Tien Chiu

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Shoulder pads

I really should have made these before putting on the sleeves and facings, but I made my own shoulder pads today.  It was interesting to contrast them with commercial pads – these are designed for the specific garment, using the pattern pieces for the front and rear shoulders, and (unsurprisingly) they fit a heckuva lot better than the cheap commercial ones!

Here are a few photos of the shoulder-pads-in-progress:

The base for the shoulder pads is two layers of hair canvas, layered with one layer gathered up slightly so the base layer is forced into a curve. Here I have laid them on top of the dress form. Notice how the shoulder on the left is lower than the other?
The base for the shoulder pads is two layers of hair canvas, layered with one layer gathered up slightly so the base layer is forced into a curve. Here I have laid them on top of the dress form. Notice how the shoulder on the left is lower than the other?
Side view of the shoulder pad, showing the layers of cotton batting. One starts with a small pad about half the size of the finished shoulder pad, then gets progressively larger in the upper layers.
Side view of the shoulder pad, showing the layers of cotton batting. One starts with a small pad about half the size of the finished shoulder pad, then gets progressively larger in the upper layers.
Shoulder pads, completed and sewn together, steam pressed on the dress form so they'll hold their shape.
Shoulder pads, completed and sewn together, steam pressed on the dress form so they'll hold their shape. Note that the one on the lower shoulder is considerably thicker, "raising" the shoulder to match the other one. (Unfortunately the dress form is tipped a bit sideways, making it harder to see in the photo.)
A commercial shoulder pad, for comparison.
A commercial shoulder pad, for comparison.
The coat with set-in shoulder pads. Notice how the shoulders now appear to be of equal height!
The coat with set-in shoulder pads. Notice how the shoulders now appear to be of equal height!

Now I’m just about done with the coat – I’ve stabstitched the collar seams together, so all that’s left is the lining.  I’m sort of hoping I can get it finished before CNCH!   It’ll take some dedicated sewing tonight and tomorrow night, but, well, we’ll see.