Tien Chiu

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Playing in the dye pots

Yeah, I know. I start by saying “Less fiber content” and next thing you know, I’m posting about dyeing? But hey – that’s what I was up to last weekend. That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it.

My wardrobe, as you may or may not know, consists almost exclusively of tie-dyed clothing. This isn’t because I’m a ‘60s child (I wasn’t born in the ‘60s), nor because I’m a Grateful Dead fan. It’s mostly a practical choice: when you are a five-foot-tall woman with exceptionally wide shoulders, you can pretty much guarantee that nothing off the rack is going to fit.

(How exceptionally wide? The average shoulder width for an American woman is 14.4 inches, and for a man it’s 16.1 inches. Mine are 17.5 inches shoulderbone to shoulderbone – plus all that muscle from powerlifting. I’m basically a freakishly short female linebacker.)

To accommodate my odd dimensions, I buy white T-shirts and white men’s shirts from Dharma Trading Company and dye them so they don’t all look identical. This strategy has worked beautifully for me for many years. 🙂

But then I got a fabulous tattoo covering most of my right arm.

My original theory was that I’d get the tattoo and then wear T-shirts when I wanted to cover it up, and tank tops when I wanted to show it off. As soon as I got the tattoo, though, I realized, “Why the *#& would I ever want to hide this??? I’m going to wear tank tops all year round!!”

Of course the only problem with this theory was that I didn’t actually have any tank tops. Dharma Trading to the rescue! I dyed eight tank tops the weekend after I got the tattoo. Whew! Disaster averted.

But a girl likes to have some variety. So last weekend I dyed eight more, plus a T-shirt for Jamie, who (much to my relief) has FINALLY relented and allowed me to dye something for her.

Here’s what came out of the dyepots (pardon the less-than-perfect photos; I was in a rush):

Black bordered mandala tank top
Rainbow mandala tank top
Blue and rusty orange scrunch pattern tank top
Magenta-purple and green scrunch pattern tank top
Square pattern, yellow-red-orange turquoise and purple tie dye tank top
flame pattern tank top

The last tank top is actually double dyed. That is to say, it’s actually been dyed twice. The first time it was dyed like the second to last one (the orange and yellow flame pattern). Unfortunately, it got a stain on it, so of course the only thing to do was overdye the stain. So I tied it up in a circle pattern, put red around the edges, and dyed the outside black.

Preventing the dye from getting where you don’t want it is a bit of a tricky process – dye has a way of splashing and seeping in very inconvenient ways, especially when it’s something like black on yellow where mistakes would be VERY obvious. (The dye gods are capricious!)

To protect against this, I used a method called “capping” which is just a fancy way of saying “stick the part you don’t want contaminated into a plastic bag and then tie the bag on tightly before applying more dye. I actually capped it twice, once to keep the flame-patterned dye from getting contaminated with red and once to keep the red area from getting contaminated with black.

Here’s what it looked like when fully capped and dyed:

Red starburst tie dye in progress photo, with the red and yellow areas capped off in a plastic bag

And here’s what it looked like when it was partially uncapped:

Red starburst tie dye, partially uncapped, with the red portion showing

Here the first plastic bag has been removed to reveal the red portions but the orange-and-yellow is still protected.

You might be wondering about the sink full of water with ICE floating in it that appears in the background of the photo. The ice is the secret to keeping your tie-dyes bright when you’re rinsing out the dye.

There’s a potentially dangerous moment when you dunk your beautiful multicolor tie-dye into the water. With fiber-reactive dyes, there’s always a lot more dye than the fabric can actually react with, and the moment you plunge the fabric into the water, a ton of loose dye comes off into the water…and can potentially stain your beautiful shirt.

However, if the water is freezing cold, the dye can’t react. That’s because the dye reaction requires alkalinity, moisture, dye, and some heat to take place. The fabric has soda ash (alkalinity) and dye in it, so if you put it in warm water, all four dye reaction components are present. If you put it in ice water, though, there’s not enough heat for the dye to react, and the loose dye can’t stain the fabric.

At the same time, the first rinse bath rinses out the soda ash that gives the dye the alkalinity it needs to react. So after the ice water rinse, all the other rinses are safe to do in room temperature or warm water for as long as you like. In fact, it’s recommended to soak overnight in cold water to make the rinse-out process as easy as possible. The rinse water will turn super-dark with loose dye – but it all comes out. No dye reacts with the fabric. All because of that first ice-water rinse!

