Tien Chiu

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You are here: Home / Archives for color study

March 21, 2014 by Tien Chiu

First observations on the color study

I debugged the warp this morning – no threading errors, and only one sleying error! A few other errors along the way, but nothing that couldn’t be solved easily.

And here is the first few inches of cloth:

first woven cloth on the color study
first woven cloth on the color study

I dyed the beginning of the warp solid black, to make it easier to catch errors. I used the first few inches to play with complementary colors, blue and orange. Here’s a closeup:

closeup of first few inches
closeup of first few inches

The two bands of orange intrigue me – the one in the lower section is somewhat subdued, and blends nicely, while the second one really jumps out like a sore thumb. This is partly because there is more orange in the top band, and stronger blues in the top band (which naturally makes the complementary color – orange – jump out more). But it’s also because the second band of orange is woven in a different pattern (4/4 satin as opposed to 1/7 satin) than the pale blue and turquoise. Farther away (as in the first photo), all you see is color and the difference really isn’t that emphatic. Close up, the difference in pattern makes the orange really jump at you.

Lesson: at a distance, all you see is the overall (blended) color; close up, pattern can make a huge difference.

Interesting, eh?

It’s really neat that I haven’t even started the custom-dyed section yet and I’m already learning a lot. I’m totally psyched about beginning the study.

Speaking of which, you’ll notice (in the top photo) that the first section, monochrome in black, white, and gray, is coming up. The white bands show where each section was tied off. I’m smug: 13 yards of warp and everything lines up within three inches! I know ikat weavers do better, but I’m still feeling pretty darned good about my dye job.

And now that I’m back, the kittens are back to harassing me. Tigress, for example, loves to curl up in front of my monitor, but only if I’m trying to write a blog post or otherwise use the computer:

Tigress napping
Tigress napping

She’s so cute, though, that it’s hard to get up the motivation to disturb her. So I spend a lot of my computer time peering around a cat. 🙂

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: color study, design

March 20, 2014 by Tien Chiu

Home again

My workshop last weekend went well! It was a two-day workshop on the design process. It included quite a bit of information – processes and tools from getting from idea to finished product, guidelines for good design (both functional and visual), and an opportunity for instructor critique of designs and finished pieces. It also included a juror’s tour through the Fiber Celebration 2014 exhibit, looking at the strong and weak points of each design. I added quite a bit of material to my previous rendition of the workshop, and I think they improved the workshop a lot. The only thing I really should have done is charge a materials fee! With over 20 pages of double-sided handouts per student, photocopying got quite expensive. Something to keep in mind for next time!

Anyway, here is a photo of me with some of the workshop participants:

Photo of me with workshop attendees

I flew home on Monday, and immediately got to work on the color study. Work was pretty busy, but I put in a few hours on Tuesday and Wednesday, threading it up:

mostly-threaded loom
mostly-threaded loom

And this morning I got up at 5am and put in a three-hour marathon, during which I finished threading, sleying, and tying on:

warp, tied onto loom
warp, tied onto loom

I have a guild meeting tonight but am home for lunch and hope to do a bit more debugging before going back to work. It was a relatively simple threading – straight draw on eight shafts for each of three colors, plus another eight shafts for the white dividers between sections, plus another eight shafts for the selvedges. Eight shafts for the dividers and eight for selvages is overkill, but since I had plenty of shafts to spare, I decided to use them. (It’s amazing how difficult it is to use up a full forty shafts!) So I am hoping that not too much debugging will be needed.

I haven’t decided what liftplan to use yet. The advantage of threading each color on a different set of shafts is that I can control them independently, probably in eight-shaft satin to maximize possibilities for shading. The downside is that it gives me one more knob to keep track of (actually three more knobs, one for each color) in an already complicated study. I wish I could just settle on one possibility, and weave that on all sixteen color combinations. Unfortunately, I don’t know what I want to explore yet, so I need to keep my options open, even if it does complicate matters.

And the soap I made before leaving for Colorado was ready to unmold and cut! Here are photos of the unmolded soap and the cut bars:

unmolded soap
unmolded soap
soap, cut into bars
soap, cut into bars

It will need to cure for a few weeks before we can use it, but I’m thrilled nonetheless. It’s made from a mix of 50% palm oil and 50% coconut oil, and I find I prefer it to purchased soap. Usually Mike makes it, but he showed me how to do it this time, so either of us can make it in the future.

