So I need to do some more ruminations on that – suggestions welcome!

But overall, I really like the idea. I’ll likely do some more development on it, in the next day or two. Saturday morning I leave for my writing retreat, and at that point I’ll want to focus on writing.

Speaking of design, Tigress has repurposed my quilt design wall. It is now her personal climbing wall, and an excellent route to her new favorite perch, the top of my yarn storage shelf. Here’s a video of the intrepid climber, caught in the act.

 

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: sea turtles, strip weaving

December 17, 2014 by Tien Chiu 3 Comments

Cutting off

Work has been insanely busy, but I carved out a few hours on Saturday to try fixing the loom. B. and I tried quite a few adjustments and checked lots of things, but weren’t able to figure out why shafts 36-40 are sporadically floating. At this point I’m thinking it may be related to the warp and the threading – I am using two warp beams, and have one warp threaded on shafts 1-20 and the other threaded on shafts 21-40. I’m guessing that the tension on shafts 21-40 is somehow too high, which is causing the float. But when I reduce the tension, threads start sticking. Foo.

So after sober reflection, I’ve decided to cut off the shadow weave warp. I think I could probably get it working eventually, but I can’t afford to spend the next month or two fiddling with it – I have a sample exchange deadline coming up in February, so I need to have some actual woven cloth before then!

But more importantly, I need to focus on the book, and I can have only one primary focus. This warp is complex and difficult. It’s a challenge. But what I need right now is “comfort” weaving, something pleasant that I can use as a break from writing. At the moment it feels like I’m banging my head against two projects at once. So, much as I hate to do it, the shadow weave warp has got to go.

Which does not mean that I’m giving up on the project! Far from it – but I’m putting it on hold until the book is a bit further along.

I won’t get out the scissors until January (when we return from visiting family), but I’m already thinking about the next project. This is an exciting opportunity to weave something relatively simple and mindless, using up some of my thicker threads. There are a number of yarns I’ve wanted to experiment with for awhile, but was always too deep in some big complicated project to try.

I think the first thing to try is the sea turtles. Remember this draft?

sea turtles weaving draft with networked ties, on 40 shafts
sea turtles weaving draft with networked ties, on 40 shafts

I had originally intended to weave it up on a 140/2 silk warp with 60/2 silk/cashmere as the “heavy” thread. But I don’t want to put on another superfine-thread warp right now. So I’m thinking I might drop back a notch and weave it with a 60/2 silk ground warp and a 2/30 nm cashmere pattern thread. That will be much easier to weave.

I’m thinking a 12″ scarf, which would be quick and easy to thread. Keeping the width to 12″ would also allow me to weave a second scarf using some qiviut (musk ox) yarn given to me by a friend. I don’t have much of it, so every bit is precious – but I think I have enough for a scarf. If I can figure out how to draw it, I’ll likely do a musk ox head – though that might be challenging to make look good, as a preliminary image search suggests that musk ox heads look distressingly similar to a shapeless blob with horns. I need to do something symmetric, as I’m using a point threading. I would really like to use something with an Arctic theme, so if you have ideas, comment away!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: phoenix rising, phoenix rising reloaded, sea turtles

May 6, 2014 by Tien Chiu Leave a Comment

Dye day and marmalades

I had another dye day on Sunday – no tie-dyes this time, but my friend Ginny and I wound all the skeins I needed for the color study, wound and dyed about 2 pounds of cashmere yarn for a project she was working on, and wound and dyed about 18,000 yards of yarn for the sea-turtle project. (That is enough yarn to weave samples, do a set of samples for the Fine Threads Study Group, and weave a shawl. We’ll see if my enthusiasm lasts that long!)

Here’s the sea turtle yarn:

sea turtle yarn - still wet
sea turtle yarn – still wet
sea turtle yarn - fully dry
sea turtle yarn – fully dry

The colors are more like the first photo (wet) than the second, which looks too blue.

I’m not sure if these skeins are going to work – I had to mess with the skeins a good bit in order to get even dye take-up, so they may well be tangled. Next time I will use smaller skeins and soak them for longer. However, I am very pleased by the even-ness of the dye job, especially on the lighter skein. Pastel colors are very difficult to dye evenly, and when I put the skein in initially, the outside instantly soaked up the dye while the inside remained white. I solved this (eventually) by letting it soak in the cold dyebath overnight – no heat – and the color evened out over the long soaking period. Whew! Saved.

The dark green yarn is the pattern weft. I think I will probably overdye it in blue – the piece will be boring if it’s all sea green. I do plan to overdye the finished piece in mottled shades of light blue (the warp is going to start out white), but I’d like more variation in hue than a light overdye will give me.