Better living through chemistry!

I have another dye day scheduled next weekend – some friends from waaaaaay back in high school are coming over and we’re going to do more tie-dyes together. Since it’s starting to get cooler, I may do some sweatshirts, and maybe some T-shirts and tank tops for Jamie.

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A headfirst plunge down the weasel den

Long time readers of this blog may recall that a bit over four years ago, I decided to get back into shape (helped liberally along by a diagnosis of Type 2 diabetes). In this blog post, I wrote about my decision to take up powerlifting, a form of weightlifting, as my vehicle for doing so, and my decision to measure my progress in units of weasels, which (lacking a NIST-approved Standard Weasel measurement), I declared to be four ounces. I figured getting into shape would be more fun if I didn’t take it too seriously, and measuring my progress in units of weasels would (a) seem a lot faster (bigger numbers!) and (b) more hilarious (just imagine all those weasels scampering around over the barbell!) than measuring in pounds.

Powerlifting consists of three lifts:

  1. the bench press, where you lie down on a bench, lift a barbell out of a rack, lower it to your chest, and push it back up again,
  2. the back squat (usually just called the squat), where you put a barbell over your shoulders, squat down, and stand back up again,
  3. the deadlift, where you squat down, pick up a barbell that’s sitting on the floor, stand up straight, and put it back down again.

At the time I started, I could squat 380 weasels (=95 pounds), deadlift 380 weasels (=95 pounds), and I’m not sure about bench press, but I think it was about 260 weasels (=65 pounds). Not too bad for a couch potato, actually.

I spent about three and a half years working with Toussaint, an excellent fitness trainer at Silicon Valley Athletics. Three years or so into training, I finally blasted through the 1000-weasel mark in both squat and deadlift – 250 pounds in each! – and shortly after that, the 1200-weasel mark at 300 pounds in squat. In an idle moment, I looked up the stats and realized that this was a heavier squat weight than anyone in my age class had lifted at the California State Championships in 2019. Whoa. I had no idea I was that strong.

At that point, I decided to enter my first powerlifting competition, the “I Powerlift Like a Girl” meet with NorCal Powerlifting. Needless to say, I had to dress in theme, so I made myself a T-shirt for the occasion:

Tien in an "I Powerlift Like a Girl" T-shirt

I did…okay…in the meet. Depending on how you calculated, I placed either 3rd or 5th out of the 15 women who entered, but I felt I could have lifted significantly heavier if I hadn’t been so nervous. That’s okay – I got the first-competition jitters out of the way and now I know what to expect!

Afterwards, I did some serious thinking and decided that I wanted to get much more serious about powerlifting. Which meant making some changes. While I loved my trainer, Toussaint, he was a more general fitness trainer, and couldn’t teach me the more specialized points of powerlifting. I switched to a more specialized strength trainer at the same gym, Joey, who bumped me up significantly in a few more months. But I realized I was going to have to go to a coach who specialized in powerlifting if I wanted to get really good at it.

So I looked around on Yelp, found someone with great reviews, and reluctantly told my (wonderful) trainer I was going to leave and go train with someone more specialized.

“You can’t do that!” he said. My heart sank. I had been hoping to avoid a scene.

“You can’t possibly train with this guy,” he said. “You have to train with Dan Green. Dan’s the best guy in the Bay Area, and possibly in all of California. You’ve got to go with Dan.”

And Joey would not take “no” for an answer. He was absolutely adamant that Dan was the best of the best.

So I looked Dan up. It was…intimidating, to say the least. Dan has his own Wikipedia page. He holds world records in squat (783 pounds without special equipment) and total lifts (2099 lbs). AnimalPak.com has posters of him for sale on their website, for heaven’s sake.

Here’s a fun video of Dan in action (skip to the last two minutes if you’re the impatient type and just want to see the big weights):

More to the point, though, he’s also a great trainer and a really sweet guy. Definitely the “gentle giant” sort.

Anyway, I went over to his gym, Boss Barbell, and despite my sheer terror at the idea of training with a legendary powerlifter (because there was and is soooooooo much I don’t know about powerlifting outside of how to do the basic lifts) talked to him about training with him.