Amidst all this frenzied weaving and soaping activity, I still have some time to play games. Here, for example, is a game Tigress likes to play with me: Who Can Get Into Bed First?

Tigress wins!
Tigress wins!

As soon as I turn down the sheets to get into bed, she comes rocketing into the room to try to beat me to the bed. Of course she is much faster than me (it helps that she’s 40+ years younger 🙂 ), so she always wins. But I get my way in the end: I simply toss a cat toy off the side of the bed, whereupon she rockets off to grab the toy, and I can get into bed. A win for all involved!

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: color study

March 9, 2014 by Tien Chiu

The color study is on the loom!

I spent eight hours yesterday getting the color-study warp onto the loom. That is, of course, an excruciatingly long time to spend beaming on a single warp, but this was an extraordinarily complex warp, with four separate colorways that needed to be interspersed in the raddle and then beamed on together.

I started by putting the bouts into the raddle, one bout at a time. That meant leaving gaps for the other colors, which in turn meant a lot of counting. Now, I was a math major and am therefore incapable of doing simple things like counting and addition (“A solution exists and is unique. Don’t bother me with the details!”), so this took considerably longer than you might expect, checking and double-checking and correcting mistakes. But I eventually got all four colorways into the raddle:

warp with mixed colorways in raddle
warp with mixed colorways in raddle

Then it was time to tie onto the warp beam. Because my warping wheel doesn’t create end loops, I needed to gather the ends for each section, align them so the color changes matched, and tie them in a knot so they could be attached to the warp beam. Then I had to even out the tension across the entire warp.

Here’s what it looked at the beginning:

warp in process of being tied to the warp beam
warp in process of being tied to the warp beam

Looks like a tangled rat’s-nest, doesn’t it?

After an hour or two of fiddly adjustments, though, it looked a lot better:

 

tied-on warp, with even tension
tied-on warp, with even tension

It looks like the color changes are misaligned near the viewer, but that’s an optical illusion: they lined up nearly straight when viewed from the front.

I wound up using a triple trapeze to keep the warps from fouling on each other. My trapeze is a rod hung from the ceiling, so I just added two more rods:

trapeze with three rods
trapeze with three rods

Each of the colorways is on a separate rod, except for the white one which shares a rod with another colorway. As there were only 40 threads in the white colorway, that wasn’t much of an issue.

I was pretty smug about how the color changes lined up. Here is the warp beam near the end of the beaming process:

beamed-on warp
beamed-on warp

There is only about three inches of variation across the entire warp – not bad after 12 yards of winding-on!

I made a technological advance on this warp. A weaver named Ulrike Beck had written me an email after seeing my fine-threads article in a recent issue of Handwoven. Ulrike mentioned using acrylic tubes rather than wooden lease sticks, so I had to give that a try:

acrylic lease sticks
acrylic lease sticks

They are a dream! Unlike wooden lease sticks, they are perfectly smooth and perfectly round, so they just glide through the warp. And they are flexible enough to bend instead of breaking. I love them. So thank you, Ulrike!

(My new lease sticks are 1/2″ round tubes of clear acrylic – they have no holes, but as I tape together my lease sticks rather than fussing with strings through holes, that doesn’t bother me a bit.  I suppose you could drill holes if you wanted to, but tape is so much faster than string!)

The next step will be to thread the warp, but that may have to wait a week or so. I’m flying out to Colorado on Wednesday for Fiber Celebration 2014, where I will be jurying the show and teaching a workshop on the design process in craft. I’ve made a ton of changes to the workshop, and still need to write one handout and two presentations. So that will take priority, at least for today.