I wish you could feel the pattern weft! It is a 2/60 nm yarn (15,000 yards per pound) that was sold to me as 100% silk, but by the feel it must have a substantial percentage of cashmere. I’m not complaining! It is positively sumptuous to the touch. Assuming I haven’t tangled it irretrievably, I think I’m going to love this shawl. (The tabby weft is 120/2 silk, so not exactly shabby, either.)

And yesterday, I made another batch of marmalade. Three batches, actually – I spent all evening in front of the stove and barely finished in time. I made strawberry-blood orange marmalade:

strawberry - blood orange marmalade
strawberry – blood orange marmalade

And Sorrento lemon marmalade:

Sorrento lemon marmalade
Sorrento lemon marmalade

And aprium jam with candied ginger and vanilla:

aprium-ginger-vanilla jam
aprium-ginger-vanilla jam

What’s the difference between marmalade and jam? Technically, a marmalade is bits of fruit suspended in jelly, while a jam is made from whole fruit and typically thick and chunky. (I didn’t know that until reading the Blue Chair Jam Cookbook, which is where I got my recipes.) The strawberry-blood orange marmalade is particularly beautiful – strawberry jelly with bits of blood orange suspended in the jelly. And the flavor! To die for. I will make this again, I think.

The other marmalades/jams came out nicely, though the ginger and vanilla were too strong in the aprium jam, I think.

Book-wise, I have finished tearing the visual design chapter completely apart, rearranging it, and rewriting all the text. I now need to polish the text a bit more and redo all the examples. Not looking forward to that part – it took me ages to do the initial set of examples (for the blog), but I think redoing them in more cohesive form will greatly strengthen the chapter.

Plans for the next few days? Work on the book some more, work on the embroidery piece, dye the weft yarns for the color study and the fabric for my muslins, and make bergamocello (bergamot liqueur) and more bergamot marmalade. My friend Alfred is coming over on Sunday to help me put the auto-advance unit and fly shuttle assembly onto Emmy. If the weather is hot, we’ll do some more dyeing; if the weather is cool, we’ll make chocolates. I have a lot of new flavors to try out, and I need to test my tempering machine!

And finally, here is Tigress the Mighty Huntress, chasing a “bird” cat toy. She’s quite the athlete, isn’t she?

Filed Under: All blog posts, dyeing, food, textiles Tagged With: sea turtles

April 16, 2014 by Tien Chiu 3 Comments

Focusing

I’ve been feeling pretty frustrated the last few weeks, as I’ve been doing Lots of Stuff but not actually getting anything done on my big projects! So I spent some time thinking about it, and concluded that the problem was too many projects. In particular, I have the book and Phoenix Rising to deal with, plus the color study and a collection of other minor projects. I really want to finish the book, or at least the rewritten book proposal. And I can’t hold two major projects in my head at once. So I am putting Phoenix Rising on hold until the book proposal is ready. That will be a few months, at least. I need to focus.

Just to demonstrate how well I focus, here’s a “before” photo of this weekend’s distraction:

bergamots and Rangpur limes
bergamots and Rangpur limes

I managed to score some bergamots and some Rangpur limes – both quite difficult to find! – so I will be making marmalade this weekend. The plan is to make bergamot marmalade, Rangpur lime marmalade, pink grapefruit marmalade with rose geranium, and (possibly) Meyer lemon and strawberry marmalade with rose geranium. More likely I will only make the first three – it depends on my enthusiasm after the first few batches.

I also managed to score some goose eggs, which I had never seen on the market before:

goose eggs
goose eggs

They are HUGE – the quarter is to give a sense of scale. (I should have used a chicken egg to show just how huge they are!) It’s a pity I’m not doing egg art anymore – these would be perfect.

But mostly I’m just curious what goose eggs taste like. I’ve had chicken eggs, quail eggs, duck eggs, and even emu eggs – but never goose eggs. So this will be interesting.

I have also been working on my sea turtles again, prepping for the next warp on the loom. Here is the latest version, with more pleasing placement and proportions:

sea turtles weaving draft with networked ties, on 40 shafts
sea turtles weaving draft with networked ties, on 40 shafts

However, it’s a two-shuttle weave. I’m currently trying to turn the draft, which would make it a one-shuttle weave. But I’ve run into some snags. It’s going to take some concentrated thought to understand this, I think. I understand how to turn a normal two-tie weave, but a tied weave with a networked six-shaft set of ties on a three-end initial? Not so much. But it is a delightful challenge; I’ll probably spend another few mornings working it out. If you’ve done such a thing, please drop me a line! It would save me a lot of time if I could chat with someone experienced in such things.

The nice part about the sea-turtle warp is that it would also work very nicely with phoenixes. So if I turn it, I’ll likely paint both the pattern and ground warps, one section in blues and greens and one in reds and oranges, so I can weave both turtles and phoenixes.