The net of it is, I’m now training with Dan. I can’t afford to train regularly with him (Dan’s rates are high, as you’d imagine for someone of his stature), so I’m doing video coaching with him as well as one personal training session every other week. Dan puts together a training schedule for me in a spreadsheet, I video my workouts and provide subjective commentary in the spreadsheet, and he gives me feedback on each exercise in the spreadsheet. Then I decide which of the lifts I want to work on most, and we do that in our every-other-week session.

That’s actually turning out to work just as well, or maybe even better than, working out more regularly with Dan. Because working out on my own with written feedback makes me think about what I’m doing, rather than listening to a trainer, where it seems to go in one ear and out the other. As a result, I feel like I actually learn faster in some ways. I wouldn’t want to give up working directly with a trainer, because more detailed feedback is very helpful too, but I’m finding it easier to take in one or two comments at a time, and really think about those comments, than it is to get a lot of information that I can’t remember later. (This is really making me think about what people say about “learning styles” and how every student is different!)

I will say that the first week of training was SUPER HARD. Coming into a gym where everyone else was an experienced powerlifter and I had no idea what I was doing half the time (I mean, I was looking up some of the exercises on YouTube to see how they were done!) – plus having to face a bunch of super buff, muscled-to-the-max men working out when I am emphatically neither – was both demoralizing and terrifying. I basically made it through only because I had decided I was going to do it and when I have put the death-lock on I simply do not back down. But geez, it was hard.

One thing that made it a lot easier, though, was that I went in one day mid-morning rather than in the late afternoon and found Dan there training someone who (like me) was decidedly NOT a super buff guy. Her name was Deborah and she was 72 years old (I know because she proudly told me 🙂 ). She couldn’t have weighed more than 120 pounds. And she was deadlifting something like 160 pounds! and could do more push-ups than I can. I want to be Deborah when I grow up!!

Anyway, it was a HUGE relief to see that (a) Dan isn’t just training big buff guys, and (b) there were other women going to the gym. Representation matters!

Since then I’ve discovered that the gym has very different vibes depending on what times you get there. 5pm is when all the big buff guys arrive in force, and the gym tends to be packed then. Mornings tend to be very laid back, but I can’t work out in the mornings and still have enough brain left to work on the Academy. So I work out in the late afternoon, when my work day is over (I start at 5am) but it’s still fairly mellow.

The training schedule is tough. The actual workouts last anywhere from an hour and a half for the shortest ones to two hours (more usual), but by the time you throw in stretches, warmups and cooldowns, plus travel time to/from the gym, it’s more like 3 hours/workout, 5 days a week. It’s like a part-time job!

Here’s a video of me in one of my usual workouts. Here I’m doing one set of deadlifts – 275 pounds for 5 reps. Not as impressive as Dan’s 914 pounds, but not bad either!

I’m really enjoying this trip down the weasel den. My goal right now is to see if I can beat the highest world record for my age/weight class (there are different federations – this is the max I’ve found). That is 370 pounds in squat (1480 weasels), 435 pounds in deadlift (1740 weasels), and 231 lbs in bench press (924 weasels).

I have no idea if I can do that, but it’s worth a try. My best crack at it is going to be in squat, where I can currently do 300 pounds, but I can also do 315 in deadlift so I might be in with a chance. Bench press I can only do 135, so that’s probably out of reach.

Looping aaaaaaaall the way back to my original fitness goals – while my weight hasn’t changed one whit from when I started four years ago, I’m clearly a lot leaner than I was, I can see muscles flexing in the mirror, and shirts that used to fit just fine are now tight across the shoulders and arms (and looser in the belly)! I’m seriously considering starting a “before and after” series of photos – I just wish I’d started them sooner.

So – who knows where weasels can lead you?

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Time for a blog reboot

It’s been some years since I posted to this blog with any regularity. During most of this time, I’ve been completely consumed with the teaching business. (Making a career change is hard. Starting a business is very hard. Combining the two – all I can say is, it’s been an insane six years and I’m very grateful that I inherited my mother’s inexhaustible energy and iron will. Thanks, Ma!)

But I’ve also been torn about posting to the blog for other reasons.

For one thing, there has been very little fiber stuff going on that hasn’t been directly related to the teaching business. That’s partly because there hasn’t been much going on, period, that hasn’t been directly related to the business (working 60-70 hours/week leaves very little time for anything else). But it’s also because when you’re living, thinking, and breathing weaving for work all your waking hours, the last thing you want to do with the extra hour or so you have left is…more weaving.