Meanwhile, here is Tigress, demonstrating on the blinds how she would “help” me beam the warp onto the loom. Somehow, this has not convinced me to let her into the weaving studio…

 

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: color study

February 25, 2014 by Tien Chiu

Tabby stripes and color extravaganza

Yesterday I devised a “tabby” draft – not plain weave, but a mix of 1-3 and 3-1 twills meant to mimic a tabby cat’s stripes. It’s not quite perfect – it appears as stripes on white rather than stripey bits of both colors – but it’s quite attractive, and I need to get the color study on the loom. So I wove a quick sample and then dove in:

in-progress view of tabby striped scarf
in-progress view of tabby striped scarf

I’m quite pleased with it – it’s even prettier in person than it is in the photo. And at the sett I’m using, I should have just enough for a 60″ scarf.

Not so pleasing is shaft #17, which has started floating again. I’ve sent an email to AVL asking for suggestions on how to fix it. They’ve been great at answering my support questions on a timely basis, so I’m hoping to get an answer back today. I’m really hoping it does not involve ordering extra parts – fortunately I live practically on top of AVL, but it would still mean delaying work on the scarf by two days.

Meanwhile, I have been making progress on winding the weft onto pirns:

freshly-wound weft bobbins
freshly-wound weft bobbins

I’m guessing I’m about halfway done. Each skein goes quickly, even though I have to wind each pirn twice. The paper pirns are wonderfully inexpensive to make, but they collapse when winding from a skein at high speed. So I am winding onto throwaway pirns and then re-winding onto a different pirn. The whole process takes about eight minutes per skein. There are 45 or so skeins, so winding them all will take about six hours.

Looking at the colors has been quite educational. I’ve generally worked with very saturated colors, like these:

Typical "Tien" colors!
Typical “Tien” colors!

But how could anyone not fall in love with colors like these?

beautiful muted colors
beautiful muted colors

Dyeing these muted skeins has made me take another look at color and it’s usage. I’m looking forward to weaving up the color study, and getting a chance to use these lovely muted colors.

And, finally, watch the hunter become the hunted in the wilds of our master bedroom, as Tigress pounces on a paper pirn, only to be stalked by Fritz.

 

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, dyeing, weaving Tagged With: color study

February 18, 2014 by Tien Chiu

All-weekend dye intensive

It took nearly 24 hours of work over the three-day weekend, but the warp and weft are dyed now! The warp alone took 12 hours to dye – mixing dye stocks, then stretching out four warp bouts, and mixing 48 colors for the sixteen sections of three colors each. I started before sunrise and finished just before sunset.

The weft, oddly, was easier – no fiddly painting, just mix up 45 colored dyebaths, dunk each skein in, and put into the electric roaster water bath to maintain the appropriate temperature. (I was using Cibacron F dyes, which like to be kept at 140 degrees for immersion dyeing.) Of course, I had to add the soda ash after 15 minutes and then rearrange the skeins every 10-15 minutes for an hour afterwards, but I could do 10-12 skeins at once, so it went fairly quickly.

And both warp and weft are gorgeous!

Here are the skeins hung up to dry:

drying skeins
drying skeins

Because the photo really doesn’t capture the beauty of the skeins in motion, here is a short video of the skeins swaying in the wind:

The warp was harder to capture because of its length, but I took photos of each section and arranged them together. Here is a composite showing each section, along with the color combination it’s meant to explore. (If you’re having trouble reading the labels, click to view the full size photo.)

dyed warp
dyed warp

There were a few sections where the color didn’t come out as expected, and one section where the dyes ran into each other, but I’m basically happy with it. In most cases the color change is crisp – the ties did a good job of resisting the dye – and it covers the color combinations that I wanted. If I were to do it again, I would mix up more concentrated dyestocks – I used dyestock at 1% strength, and really needed 2% to get deep dark colors. Nonetheless, I really like the way it came out!

I’m under a short deadline on two other projects right now (both due Thursday), so I probably won’t make much progress until next weekend. I also need to get my new-to-me rolling temples on the loom, and maybe weave some samples on the previous warp before cutting it off. But I expect to start getting the warp onto the loom before the end of next weekend. Stay tuned!

And, Tigress has been complaining that Fritz is getting all the attention, so here is a picture of Tigress playing peekaboo. (Both she and Fritz like crawling under the bed covers when they can – it’s very cute watching the lumps move around under the covers, especially with the other kitten pouncing on top.)

Tigress playing peekaboo under the covers
Tigress playing under the covers

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, dyeing, weaving Tagged With: color study

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