And, finally, I’m planning to do a small indigo vat this weekend, helping out a friend who needs to do some indigo dyeing. I haven’t attempted an indigo vat in at least a decade or two, so this should be interesting! But to make life simpler, I’ve ordered some pre-reduced indigo crystals from Dharma Trading Company. We’ll probably try that this Saturday. I’m really tempted to try some shibori dyeing as well. But maybe not – that would occupy the rest of the week, and I actually do want to spend some time on the book. I’m deep into one of my sample chapters (the one on visual design) and want to finish the rough draft this week.

And, for those patient enough to follow through to the end, here is Fritz making a new discovery: the joy of drinking from a dripping faucet! As soon as I step into the bathroom, he comes running down the hall, hoping I’ll turn on the sink faucet for him. And I usually do.

Fritz drinking from faucet
Fritz drinking from faucet

 

Filed Under: All blog posts, dyeing, food, textiles, weaving Tagged With: sea turtles

April 1, 2014 by Tien Chiu 2 Comments

Blissful idleness

I finished my Designing Fabrics Study Group paper yesterday, squeaking in just under the deadline. And that was it! No more deadlines until the end of May. (And that one is not making me sweat…it’s the Fine Threads Study Group samples, and I can always send phoenixes if I don’t get done in time.)

So I’ve decided to spend a few days basking in the bliss of idleness.

Lest you think this an April Fool’s joke (and it would be a good one, wouldn’t it?), I will hastily add that I’m not actually doing nothing – just catching up on email, cleaning the studio, percolating on what to do with the remaining 11 sections of the color study, and finishing out some minor commitments. But I’m enjoying not having any deadlines for anything – after cranking hard for several months, I can finally sit back and take a breather. Hurray! Time to do non-essential things.

Once I’m done taking a break, there are a few projects I’d like to work on. The first one is the book. I came back from my design workshop in Colorado with a much clearer sense of audience. I had been split between writing a book for novice designers, and one for intermediate/advanced designers who were ready to “up” their game. The workshop made me realize that I want to write a book for intermediate/advanced designers. That means I can eliminate some of the earlier chapters, and need to beef up the later chapters, especially the sections on what makes a good design. And now that I have some free time, I plan to make those revisions.

Weaving-wise, after the color study is done, I plan to warp up with a fine-threads warp. I’m seriously considering going back to my sea turtles with network-drafted ties:

weaving draft for 30 shaft sea turtles with 6-end network drafted ties
weaving draft for 30 shaft sea turtles with 6-end network drafted ties

These will be appropriate for the Fine Threads Study Group samples, plus they’re just darned cool! And, if I set things up right, I should be able to use the same warp for more phoenixes. I think it would be interesting to weave them with wavy lines in the background.

I’m still thinking about it, though. My main reservation is that I’d like to use 140/2 for the ground fabric and 60/2 silk for the pattern weft. Last time, with phoenixes and a turned summer and winter draft, I wound up setting the warp at 72 ends per inch. Since this draft is not turned, that means weaving with two shuttles. At about 145 picks per inch.

Yeah. I have a high tolerance for “forever warps”, but that might exceed even my limits, especially if I plan to weave yardage for a scarf/shawl. If I turn it – and I’d have to figure out how to do that – I’d have to put the pattern colors in the warp. That works fine for a single color, but I want to experiment with different colors in both turtles and phoenixes. I could paint the warp, but that gets into a different set of headaches. Lots of tradeoffs, lots of variables. I’m going to let that percolate while working on the color study.

And then, eventually, I want to get back to the phoenix piece. I have a wonderful idea, brought on by this book:

"Stitch and Structure" book
“Stitch and Structure” book

I absolutely love the fabric on the front cover, and think the textured, ribbed look would make a great background for a phoenix woven in kid mohair/silk, then scrunch-dyed afterwards. I’d change the color of the background to dark blues and purples, of course, and maybe embellish the phoenix with beads, ribbons, etc. – I think it could make a really nice piece. Probably a wall hanging, as I think the background would be too thick and stiff for clothing.

All these juicy ideas! Seems like I won’t be idle for long. 🙂

Meanwhile, Fritz is not idle, either. He is taking his “guard cat” duties quite seriously, spending much of his day either on the rug by the back door (where he keeps an alert eye for cat toys, aka the giant American cockroaches that live outside and occasionally venture in) or by the front door, waiting for us to get home. But he also guards other things, like laundry baskets. Especially if there is clean laundry involved.

Fritz guarding the laundry basket
Fritz guarding the clean laundry

He gets cat hair on everything, of course, but isn’t that a small price for knowing your laundry is safe?

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: sea turtles

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