So why not write about the business-related fiber stuff? Well, basically because I am fiercely committed to keeping this blog non-commercial. This blog has always been about my personal creative life and thoughts, and I feel strongly that this is incompatible with writing about the business side. It’s too easy to slide into marketing or teaching stuff and I emphatically feel that this blog should be about neither.

Having said that, there are still adventures and interesting thoughts to share, and I plan to start sharing them again, since I have a trifle more free time and mental bandwidth than I have had over the last five years. (I am through the HUGE learning curve on figuring out teaching, marketing, and running a business, and while launching the Handweaving Academy is a huge amount of work, I have a business partner and a small but intrepid team to help, so I don’t have to do everything by myself now. Thank goodness!) But I want to give fair warning: while I hope you’ll find it of interest, there will likely be less weaving content than there historically has been. More about powerlifting (a style of weightlifting, and my new passion), philosophy, good food, and (of course) cats.

Onward!

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“The Girl with the Phoenix Tattoo”

Silly people, naming the movie after a dragon tattoo….

Tien with a phoenix tattoo

You may recall that, back in September, I decided to get a tattoo to celebrate all the life changes over the last six years. It was going to be from a very talented South Korean artist, who would have been visiting the U.S. in November. I say “would have” because, alas, it didn’t pan out. He got stopped at the border and was abruptly deported back to South Korea (I don’t know why).

Cue panic for awhile, as I searched for an artist who could capture my idea. It really wasn’t easy. Tattoo art, like all art, comes in lots of different styles, but the only style I found that really captured the dynamic feel I wanted in my phoenix was Korean blackwork, which, not too surprisingly, is practiced primarily by tattoo artists in….Korea!

After briefly considering a trip to Korea (which shows you how obsessive and/or desperate I was), I stumbled upon an absolutely fantastic artist, Cache, who works at Black Serum Tattoo in San Francisco. Her work was exactly what I had been looking for – bold, clean, gorgeous, and with a sense of flowing movement that very few tattoo artists capture in her work.

Of course, great tattoo artists, like other great artists, book up fast. I wound up waiting almost three months for her to open up her appointment book for new tattoo bookings. When the booking form opened on her website, I leaped in instantly to put in my application – and it’s a good thing I’d written up my entire application in advance, because there were only 100 application slots available and they were gone in less than nine minutes. (She is good!)

I was delighted when she wrote me three days later to let me know that she’d accepted my tattoo application. I’d have to wait two more months, but I was going to get my tattoo!!

So I waited, patiently-impatiently, for May 31, which will henceforth be known as “Tattoo Day”.

Here’s how the process went.

First, she drew the design to custom-fit my arm, and sent the artwork to me the day before the appointment. I suggested some changes, and she did the edits.

On Tattoo Day, she printed out the design at various sizes, and taped the prints to my arm so I could decide what size I wanted her to make it:

Tien with tattoo image taped to her arm

The process could best be described as: “No, bigger.” “No, bigger.” “A bit bigger?” “No, even bigger than that.” “AHA! Yes, THAT BIG.”

Next step was to print it on paper in special purple stencil ink. It looked just like ink from purple ditto masters from grade school. Which I didn’t tell Cache about, because it would have dated me. (I’m pretty sure she was young enough that “ditto masters” would have earned a politely blank stare.)

A little transfer goo onto my arm, smooth the paper with the stencil ink onto my arm, wait a few seconds, and presto! Purple phoenix on my arm.

purple phoenix stencil ready for tattooing

Last chance to change your mind!

No second thoughts?

Okay! Get in the tattoo chair, and let’s get this party going!!

Half an hour later:

After half an hour of tattooing - the bottom half of the phoenix outlined.

Getting a tattoo on my outer arm, as it turned out, wasn’t terribly painful – about on par with having the dentist poking at your gums while cleaning your teeth – but it was still uncomfortable enough that I decided to take a break every half-hour or so. So here is the every half-hour “stop-motion video” of the tattoo being drawn.

After a bit over an hour of tattooing:

phoenix tattoo fully outlined in black
fully outlined in black

After almost two hours of tattoo time:

fully outlined and the bottom of the black portion filled in

After two and a half hours of tattooing:

black parts of phoenix mostly done

After three hours:

black parts of phoenix tattoo finished, red parts partially filled in

The artist at work:

Cache tattooing my arm
Cache working on my arm

And, after almost four hours of tattooing time (five and a half hours in the shop), the finished work:

finished phoenix tattoo

And the fully healed tattoo, three and a half weeks later:

To say I couldn’t be happier would be a massive understatement. I LOVE this tattoo. It symbolizes and sums up so many of the changes in my life over the last decade. I’ll wear it proudly for the rest of my life.

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New loom, and an interesting class

It’s been awhile! I’ve been in a slump, weaving-wise, mostly because I’ve been teaching, which leaves time for basically nothing else. Also, I have to admit that I’ve been sulking on the Fire warp, because after tying 2,640 threads and then discovering I’ll have to completely redo it, well, wouldn’t anyone?

In the meantime, I’ve decided that I want to play a little bit with shaft weaving. I’ve realized that TC-2 jacquard looms have their limitations, and one of them is that they really don’t deal well with complex color patterning in the threading. That’s because they adjust the sett by dropping out threads. If the warp is solid colored or very simple color patterning (alternating colors, for example) that’s fine. If the color patterning is more complex than that, however, it will destroy your carefully arranged colors. So if you have to do any sett adjustments, you’re in trouble.

Because of that, I concluded that I do want a shaft loom for playing with complex color patterned shaft-woven designs, e.g. warp gradients with multiple color gradients (two color gradients I can do on the jacquard), echo weave, etc. I’ve done some work on Ruth, my 8-shaft Baby Wolf, but in the process, I’ve realized once again that I really don’t enjoy weaving on tied-up treadle looms.

So (history repeats itself!), I found and bought a new-to-me 24-inch, 24-shaft AVL Workshop Dobby Loom, which I flew out and purchased last Saturday and which is en route via UPS as I type. She should arrive on Tuesday, and I’m looking forward to weaving on her! Breaking with my mathematical tradition, I’m naming her Iris, after the goddess of the rainbow. I figure that’s a good patron for a color teacher.

What to put on her first? Not sure, but I may start exploring echo weave. I’ve never done anything with echo weave yet, but I’ve been curious about it for ages.

In January I’m starting a new class, not weaving related but which promises to be extremely interesting. It’s the altMBA, put on by Akimbo, a company started by Seth Godin, who is an Internet marketing guru I’ve been following for quite some time. Seth is of the (very strong) opinion that modern education has it all wrong: it’s about creating conforming, compliant workers rather than leaders. (See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXpbONjV1Jc for his excellent 15-minute TED talk on the subject.) The altMBA is his 1-month workshop answer to the MBA: the kinds of things the MBA should teach. It’s not about teaching particular topics: it’s about how to think about various business-related topics. You get thirteen “prompts” over 31 days, and you work on them in small groups with your cohort. I had wanted to do it for years, but until now I never had enough unstructured time to do it. But here I am, and I’m doing it starting January 17th.

What made me decide to do it was seeing one of the prompts, on decisionmaking. The description itself is 9 pages long, all packed with brilliant insights. It starts with the point that making a decision is a choice in itself, and not making a decision (or deferring a decision) is a legitimate choice, but one that should be taken consciously, not just “kicking the can down the road” because we’re sticking our heads in the sand. So look for unmade decisions.

Then, there’s the point that good decisions are not the same as good outcomes. Good decisions are ones where you used the right decisionmaking process and had good data. Good outcomes are where you got lucky and things turned out well.

Then they talk about sunk costs – the cost of prior decisions that may bias our next decision even though they’re irrelevant now. And then the importance of how you frame the problem, with examples.

And then they have you reflect and discuss several past decisions – both yours and others’ – before tackling a decision that you yourself are facing, with specific guidelines and insights about the decisionmaking process.

You write up your thought process and decision, post it in the discussion forum, and get at least 5 comments back from people in your discussion group. Then, two days later, once you’ve had a chance to think about what they’ve said, you post your reflections in the forum.

And then you write up and ship another prompt. Every 2-3 days you do a prompt, for 31 days.

What I love about the idea of this workshop is that it isn’t teaching you how to do things. I can figure out how to do things. How to do things is easy once you figure out the right Google search term and find the right class or YouTube video. How to think about things is hard, and that’s what I think the altMBA is teaching.